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My Impreza mistake



Darren S

ClioSport Club Member
Mud flaps next, I hate them. They're not even the same colour.

I thought the idea was to deflect the mud... they've just concealed it and its rusting behind the fixings to the arch. Now they need attention.
There's just a big pile of crap inside the bottom of the arch and kit, just daft.
Noooooooooooo!

They are a compulsory addition to Evos and Scoobies. Period.
 

Donny_Dog

ClioSport Club Member
  Jim's rejects
It's already got wind deflectors! Subaru ones n orl.

I'm making any excuse to drive it. I even went to @leeds_182 I was that desperate.
Probs should think about where I live + the time of year though.

IMG_20201011_172004.jpg


IMG_20201014_170410 (1).jpg


Given up on the spacer idea. I think it looks good enough now, without the flaps.

Got a new window switch coming and that's about it. Prob sell it.
 

Donny_Dog

ClioSport Club Member
  Jim's rejects
Do these rot as well as Evos then?

I don't think they are the same as the 'classic' but by no means immune from it. Luckily this has been undersealed, which I might get inspected/topped-up - if that is even a thing.
I was talking more about the state of the fields with all this wet weather and then the tractors re-joining the carriageway. Sometimes the tarmac isn't even visible around here.

Now I've got to wash it.... oh dear, what a shame.
 

adamlstr

ClioSport Club Member
Oh I see, country bumpkin. (y)

I've already called time at the bar for mine this year. Mostly because it's not here, and I'll probs not see it for another month.

What underseal is it? Hopefully not thick black s**t?
 

jameswrx

ClioSport Club Member
Do these rot as well as Evos then?

Nowhere near as bad. They tend to go on arches and the front panels under the rad on this year.

Evo’s always tends to look good on the outside and go on all the important structural areas of the chassis.

My mate has just bought a fresh import Evo 5 which is mint underneath, had it on the ramp the other day at work and it’s genuinely one of the best I’ve ever seen (even in pics online). I advised him to keep it at work (he owns the garage and loads of space) but it now lives outside at his house so will no doubt be able to be swept into a dustpan in next couple of years.
 

leeds_182

North Yorkshire & Humber
ClioSport Area Rep
Nowhere near as bad. They tend to go on arches and the front panels under the rad on this year.

Evo’s always tends to look good on the outside and go on all the important structural areas of the chassis.

My mate has just bought a fresh import Evo 5 which is mint underneath, had it on the ramp the other day at work and it’s genuinely one of the best I’ve ever seen (even in pics online). I advised him to keep it at work (he owns the garage and loads of space) but it now lives outside at his house so will no doubt be able to be swept into a dustpan in next couple of years.

If you get too precious about things you never enjoy them. I had my evo 6 6 months and 4 of them it was in the garage because winter.

pretty ridiculous when you think about it.
 

jameswrx

ClioSport Club Member
If you get too precious about things you never enjoy them. I had my evo 6 6 months and 4 of them it was in the garage because winter.

pretty ridiculous when you think about it.

I agree to some extent but the fact is it will be a rusty mess if you use an Evo that hasn’t been protected through our winter or leave it outside in our rain. There was nothing stopping you using it on nice days really. Or do you live up North and you’re fcuked for nice days?

I would say it’s more a case of if you want a car to use all year round, get a newer one that’s been undersealed. An Evo 5 is 23 years old now, it’s classic stuff really. Buying one specifically because it’s mint underneath and then leaving it outside just seems crazy to me as you’re paying a huge premium for a nice one. May as well get a welded up, re-sealed one and do that and save yourself £6k.

My V6 sti doesn’t come out in rain or snow on purpose anymore, I might get stuck using it in those scenarios as it still comes out in winter on nice days but I wouldn’t chose to use it. I certainly don’t purposely keep it off road over winter but I just pick n chose when to use it so it can still be used all year. The lack of use is more because I’ve got other shite blocking it in the garage these days lol.
 

Donny_Dog

ClioSport Club Member
  Jim's rejects
It's taken a while to go through the paperwork, but I've got 90% of the spec written. Pretty eyewatering what has been spent on this thing. But it shows, inside and out I guess.

Going to list it at the back end of this week, just having some stone chips resolved, some new Brembo decals & the headlights buffed, so it is looking fresh.
Not sure what to set the bar at, to be honest. Was thinking £10k, but any advice from former Impreza owners invited. I can't seem to find anything quite like this in previous searches.

I'm going to clear the garage out as well, just in case I change my mind................it does look unbelievably good.

Prez.jpg


Have a read......

MY 2001 Bugeye JDM WRX STi
404BHP - 350lbft torque
GH-GDB (JDM only) model code Rev.A 2001
Produced Aug 2000 to Aug 2001
1075 made on this code. 599 in blue (Trying to verify the Internet site that said this!)
02C Pearlescent Blue (WRC Blue Pearl)
Registered in the UK 16th January 2002 (Will have been a big money import back then)
RAC Trackstar tracker (fitted when it was imported - not active - info in owners pack)

MOT 30/9/21
Last Serviced 16/6/20 (Sheffield Subaru Service) - all fluids 10/50 Millers
2 keys (inc JDM key)
Full receipted folder of 99% of all the work + owners manuals etc.

EJ207 Engine (2.0 litre)
6 speed manual with front LSD
22b spoiler
Walbro 255 Fuel pump
Electric fold wing mirrors
Perrin engine bay dress kit
Perrin Aluminium cold air intake (in the wing)
Perrin turbo Blanket
Perrin fuel pressure regulator
Perrin Filter cover (PSP-INT-010)
Perrin Turbo inlet hose (PSP-INT-401RD)
Mishimoto coolant hose kit
Mishimoto racing thermostat
Mishimoto 1.3 bar radiator/expansion cap
Process West Top mount intercooler (Australian import)
Braided brake hoses & 5.1 Fluid
SC 42 Billet Turbo
Perrin 3 Port boost control solenoid (SC)
Scoobyclinic Aftermarket Radiator
Superpro Gear link support bush
Scoobyclinic ECUtek remap
NGK PFR7B plugs
SC/Competition clutch, anti judder disc & billet fly wheel (originally Exedy but upgraded)
CDF Racing Anti-roll bar and Front/Rear Drop-link kit
SCOOBYCLINIC GT Spec Gen 2 unequal length headers & Up Pipe (Both heat wrapped)
Heat wrapped SC 3" Down pipe
MeisterR Zeta CRD+ Coilovers + adjustment extensions
Carnatix fast road geometry and ride height set up (with print out)
Godspeed F & R Grooved discs & Kevlar pads
3" Cobra Exhaust (SCR complete exhaust system) with decat
Clifford G5 Concept 650Mk2 Thatcham security
Pioneer AVH-X2500BT Touch-screen Head-unit (Movies & BT audio)
Subaru wind deflectors
LED side lights
HID headlights (not chav)
3/4 Front plate
Carbon side markers
Rota Gravel ET44 18x8 5x100 Gold
4 x Matching Vredestein tyres
HT autos diffuser fitted
Undersealed by JR-Classics
Original Michelin space-saver + toolkit + coilover spanner
STi interior mats
STI Genome meters with centre console pods
- Boost
- Oil temp
- Oil pressure
- Defi-link controller
- Inline restrictor (to stop needle bounce)

Differences between this and a UK spec::

JDM / EU
=========
Redline 8000 / UK is 7500
Speedo 180km/h / 260km/h
Intercooler spray auto / UK is manual only
Indicator stalk right / left
Original (bhp) ps 280 / 265
280-290bhp on average but power is quoted at 276bhp
Original torque 373 / UK is 343
Gear ratios - 1st to 4th are identical. 5th and 6th is shorter on a JDM car.
Tinted rear windows
JDM STi have Intercooler water spray bottle in the engine bay and UK has it in the boot on drivers side.
No 'subaru' lettering on rear boot door
Brembo 4 Pot front brakes (Not Subaru stamped)
550 Pink injectors
Originally had a VF30 turbo
Wilder cams and heads are big port versions
Forged pistons on the JDM car
Rear window wiper on JDM only
Fusebox is in Japanese!
Electric folding mirrors
 
Last edited:

Donny_Dog

ClioSport Club Member
  Jim's rejects
The battery died, so did a headlight bulb.
£65 Lucas battery - didn't think that was bad.

To replace this bosh one - look at the STI battery holder, never noticed that. How sweet.

IMG_20201129_124604.jpg


Took the headlight unit out, to see what it all was - didn't look like your normal bulb setup.

IMG_20201129_130505.jpg


IMG_20201129_131922.jpg


IMG_20201129_132401.jpg


Never seen these types of bulbs before, presume this is what HID's are. Googled the part code for them and they were silly money from the USA.

Not sure if anyone knows if the JDM bugeyes came with HID's? Everything is in Japanese, just looks like someone has retrofitted modern lamps from Morimoto.

I found some alternatives for £25, but they have a different coloured erm... like stalk bit..... that runs alongside the bulb. What is that? The old ones were white but the new ones are brown.

IMG_20201206_143757.jpg


They work ok, maybe the hue or something from the lights is going to be different in the dark? not tested them in full darkness.

-------------------

A few weeks ago I had any paint issues remedied. The section where the mud flaps were, holes in the rear bumper plastic welded and painted.

IMG-20201019-WA0009.jpg


IMG-20201111-WA0010.jpg


Also noticed the boot floor was holding water - which means there is a leak into the boot I must find. The painter said, not to fully paint the boot in blue, as it was originally just like a primer. the car will look like it's had a rear end repair, which it hasn't - so he replicated the primer look. Looks OEM now.

IMG_20201011_155328.jpg


IMG-20201112-WA0015.jpg


Asked him to use the rotary on the headlights (pre-bulb issue). They've come up like new.

IMG_20201112_162302.jpg


Along with resolving the trapped rubbish from the mud flaps that had made the paint start to blister.
 

Donny_Dog

ClioSport Club Member
  Jim's rejects
before

IMG_20201004_161738.jpg


IMG-20201109-WA0007.jpg


After.
Had each arch done, just to be safe.



If anyone has any ideas on what product to use, to spray/coat the inner wings from the inside, let me know. I've seen these rot from the inside out.

There is what looks like, cavity wax all around the seams - it looks like rust on the camera (there is a bit as well). Cleaned it all up, goo and all - but want to spray some either convertor or wax oil or something in there.

IMG_20201129_133246.jpg
 
That looks good, especially with that lance thing. Someone recommended Dinitrol 312HS cavity wax.... is this better? I know fck all about this. Do you just spray it on the actual seams, or everywhere?
Not used the Dintrol stuff but @Touring_Rob swears by their gear

I've used the Dynax stuff on a few previous clios and it looks awful but definitely does the job of stopping corrosion. And it comes with a nice long straw so no messing about trying to wedge it into stupid spots
 

Donny_Dog

ClioSport Club Member
  Jim's rejects
I’d paint any rust with Hydrate 80, then coat with Elecrox zinc primer and some satin black. You can then seal it with Dynax UB.

I have primer and will get that Dynax stuff, but it's not an easy place to reach, to apply that hydrate 80. how do you apply it?
 

Donny_Dog

ClioSport Club Member
  Jim's rejects
Almost forgot, I sold my old phantom 3 drone and got a Mavic + an Osmo. Was messing about with it.

 

Touring_Rob

ClioSport Club Member
Not used the Dintrol stuff but @Touring_Rob swears by their gear

I've used the Dynax stuff on a few previous clios and it looks awful but definitely does the job of stopping corrosion. And it comes with a nice long straw so no messing about trying to wedge it into stupid spots

Im sure there are others which are just as good etc. I just have had good experiences with it. My old RS Turbo was coated with Dinitrol 10 years ago and is still perfect I'm just too lazy to find something better (y) Plus its not priced ridiculously like some of the other snake oil
 


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