oils for running in forged engine

[w33 brl]

hi lads

im needing a little help with my oils for running in my forged block

i have millers running in oil to start and millers 5-40 fully syn for once its finished, but cant seem to find 5-40 semi syn oil on opie oils for second stage of running in

It there another weight of oil i can use? if so what? hoping to get my order put over the weekend ready for the car beening built next week

Cheers Wayne

 

[LukeC]

5w40 semi synthetic is what you put in Diesels usually lol, stick to fully synthetic

 

[w33 brl]

5w40 semi synthetic is what you put in Diesels usually lol, stick to fully synthetic

yeah noticed its for diesels but was told to use running in oil then semi syn for 500 miles then fully syn after

 

[LukeC]

yeah noticed its for diesels but was told to use running in oil then semi syn for 500 miles then fully syn after

Can't see it making a massive difference, it's more about the oils viscosity than the blend when it comes to protecting the engine, which the running in oil should do fine

 

[w33 brl]

Can't see it making a massive difference, it's more about the oils viscosity than the blend when it comes to protecting the engine, which the running in oil should do fine

I'm not sure its my first engine ill be running in so want to make sure

 

[LukeC]

I'm not sure its my first engine ill be running in so want to make sure

Fully synthetic is infinitely better than semi, what might have been misinterpreted is that semi synthetic is thicker than fully synthetic, when it's actually the 10w-40 5w-40 ratings etc, can't see why you'd put semi in first, give the components the best protection out the box and go with fully synthetic

 

[Dan@SJM]

Just use cheap and nasty asda/tesco stuff.

 

[Dr HMS Derv Destroyer]

Although mines a dci engine , I've ran mine and other cArs in on cheap mineral oil for 300 odd miles. Not had a problem.
£12 for 5L , I had two lots on my dci , one to run upto temp and flush all the assembly lube out and the second lot for running in

cheap stuff will be fine! That running in oil is bloody expensive stuff for what it is.

 

[w33 brl]

Just use cheap and nasty asda/tesco stuff.

What cheap semi syn? What weight tho?

Although mines a dci engine , I've ran mine and other cArs in on cheap mineral oil for 300 odd miles. Not had a problem.
£12 for 5L , I had two lots on my dci , one to run upto temp and flush all the assembly lube out and the second lot for running in

cheap stuff will be fine! That running in oil is bloody expensive stuff for what it is.

I've already got my running in oil it's the second a lot of running in I'm needing

 

[Jack-C]

Cheap mineral oil first. Any brand, cheaper the better.

Then drop it out and put some fully synthetic in. It will be fine.

 

[LukeC]

Just use cheap and nasty asda/tesco stuff.

Lol, badly recycled oil, it's still usuable if you do changes every say 4k miles

 

[w33 brl]

Cheap mineral oil first. Any brand, cheaper the better.

Then drop it out and put some fully synthetic in. It will be fine.

cant understand how cheaper is better?

im wanting to do it correct as im no having to spent more money on an engine if it goes wrong for the sake of £40 in oil

 

[Dan@SJM]

Lol, badly recycled oil, it's still usuable if you do changes every say 4k miles

I'm on about for running in Ffs.

 

[bloke]

cant understand how cheaper is better?

im wanting to do it correct as im no having to spent more money on an engine if it goes wrong for the sake of £40 in oil

use £40 oil and it will go wrong

you need an oil without loads of additives etc as you need the rings/bores to bed in. quality slippy oils stop this happening and you can end up with glazed bores.

this is worth a quick read...http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[Dan@SJM]

And why spend £40 on oil that you'll drop after 20 miles?

I'd sooner spend £40 on 4Lots of oil, and change it:
First start/run up to temp.
After 25 miles
After 100 miles
After 500 miles

Then fill with your decent oil.

 

[Bluebeard]

OP, Surely you'd be better off asking the person that's building the engine??

 

[marinemackay2003]

And why spend £40 on oil that you'll drop after 20 miles?

I'd sooner spend £40 on 4Lots of oil, and change it:
First start/run up to temp.
After 25 miles
After 100 miles
After 500 miles

Then fill with your decent oil.

i am with dan on this one, cheap and nasty and change regular

i will be running gash oil for first start ups, checking it all works ect

change before mapping, then drive back home 100 -250 miles

then a change to the best i can afford


why are you not face down in sick dan? happy birthday :drunk:

 

[Dan@SJM]

i am with dan on this one, cheap and nasty and change regular

i will be running gash oil for first start ups, checking it all works ect

change before mapping, then drive back home 100 -250 miles

then a change to the best i can afford


why are you not face down in sick dan? happy birthday :drunk:

Haha, thanks mate!

I'm tea total however the future brother-Inlaw managed to do exactly that. Then Decided to act up. Except he made the **** up of doing it when the house was occupied by a few ex-para's. Safe to say he was put back in his place.

 

[marinemackay2003]

lots of hand thrusting and chest poking lol :clap:

 

[w33 brl]

OP, Surely you'd be better off asking the person that's building the engine??

think thats gona have to be the best way mate

 

[Andy93]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I always understood that increased friction (ie s**t oil from tesco) is what you want for a few hundred miles to run the engine in?

 

[Dan@SJM]

Correct.

 

[scotty2hotty81]

A quick search

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...resh-build-engine&highlight=Bedding+in+engine

as people have said, cheapest oil possible from the start as you want the engine to wear/bed in and then when final mapping comes use the best stuff you can afford.