ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

Photography Chat and Questions Thread



Their website is down, unsurprisingly. As I understand it most of the high value Nikon/Canon/Olympus/Sony/Panasonic etc stuff will just go back. The only stuff they will be selling cheap is things like their own branded accessories.

All confirmed now anyhow, no vouchers or returns.
 
  Focus ST-3
Their website is down, unsurprisingly. As I understand it most of the high value Nikon/Canon/Olympus/Sony/Panasonic etc stuff will just go back. The only stuff they will be selling cheap is things like their own branded accessories.

All confirmed now anyhow, no vouchers or returns.

Website is live for me
 
  RIP Dan
A real shame, I am annoyed that I got a £45 voucher 2 weeks ago and can't get it now but it seems paltry compared to not having a job.
 
  Mental 172 Cup
I went to Autosport today at the Birmingham NEC, loads of cameras and loads of gear floating around, one thing that caught my eye was a tripod, bolted to the tripod was an arm on a pivot and on one end was a load of weights, on the other end was the camera. What is the idea behind this? He was taking photos low down of a Porsche..

Thanks
 

JamesBryan

ClioSport Club Member
I went to Autosport today at the Birmingham NEC, loads of cameras and loads of gear floating around, one thing that caught my eye was a tripod, bolted to the tripod was an arm on a pivot and on one end was a load of weights, on the other end was the camera. What is the idea behind this? He was taking photos low down of a Porsche..

Thanks

Sounds more like he was videoing, using a boom rig thing.

Like this?
proaim-hd-floor-dolly-for-heavy-duty-22ft-octagonal-jib-crane-system-film-video-camera-equipment.gif
 
Picked up my D7000 for the first time in months the other night. Tried to autofocus about 8m away in the dark, and it would have none of it. Seems pretty strange considering the D40 would.
 
  Italian 3.2 V6
Guys little advice..

Shooting a couple cars over Hartside this sat, gona be using my 50mm 1.8 lens. Any advice.

When I got this shot (iirc) it was on iso 400, f2.5, shutter speed to suit lighting. 50mm f1.8 lens..
8352667077_fa9a4aa6d6_z.jpg

135i @ Hartside by PSJHodgson, on Flickr

I was thinking iso400 f5.6?
 
Guys little advice..

Shooting a couple cars over Hartside this sat, gona be using my 50mm 1.8 lens. Any advice.

When I got this shot (iirc) it was on iso 400, f2.5, shutter speed to suit lighting. 50mm f1.8 lens..
8352667077_fa9a4aa6d6_z.jpg

135i @ Hartside by PSJHodgson, on Flickr

I was thinking iso400 f5.6?

If you're shooting cars, I would be in S priority mode, and have a lowish shutter speed to capture the movement in the car. That shot above just looks like the car is parked on the road, I assume it was in fact mid drift? If it was, you can't tell that by the way youve captured it.
 
  Focus ST-3
Being a newb to photography this is probably a pretty stupid question... but Im looking at different flash options..

Am I right in thinking that if I have a flash on my camera and another 1 or 2 flashes located around the subject, set in slave mode, that they will trigger when they see the flash on the camera body?

And if I had a 4 channel wireless flash trigger, I could have multiple flashes set up around the subject that would all trigger when a picture is taken?

Are these two thing not pretty similar? is there any advantage doing it one way or the other?

again, sorry if this is a stupid question..


Nobody? Or is that much of a dumb question?
 
A shutter speed slower than say 1/250th of a second should capture the sense of motion.

It all depends on how the car is travelling in relation to you. In the shot above, the car won't be moving much in the frame during the shot, so I personally would be going down to 1/60th or lower to really get some movement.

And always have the ISO as low as possible UNLESS it's too dark.
 
A 70-200 F2.8 came through the post today, feck me its heavy! Will be looking forward to field testing this bad boy!
 
  Italian 3.2 V6
Thank you to those who gave me advice for today.

Heres the best one from this morning, chuffed with it Barr the quality (due to processing on iPad app lol)
8372170011_1af36d4187_z.jpg

6MPS Drift by PSJHodgson, on Flickr

Piers.
 
Better! The next thing to watch out for is the composition. Avoid having the car right in the centre of the frame, remember the rule of thirds :)
 
  Italian 3.2 V6
Right, il sort that out next time.. No doubt be doing this again soon. Thanks Dan.

Also took a couple of landscape pics with my 50mm f1.8
8373244484_0059d8089b_z.jpg

Hartside by PSJHodgson, on Flickr

Could someone recomend me a good lens to invest in for these shots. Must be a Canon lens and i dont mind buying second hand. Budget £200-300.

Piers.
 
  Mental 172 Cup
Manfrotto have a good write up I believe.. I bought mine in Dubai. Searched in loads of shops till I found a decent made heavy and sturdy one.. Was pretty cheap too. Was well chuffed..
 
Manfrotto are certainly very good.
I have a Slikk 740 something or other.
Cost about £30 and has been awesome for me with a 550D and a variety of different, often quite bulky, Canon lens doing long exposure night shots.

Another random question.
Shooting rivers/streams/falls during the day trying to get a sense of the water not really moving.
Like Piers' shots in the Random Photo thread today.
Just wondering what settings people use for these?
Obviously a tripod, perhaps 0.4, F10 or so and ISO100?
 
Lowest ISO possible.

Ideally using an ND filter. If not, then use the smallest aperture possible to get the longest shutter speed possible.

If it's in the day, you'll still probably end up with a relatively fast shutter speed, if you want it really long, then you need an ND.
 
I'm not necessarily looking for really long, have some welding glass hidden away for that, but a bit of a 'freeze' of the water would be nice.
 
I'm not necessarily looking for really long, have some welding glass hidden away for that, but a bit of a 'freeze' of the water would be nice.

I'm confused, are you trying to freeze the movement of the water or blur it? Faster shutter speed = frozen water, slower shutter speed = blurry water.
 
I'm basically going for something like those Piers posted yesterday.
Maybe 0.3 or 0.4 seconds with a tripod in normal/low daylight conditions rather than my usual longish exposures done at night.
Just wondering what settings to go for to achieve that effect without using ND filters and if it is possible to do so.
 

Ay Ay Ron

ClioSport Club Member
I managed to get a few long exposures of the sea the other day without a filter. I had ISO at 100, f18 I think and the shutter was a few seconds. Done the job.
I'll upload them when back home and double check the settings.
 
  Focus ST-3
I'm looking to get a bag for my gear I'm slowly accumulating as I am not enjoying carrying several small bags/cases.

I want it to be able to carry the body and a few lenses/couple + Flash, and be able to carry a tripod. Carrying a laptop isn't essential. And i would like it to look remotely nice.

I have sort of narrowed it down to the Lowepro fastpack 250 AW - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000YIYQ30/?tag=cliospnet01-21

And the Fancier KingKong 60 - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004XGB9XO/?tag=cliospnet01-21

Both are about the same price and seem to offer the same storage. Does anyone have any experience of either? I am swaying towards the Fancier as it looks better, but I have heard good things about Lowepro..
 

JamesBryan

ClioSport Club Member
I have the Fastpack 250.

Great bag for the money! Holds my 5D MK2 with battery grip and my 100-400mm attached, and there's still space for 2-3 lenses and a flash.

Also has a space in the back for a 17" laptop.
 
  Italian 3.2 V6
Bit of advice on format..

Iv only ever used JPEG on my 1000D, should I be using Raw? Would it improve images like these?
8434725493_9a594d8f39_z.jpg

The lakes by PSJHodgson, on Flickr

Or is it pointless as I don't have access to a PC or mac? I only use my iPad for processing etc (snapseed).

Cheers.
 

TheEvilGiraffe

South East - Essex
ClioSport Area Rep
The advantage of RAW over jpeg is that you can edit so much more later on. The camera literally takes a 'raw' exposure and then compresses & adjusts to jpeg so data is lost.

Depends entirely on what you want to do with your images...

I shoot only RAW now unless it's time-lapse stuff and I need more than 300 shots (fills the 8GB card up :eek: ). Just saves the hassle of the 'oh I wish I'd done xxx then...'. Obviously it's not miracle proof ;) but once the data's gone (compression) it's gone.
 


Top