N/S Driveshaft removal guide

[DannyR]

Need to replace passenger side driveshaft as CV joing is fucked.

Can comeone give a quick guide of how to do it including what needs to be taken off to get at it etc...

Also will the new driveshaft come with gaiters?

Cheers

 

[Fred@BTM]

loosen the driveshaft nut with the car on the floor

jack up

undo the 2 bolts holding the ball joint onto the wishbone

undo and remove the driveshaft nut

undo the 3 bolts holding the inner gaitor onto the box

little tap on the end of the drive shaft and pull the hub and strut off the driveshaft

bish bash bosh done

 

[DannyR]

Thanks Fred, anything you don't know

Surely the wheel needs to come off to undo the driveshaft nut though :s

Do I need to drain the oil first being passenger side? And will gaitors come ready ont he new drivehsaft or do I need to buy both new? Heard there a b*****d to put on?!


Cheers

 

[iimushroomzii]

Why would it need to come off? Just take center cap off

 

[Fred@BTM]

on a phs1 you might stuggle actually thinking about it, the centre of the wheel is tiny

yeah you have to drain the box oil, oops i forgot about that bit! LOL

 

[Mark One]

centre cap off. Massive breaker bar. It's a 30 or a 31mm socket iirc. Make sure you do it on the ground with the wheel on as you need to supply a lot of torque. Hayes manual says it's important that you don't use the footbrake to try and hold the wheel iirc and defo don't put it in gear. You can damage things with the amount of levverage required. Just leave it on the handbrake.

 

[iimushroomzii]

I've done mine before with the wheels off and car in the air, put two studs back in the hub and put a bar between them to hold it. Bodge, but it worked.

 

[The Boosh!]

Mega noob question... do i need to take that massive nut off on the end of the driveshaft to change my hub (the thing that the wheel nuts go in)

 

[Fred@BTM]

yup

 

[Fred@BTM]

i have been known to put a screw driver in the disc before LOL

oh yeah caliper needs to come off and cable tie it to the spring

 

[The Boosh!]

I have a feeling im going to break something big when i do this... Please make sure your inbox is free mate

 

[iimushroomzii]

Its easy Boosh! Have faith in yourself!

 

[DannyR]

Ph1 wheel hole is tiny so wheel has to be off. This nut was loose the other day so shouldn't be too bad getting it back off again.

Also what about the gaitors

So I have medium mechanical knowledge and can do a lot on the car, how long should this take me?

 

[Fred@BTM]

they should come with the driveshaft all assembled already fitted

just make note of which way round the metal plate is that holds on the gaitor to the box, i've seen people try and install that the wrong way round!

 

[DannyR]

Awesome, doesn't sound to bad then!

Just not looking forward to filling the gearbox up with oil!

 

[SBV116]

Gearbox oil stinks!!1 YUK!

 

[iimushroomzii]

Ph1 wheel hole is tiny so wheel has to be off. This nut was loose the other day so shouldn't be too bad getting it back off again.

Also what about the gaitors

So I have medium mechanical knowledge and can do a lot on the car, how long should this take me?

Gaitors will be on the replacement, I would say under and hour.

 

[DannyR]

Awesome, roll on next week for payday!

Cheers everyone!

 

[Fred@BTM]

oil refil on the box is easy, pull out the air filter and elbow and whack a bendy funnel in from above

 

[The Boosh!]

fred do i need ball joint remover to change the hub?

 

[davebem]

Yeah youll need a fork to tap into the space between the hub and the joint to separate it.

 

[Fred@BTM]

no, because you'll unbolt the ball joint from the wishbone, IE leave it connected to the hub, 10000000 times easier

 

[DannyR]

Do I need to drain the oil through the drain plug or just when I pop the shaft out the side of the box?

Also read somewhere once the shaft is out of the hub the shaft will just pull out, no 3 nuts?

Cheers, happy I don't need seperator too

 

[Mark One]

no, because you'll unbolt the ball joint from the wishbone, IE leave it connected to the hub, 10000000 times easier

massive ditto. Also I remove the top strut>hub bolt for refitting as I find it makes it easier.

edit: reply to above: There are 3 bolts holding it into the gearbox (so inboard). they are 13mm or 10mm iirc.

 

[DannyR]

Where are the three bolts, pics?

Don't wanna undo the top bolt on the hub/strut as its got the camber adjustment on it all done

 

[Mark One]

fair enough. I just find it saves fighting the suspesion/ARB so much when putting the ball joint back.

Don't have pics, but it's really obvious. They don't so much hold the shaft in as hold the gaitor sealing ring into the gearbox to contain the gearbox oil. Easy peasy

 

[DannyR]

Awesome, so can unbolt them and drain it through the side of the box yea?

Guessing not as much will come out too....

 

[Mark One]

Basically, ALL of the gearbox oil will come out regardless of how you drain it- . I'd say that's a pretty messy way to drain the GB oil tbh. I'd use the gearbox drain plug (same as sump plug but on the bottom of the GB - remove plastic tray). Drain it off nice and neatly.
Then start to tackle your 3 bolts on the inboard driveshaft gaitor.

 

[DannyR]

Thought would probably be best is it the same 8mm square bit. Plastic try has gone lol!

You say tackle lol, they were undone 2 months ago Id imagine, shoudl be easy right?! lol!

 

[Mark One]

yeah, it'll be easy. Access can sometimes be annoying depending on what tools you are using, but you'll get there.
Stop asking questions and get on with it you coulda had it done in a coupla hours.

 

[DannyR]

Done it today, up at 9, fitted all within 2 hours start to cleaning up.

WRONG PART! Rattled like a c**t on right hand bends.

The bit that fits up against the hub was too deep so the shaft wouldn't fit properly in the box.

We had it off again to double check etc and we found that problem.

Grease up the old CV joint and it seems to of made it a little better but still have the old one in. Motorspares where I buy from are usually quite good, they got an earful after they tried to keep fobbing me off and not wanting to give my money back!

I'll tyr again another day, gonna have to buy it genuine Renault I think Idea on price?

 

[David Laverick]

Hi

I am just about to take both of mine off tonight as the gator has gone on the O/S shaft and chucked oil everywhere.

I am taking my shafts to Andrew page and they are going to get them reconditioned for me at £90 a side.

12 months warranty aswel so aint so bad.

Don't really need them both doing but whilst up in the air and the box oil out I might aswel pay an extra £90 to save time and money in the long run I though, did the same with my Old 106 rallye!

 

[jack_davey]

Never done a CV on the clio, however I have had the driveshaft out as it popped out when I was removing the NS strut! Be prepared as it will piss oil everywhere!
There is a plastic blanking nut on the front of the gearbox, as far as I'm aware (with all the other cars I have worked on) you have the car level, and fill with oil until it begins to seep from the hole on the front where the plastic nut was.
Alternatively, measure out exactly 3.4 litres or whatever it is, cant remember!

 

[David Laverick]

Did mine very easy job well impressed with the recon job aswel that Andrew Page managed to get dont they did them in a day aswel which was class no stupid surcharge eather which was nice!