new 182 owner problems already

[crombie1]

evening all. iv only had my rb 182 since saturday and already its got issues. it revs fine but when i drive it it splutters like mad. if i hold the accelerator down for about 5 seconds it will splutter then burst into life but then does the same when i change gear, i sprayed wd40 on the coil pack plug and the 4 leads and it ran perfect after that. i then stopped it for about half hour then it was back to the spluttering. could this be faulty plugs,leads or coilpack ???:dapprove:

 

[Bluebeard]

If you've bought it from a dealer its probably wet plugs from them steam cleaning the engine bay.

Remove inlet, plugs and leads, dry them out, wd40 everything then put it all back together.

 

[crombie1]

i bought it private. does the inlet gasket need changed when i remove to take the plugs out ?

 

[Bluebeard]

Ideally yeah but as long as you don't destroy it don't worry.

Has the engine bay been cleaned at all? If its still filthy dirty then chances are something (Plugs/leads/coilpack) will need replacing rather than just water ingress.

 

[crombie1]

its pretty clean tbh so it may well of been cleaned. i see new coilpacks on ebay for around £30. the car has a cliosport.net sticker on the rear window. is there anyway of finding out if a previous owner is on here ?

 

[Bluebeard]

type the reg into the search bar at the top.

Failing that, start a thread in clio discussion.

 

[crombie1]

i tried the reg but no luck. but ill try cleaning the plugs and see how i get on

 

[domsclio182]

Need to checks ht leads,plugs,and coil pack,could well be the map sensor.Best to get it on a code reader at Renault or a specialist,save time in the long run.

 

[crombie1]

i forgot to say the engine light is on. i bought a digital code reader which should be here anyday. would a faulty coilpack make the eml come on ?. i assumed it was on because of the decat

 

[Dan_172cup]

Mine did that. It was a crank shaft sensor.

Proper throws you follow and that but when it fills like it

 

[domsclio182]

You need to get it on proper Renault diagnostics mate,universal code readers will only tell you so much and may even lead you to change things that are not the problem.

 

[crombie1]

i changed the plugs today and still no luck. im going to order a coilpack and new ht leads

 

[crombie1]

the car idles fine and revs fine. and it drives fine for a couple of hundred metres then it starts this

 

[banderson]

I'd place my bet on a lambda sensor....Maybe lol

 

[CaptainFail]

Damp HT leads caused my car to do this

 

[crombie1]

iv sprayed the leads with wd40. iv now ordered a new set and a coilpack. this is the reason i got rid of my astra gsi. i knew i should of went for a type r

 

[Bluebeard]

iv sprayed the leads with wd40. iv now ordered a new set and a coilpack. this is the reason i got rid of my astra gsi. i knew i should of went for a type r

I'm not sure you understand whats involved in owning a mass produced cheap french hatchback.

:S

 

[crombie1]

im starting to understand now. expect to see it in for sale soon

 

[Bluebeard]

Then you'll buy a civic, moan about how un-involved the drive is then come back to a clio.

I did...

Clio, impreza, clio, evo, clio, m3, clio, impreza rx8 and now clio again! lol.

 

[Gally]

With 8000 other cars inbetween!

The Jag Sov being my favourite

 

[Bluebeard]

I forgot about that. Uber rare wagon that was! 6.0 V12 of pure WIN!

 

[crombie1]

im impreza evo type r type r again astra gsi clio. i sold the astra as it did nothing but splutter and misfire lol

 

[Bluebeard]

Just stick with the clio, trust me! Get it running right, do a track day and see why we all keep coming back! lol.

 

[Gally]

I forgot about that. Uber rare wagon that was! 6.0 V12 of pure WIN!

As soon as I seen that I thought "divorce".

Oh and lest we forget "the truck"!

 

[Bluebeard]

The truck was her least favourite I think. Or the Evo. She thought the Evo looked like a transformer and said I looked like a hillbilly in the truck! lol.

(Being tubby pale and ginger didn't help me there tbh)

 

[Gally]

Fpmsl! <3

 

[crombie1]

i disconected the cts and it ran much better. so i fitted a new 1 and its doing the same again

 

[crombie1]

iv been working on this all day. it splutters/misfires up to around 3.5k then after that its clear in every gear if i dont let the revs drop but as soon as it drops bellow 3.5 it starts it again. its like its not getting fuel. i had the fuel filter out and it was clean. could it be a injector problem? or should i just leave it till the coilpack and leads come lol

 

[KevF182]

I'm no expert on clios but... Doub't very much its an injector problem. See how the new coil does, then look at crank or MAP sensor. An earlier post said that getting a propper code reader would save money long run... I agree with that, but would would have to be a specialist for me.

If the rest of the car is good condition, don't give up on it, you'll not get much money for it!

 

[Dan_172cup]

That's deffo a crankshaft sensor mate. But up to you if you want to carry on chucking could packs at it etc.

Make sure when you do order your crankshaft sensor you order the modified wiring 2.

Dan

 

[crombie1]

is the crankshaft sensor easy to change ? how much are they. iv already ordered the coilpack and leads

 

[Gaz_]

iv been working on this all day. it splutters/misfires up to around 3.5k then after that its clear in every gear if i dont let the revs drop but as soon as it drops bellow 3.5 it starts it again. its like its not getting fuel. i had the fuel filter out and it was clean. could it be a injector problem? or should i just leave it till the coilpack and leads come lol

were did you find it......?

I'd put my money on lambda, or possibly map sensor.

 

[crombie1]

in the tank ? i assume thats the only fuel filter as i couldnt see a in line filter ? i maybe wrong. should i replace the lambda, map and crank sensor all together or just 1 at a time ?

 

[Gaz_]

Replace one at a time fella, the filter one was a test, as its in the tank

I had similar issue years ago and mine was lambda related. Go genuine.

 

[crombie1]

that was the first place i looked lol. ill order a new lambda tomorro. any idea how much they are ?

 

[Addicted]

wrongpost

 

[crombie1]

i just fitted a genuine crankshaft sensor and modified wiring and its still the same. it feels as if its not getting enough fuel but its fine for the first mile or so before it starts its missing but if i keep the accelerator down its as if the whole engine shuts down then after about 5 seconds it bursts into life and if i keep the revs up its fine until i slow down.

 

[is1]

Here's one from someone who, admittedly, knows very little about mechanics, have you disconnected or is the acoustic valve disconnected?
A guy on Clio Trophy suddenly had a badly running Clio Trophy (lacking power, a bit moody) and he pretty much changed/cleaned everything he could think of.
He had a Renault tech look at it who explained to him that the acoustic valve had been disconnected. People do this to get more noise as the perceived view is that it is only there as a noise restrictor. He was told otherwise by the Renault tech who explained it was there to regulate air into the engine.
Apparently the car was fine after reconnecting it.

 

[crombie1]

what is that and where is it located ?

 

[is1]

Here's the extract from his post. I hope he won't mind. It's anonymous anyway.
Some people might be surprised by this. I have always said, leave the cars alone.

"Eventually gave up with the fault finding for the slight lack of response and power from the trophy myself so I handed it over to a Renault sport specialist who plugged it into the laptop. The first piece of software did not show up with any results which I was not surprised about as no dash board SERV lights have ever been present, however the second tests he ran with another laptop brought back a fault.

The fault was the acoustic valve !!! He opened the bonnet to find I had removed the acoustic valve. I did this a couple of months back when trying to fault find myself and came across the post on this topic about the valve. When I removed the valve I noticed no change other than a louder noise so just left it out. I told the guy this and he said this is a very common problem, either the acoustic valve stops working (mine stopped working and explains the increased noise level when the problem occurred) or people remove them. He then went on the explain the importance of the valve which is not mentioned at all in the acoustic valve topic on here.

On here people have said the valve is only there to meet EU noise regulations and that's why i happily removed it. However this is only partly right ! The valve is in place to limit air flow to the engine, at some points the valve will be completely shut and air can only enter from the other small intake. The valve works in accordance to the ECU program within the vehicle. For example when accelerating the engines ECU program will injected the correct amount of fuel and control the amount of air intake by the acoustic valve for the perfect mix. However with this valve missing/not functioning properly the amount of air being drawn in by the engine is much greater than the ECU had determined and therefore an incorrect mix of fuel and air occurs. This in turn causes; slight lack in power, engine response and less torque.

He also said when accelerating hard from a low rev range the 182's acoustic valve shuts completely. This not only keeps the induction noises quieter but also increases the torque produced due to the result of restricted air flow.

The only way removing the acoustic valve can be beneficial is if you have a good remap that is designed for the larger amounts of air flow. So every 182 owner who has removed their acoustic valve and still has the standard map, if you want better performance put it back on! Also I think this should be brought up on the acoustic valve post as this was not explain and people do not know."