Oil usage normal amount

[Olivertrain1996]

Hi I have recently bought a 182 and love it, however I have noticed on idle it seems a little bit lumpy but fine when you give throttle input.

I have also noticed that every 500 miles it’s doing half a litre. Don’t get me wrong I expect it to use some, but it seems to be abit excessive. The car does not smoke until your in the higher rpm as in 5500 plus it doesn’t smoke to the point where u can see it coming out the exhaust but there is slight blue haze around the rear.

My questions are:
A) is this normal
B) is there anything that is common to cause this wear? Valves? Piston rings? Etc

I will happily do the work to the car but I need to obviously have some understanding of what can cause this issue or if it’s nornal and to put up with it

 

[JB21]

500ml in 500 miles in the F4R isn't really normal no. Mine never used a drop even on track.

 

[DrR]

Neither of mine used any oil at all.

 

[JB21]

Try and run the car on Shell V power for a couple of months as it can clean up the engine and intake valves. My TFSI was using 500ml/500 miles but since switching to V power consumption has reduced dramatically.

 

[Daz...]

I’ve never had to top mine up in between oil changes

 

[Olivertrain1996]

Bugger... and I’m running she’ll v-power

 

[Olivertrain1996]

So basically then I need to rebuild it ? ok challenger excepted what performance enhancements can be done while in the engine obviously port and polishing the head is a must

 

[Olivertrain1996]

Any ideas on the idling lumpy? Anything obvious to look out for

 

[JB21]

Be cheaper just to get rid and buy another?

 

[Martin_172]

lumpy idle is normal. none of mine have used a drop other than my ph1 which used to use about a litre every few thousand miles, never done it any harm infact it was probably the fastest one I had lol.

Renault wont entertain it unless its using more than a litre per 1000 miles for warranty work

 

[STEVE.M]

Conduct a compression test.

As long as they are even, with a decent reading & the car drives well, I`d just keep topping up the oil as required.

 

[Coops Mk1]

As above, comp test it and if that's okay just keep topping up. Mines just starting to use half a litre or so between oil/filter services now which I do every 6k. 192k on original engine though so think it's entitled to drink a little now!lol!

 

[Olivertrain1996]

Hi when you say warranty? Do the engines have lifetime warranty then? Don’t understand how a manufacture would give warranty? I am in the motor trade and carrying out a compression test tomorrow hot+cold both wet+dry I’m going use and enjoy it and when it comes to it I will rebuild it when it gets worse.

I have all the resources to do it all in the space of 7 hours including head skimmed so I’m not fussed just wanted to see if it’s normal consumption as I did hear they breathed abit heavy I believe it could be bottom end due to the crank case breather hose being slightly wet with oil wich is feeding back into the throttle body which is also rather wet with oil.

 

[DrR]

No, they just mean while it’s under warranty it’s acceptable to use a litre of oil every thousand miles.

 

[JamesBryan]

I'd pay to see you strip, skim and rebuild in 7 hours haha.

 

[Slamz]

Yea 7 hours isn't gonna happen. Especially as it breathing heavy points to rings, so you're gonna have to refresh the short block.

 

[Olivertrain1996]

I'd pay to see you strip, skim and rebuild in 7 hours haha.

U pay for the rebuild then

 

[JamesBryan]

U pay for the rebuild then

It'll take you that long to do the belts and pulleys if it's your first one. Well unless the engine is out then it's about 30 mins.

 

[Olivertrain1996]

First Clio 182 I’ve owned not worked on mate.

 

[JamesBryan]

You'll need the timing tools from Renault, about £140 but can be had used for £100 ish. Don't bother with the ebay versions.

Need to familiarise yourself with the floating pulley setup on these. The workshop manual is very handy, it's actually an easy process to follow if you follow it to the book, it's just the access to various parts is a nightmare with the engine in the car.

 

[STEVE.M]

First Clio 182 I’ve owned not worked on mate.

Working on 15 year old cars is not the same as working on one`s that have never turned a wheel on factory courses.

 

[RIC172]

My old 182 used to use oil as regularly as that too. I just kept topping it up and it ran fine, until one day it just popped (at 80k miles). Trouble is, these cars are getting on a bit now and you don't know how it's been treated in its past life.

 

[White16valver]

IIRC my old valver used to do 1 litre per 1000 miles, lol.

 

[Coops Mk1]

IIRC my old valver used to do 1 litre per 1000 miles, lol.

the F7's do use oil, even had a sticker in the window to say top up every 1000 miles, lol!

 

[davo172]

Had mine 12 years from new and never put any oil in it between changes.

 

[Olivertrain1996]

Ok so did a compression test today I have 150-160 between cylinders 1,2 and 3 but cylinder 4 was at 60psi
After a wet test I found that cylinder 6 rose to 100.... time for a rebuild.

 

[Coops Mk1]

Ooft that's low on all and knackered on one

 

[Olivertrain1996]

ok then wel im going to rebuild it all going to buy a second hand block and just run this engine into the ground until its rebuilt.

 

[Olivertrain1996]

when buying a second hand engine what is the differences between the 172 and 182 what's the engine code difference I believe it is end of the engine code.
can someone please just clarify this for me

 

[Krarl]

No differences between the 172 and 182 engines besides the top inlet breather

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

 

[JamesBryan]

Ph1 172 engine is 736 and the Ph2 172/182 are 738.

Ph1 has bigger ports on the head and better crank, apart from that they're pretty much all the same.

 

[Olivertrain1996]

ok thanks gents I'm going to build the block up on an engine stand and completely start again effectively while I run this other engine into the ground.
if anyone knows what the weak spots are in the 182 engines like arp rod bolts etc and of any stronger things to ensure durability while I'm there that would be appreciated. im not looking to spend thousands and im not wanting forged pistons or rods as that would push the bill up to much.
I just want to know the weaker area of the engines.
but I would like to uprate the Camshafts while in there, where is the best place to get them (links) and what else is required to company the camshafts
I also will do my own head work, port and polish. and I will also rehone the cylinders.(if there not to damaged otherwise will re bore etc)
I also wondered about the dephaser and belt, will fit a new one but Where is best to get one that's decent quality and reasonably priced kit.
plus lightened flywheel/clutch kit

 

[JamesBryan]

ARP rod bolts are worth doing and if you like to rev the nuts off it then Supertech or Sirius valves are worth looking at.

 

[Olivertrain1996]

What is better?

 

[JamesBryan]

What is better?

Probably stick with Supertechs. Ktec used to sell the others, but i can't see them listed now.

 

[Olivertrain1996]

Probably stick with Supertechs. Ktec used to sell the others, but i can't see them listed now.

Ok and lightened flywheel clutch

 

[JamesBryan]

Ok and lightened flywheel clutch

If you really want one, then TTV do them. The standard one is only 5kg though so not mega heavy.

OEM Valeo clutch is fine.

 

[Olivertrain1996]

Do you know of anyone selling a 182 engine. Cheap as I plan to rip it to shreads and rebuild it Aslong as nothing’s bent or holes in pistons ?

 

[STEVE.M]

Ph1 172 engine is 736 and the Ph2 172/182 are 738.

Ph1 has bigger ports on the head and better crank, apart from that they're pretty much all the same.

I thought you knew better.

CB0M ph1 172 is a 730.

CB1C ph1 172 is a 732.

CB1N ph2 & Cup 172 is a 736

CB22 182`s are 738.

 

[JamesBryan]

I thought you knew better.

CB0M ph1 172 is a 730.

CB1C ph1 172 is a 732.

CB1N ph2 & Cup 172 is a 736

CB22 182`s are 738.

I was doing it from memory, clearly it isn't very good.