Need Clio 172 Phase 2 Tuning Help

[HelloImSam]

Hey all, this is my first post on the ClioSport forum so I hope I've posted in the right place!

I know this question must be asked over and over, but I couldn't seem to find an actual answer, plus I'm kind of on a budget so that's why I thought I'd start my own also.

I (will) have around £400 to spend, and I want to get at least some BHP gains from my Clio 172 Phase 2 (2002). Just wondering what is the best way to go about doing this considering my budget. As I'm new to Clio's and have no idea what's best to do to the car.

Would really appreciate the help! Thanks a lot, Sam.

(Please go easy on me for asking this!)

 

[Steven103]

You're right, it's been asked a million times I bet you've got the gist of the average response though - "RS Clios are already fettled a lot from the factory to make standard power, so buy another car or be prepared to spend £1000 per 10 BHP" etc.



RS tuner generic remap (it's a little electronic box. Buy one £100, buy a license £50, buy a map £30, sell the box -£100)
Panel filter in standard airbox (£40)
Proper service with OEM parts (engine oil £40, oil filter & washer £8, plugs £35, GBox oil £40)
Stainless steel exhaust if the original hasn't already fallen off & been replaced £200


Then you MIGHT JUST HAVE 172 genuine Brake Horse Powers if you put it on a trusted, reliable rolling road.


Quoted 169 BHP standard. Probably 160-165 BHP at the moment. Engine is actually an overdeveloped 1.8L so has quite restricted intake meaning can't get much more power at all without some way of getting much more air in, be it a new manifold (£1500? for an RS2) throttle bodies (they're what, £3000 or so including an ECU) or a turbo setup (I think DTM Cars on here do a drive-in-drive-out-a-week-later-with-230BHP service for a few thousand)

 

[HelloImSam]

You're right, it's been asked a million times I bet you've got the gist of the average response though - "RS Clios are already fettled a lot from the factory to make standard power, so buy another car or be prepared to spend £1000 per 10 BHP" etc.



RS tuner generic remap (it's a little electronic box. Buy one £100, buy a license £50, buy a map £30, sell the box -£100)
Panel filter in standard airbox (£40)
Proper service with OEM parts (engine oil £40, oil filter & washer £8, plugs £35, GBox oil £40)
Stainless steel exhaust if the original hasn't already fallen off & been replaced £200


Then you MIGHT JUST HAVE 172 genuine Brake Horse Powers if you put it on a trusted, reliable rolling road.


Quoted 169 BHP standard. Probably 160-165 BHP at the moment. Engine is actually an overdeveloped 1.8L so has quite restricted intake meaning can't get much more power at all without some way of getting much more air in, be it a new manifold (£1500? for an RS2) throttle bodies (they're what, £3000 or so including an ECU) or a turbo setup (I think DTM Cars on here do a drive-in-drive-out-a-week-later-with-230BHP service for a few thousand)

Thanks for the reply Steven! Well the car has just had engine oil and filter done (along with timing belt, and auxiliary belt) so that's something to tick off the list. Just went on the RS Tuner website and saw all the things you are talking about. If you wouldn't mind could you link the correct map for my 172 phase 2 (2002) please, as I don't want to spend money on the wrong one haha. Appreciate your help!

 

[Dan@SJM]

Tbh the main thing I see gains from is actually setting the timing belt up properly. I've done around 150 in the last year, and about 5 had the timing belt done correctly.

 

[Chi]

Strip everything out of it! !! Less weight = more speed .

 

[Steven103]

Tbh the main thing I see gains from is actually setting the timing belt up properly. I've done around 150 in the last year, and about 5 had the timing belt done correctly.

I notice a few traders on here have been pulling cambelt covers off and check timing for quite a few customers - roughly how long does this take/hence how much?

 

[MG cup]

I notice a few traders on here have been pulling cambelt covers off and check timing for quite a few customers - roughly how long does this take/hence how much?

An hours labour most people would be charging to check. Its another hour or 2 to correct it properly cleaning all faces plus new cam plugs, exhaust cam nut, inlet cam bolt and crank bolt on top if done properly.


You can always measure the specs of the two bolts to re use or if you have a meg 225 crank bolt its not a stretch bolt.

 

[Dan@SJM]

I charge £115 flat rate, this includes setting it correctly if it is incorrect/

 

[HelloImSam]

My Dad did my timing belt (he's done 100s previously on other cars) and the car was pulling like a train at knockhill, so I don't think that's a problem. Not sure what to do yet probably what Steven said above as I had already planned to get new exhaust etc. but hadn't heard of the RS Tuner remap till now. So I'll probably go along those lines.

Sam

 

[imprezaworks]

Rs tuner remap, £100 ish. Decent brakes, tyres and suspension. Unless spending big money, don't chase numbers.

 

[Chip-mk1]

My Dad did my timing belt (he's done 100s previously on other cars) and the car was pulling like a train at knockhill, so I don't think that's a problem. Not sure what to do yet probably what Steven said above as I had already planned to get new exhaust etc. but hadn't heard of the RS Tuner remap till now. So I'll probably go along those lines.

Sam

These cars are quite specific to how they are timed.

If he did it by marking with tipex marks where it was and then aimed to put the new belt back in the same place, then its probably slightly out.
If he used genuine renault tools, or a good aftermarket equivalent, then he will have had a much better chance.

 

[Chip-mk1]

PS

As others have said, its big bills to get decent gains from these engines.

Better to spend the money refreshing suspension and steering joints so it handles like new.

 

[HelloImSam]

The handling was also fantastic at knockhill. I haven't actually had the car that long, but the previous owner put lowering apex springs (-30mm) on it and I was running brand new Michelin PS3s, so I guess that would help too haha. The info you guys have provided has been great, I reckon I have some where to start now.

 

[Steven103]

The handling was also fantastic at knockhill... the previous owner put lowering apex springs (-30mm) on it and I was running brand new Michelin PS3s,

Have you been driving a wheel barrow around previously?!?!

Apex springs & standard shocks are one of the worst known combinations in terms of dealing with bumps. To be realistic though with McPherson strut suspension pretty much the biggest improvement you can make for the least money is to massively reduce the roll angle experienced in cornering to maintain a more consistent tyre contact patch (which is what cheap, stiff and crashy apex springs will do). Don't get me wrong I'm not saying there's nothing to be gained from £700 dampers I'm just saying it's well beyond the amount of money you currently wish to spend.


Getting a bit more camber than the standard car would also be a cheap way (camber bolts for the front are something like £25 a set, camber spacers on rear are similar money) of making a good improvement.

As others have said removing weight is free and improves literally everything, but this depends if it's a daily driver too.

Whiteline rear anti roll bar (£170 new, £140 used perhaps?) is also one of the biggest improvements per £. Forget the words "anti roll" - the real benefit is that it will make the rear of the car react more of the weight transfer. You could go on for hours about how and why this is important using all the correct terminology - but the upshot is that fitting a RARB allows the under-loaded rear tyres to do more work, and the overloaded front tyres to do less work = more outright "grip."


Overall though I think spending a few £ on very specific upgrades and just getting out there and having fun with a car that you're delighted with is a great way to go about this.

 

[HelloImSam]

Have you been driving a wheel barrow around previously?!?!

Apex springs & standard shocks are one of the worst known combinations in terms of dealing with bumps. To be realistic though with McPherson strut suspension pretty much the biggest improvement you can make for the least money is to massively reduce the roll angle experienced in cornering to maintain a more consistent tyre contact patch (which is what cheap, stiff and crashy apex springs will do). Don't get me wrong I'm not saying there's nothing to be gained from £700 dampers I'm just saying it's well beyond the amount of money you currently wish to spend.


Getting a bit more camber than the standard car would also be a cheap way (camber bolts for the front are something like £25 a set, camber spacers on rear are similar money) of making a good improvement.

As others have said removing weight is free and improves literally everything, but this depends if it's a daily driver too.

Whiteline rear anti roll bar (£170 new, £140 used perhaps?) is also one of the biggest improvements per £. Forget the words "anti roll" - the real benefit is that it will make the rear of the car react more of the weight transfer. You could go on for hours about how and why this is important using all the correct terminology - but the upshot is that fitting a RARB allows the under-loaded rear tyres to do more work, and the overloaded front tyres to do less work = more outright "grip."


Overall though I think spending a few £ on very specific upgrades and just getting out there and having fun with a car that you're delighted with is a great way to go about this.

Thanks for the help Steven, I appreciate it. To be honest we didn't realise it being too bumpy with the apex springs on it, but I guess that's because I didn't drive the car before they were fitted. The previous owner also gave me the original springs too, so I guess I could put them back on if we needed. Now got lots we can have a look at getting for the car soon, so thanks again guys!

Sam.