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Photography Chat and Questions Thread
- Thread starter Luke.
- Start date
That would be my guess mate. Because if you lit them with a flash the background wouldn't be exposed at all for that short of an exposure. To capture the sky like that, you're looking at a slightly longer exposure in the pitch black from my experience.
I mean I could be wrong. By far, i'm not the most experience toggy on here, but that's what I'd say from my short experiences light painting.
Best thing to do, is practice. Get out there with your tripod and remote shutter release and take a few tester shots of yourself.
R26
That shot was one exposure. Shooting with a flash allows for fast shutter speeds, hence why everything is very dark except them (lit with the flash) and the sunset background which has some light.
Flashing lighting basics.
Flashing lighting basics.
riz
ClioSport Club Member
Jaguar XFR
What's a good tripod under £80? I did have a redsnapper one but i didn't use it and it was a tad heavy and i sold it due to non use. It was really well put together though.
Gorillapods are a waste of space for an slr.
Anything slightly lighter? I can't really justify Carbon Fibre as I won't use it much.
Gorillapods are a waste of space for an slr.
Anything slightly lighter? I can't really justify Carbon Fibre as I won't use it much.
Another new website post....
I've pretty much not slept since I woke up on Friday to get this completed over the weekend. It's my new website design. Completely bespoke and built by me with nothing more than Photoshop and CSS.
No frameworks or WordPress. In fact, I did this redesign because WordPress was so DAMN slow, even with compression modifications.
I'd love to hear your feedback - good and bad!
http://www.tomcash.co.uk/
I've pretty much not slept since I woke up on Friday to get this completed over the weekend. It's my new website design. Completely bespoke and built by me with nothing more than Photoshop and CSS.
No frameworks or WordPress. In fact, I did this redesign because WordPress was so DAMN slow, even with compression modifications.
I'd love to hear your feedback - good and bad!
http://www.tomcash.co.uk/
Ay Ay Ron
ClioSport Club Member
Loads fast on phone on hotel wifi.
You've got spots on the colour shot of the Vulcan at Rhyl!
Will give a proper look when I get back on the laptop though and let you know how I find it.
Got hundreds of shots from Italy to get through when I'm home. Last night here, sat getting pissed on the bar. Few more street shots tomorrow I think. Thread to follow....
I’ve got some social media pages sorted out to go along with my new website ( http://niallleaphotography.co.uk/ ). This website has been sorted out speed wise (FAO Dan) with a new theme, the old one was very laggy.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/niallleaphotography
Twitter: https://twitter.com/NLphotography97
I’m trying to build up some followers/likes/hits on these to get them started so any would be great.
Any feedback/thoughts on any of these would also be good to hear Cheers.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/niallleaphotography
Twitter: https://twitter.com/NLphotography97
I’m trying to build up some followers/likes/hits on these to get them started so any would be great.
Any feedback/thoughts on any of these would also be good to hear
Cheers.So, my Lightroom (3.4) doesn't work with my 6D raw files.
Look at buying a Lightroom that does and it needs windows 7+ (Still on Vista.... >.<)
So before I can buy LR I need to buy Windows 7 and I also need a new Hard drive and I'm skint lol....
Well, at least I found out before I shot the whole of the BTCC in raw this weekend...
Is the Canon CR2 processing software any good, does anyone know?
Look at buying a Lightroom that does and it needs windows 7+ (Still on Vista.... >.<)
So before I can buy LR I need to buy Windows 7 and I also need a new Hard drive and I'm skint lol....
Well, at least I found out before I shot the whole of the BTCC in raw this weekend...
Is the Canon CR2 processing software any good, does anyone know?
Dan...
ClioSport Club Member
Is anyone else having trouble uploading photos to Flickr today?
Dan...
ClioSport Club Member
Hey folks! just after a little bit of advice really,
My current gear =
Canon 550D Body,
18-55 IS Kit lens
75-300 EF-S Lens
I'm thinking I'd like another lens, although not sure what to go for.... I like the idea of having a 10-20, as that would extend the range i can shoot, although I've seen canon do a 50mm for £75 which so far i've only read good reviews.... will that produce better quality photos than the kit lens?
I often use my camera for videos, wakeboarding and skiing... although hopefully next summer i shall start doing some more car related vids and i really like the slight "gopro" style footage that is obtained from a wide angle, so am also considering getting one of the wide angle lens attachments just for a little play.
Ii know that the quality wont be there but theres no way i would be able to fork out for a proper wide angle lens, that lets be honest i wont use too much!!!
ooh worth saying, i'm fairly new to all of the photography stuff... and i cant believe how good some of the pictures you folks take are!!! Like, the minds boggles... is that down to kit? or just improving the image with better software??
Thanks for your help chaps...
My current gear =
Canon 550D Body,
18-55 IS Kit lens
75-300 EF-S Lens
I'm thinking I'd like another lens, although not sure what to go for.... I like the idea of having a 10-20, as that would extend the range i can shoot, although I've seen canon do a 50mm for £75 which so far i've only read good reviews.... will that produce better quality photos than the kit lens?
I often use my camera for videos, wakeboarding and skiing... although hopefully next summer i shall start doing some more car related vids and i really like the slight "gopro" style footage that is obtained from a wide angle, so am also considering getting one of the wide angle lens attachments just for a little play.
Ii know that the quality wont be there but theres no way i would be able to fork out for a proper wide angle lens, that lets be honest i wont use too much!!!
ooh worth saying, i'm fairly new to all of the photography stuff... and i cant believe how good some of the pictures you folks take are!!! Like, the minds boggles... is that down to kit? or just improving the image with better software??
Thanks for your help chaps...
Any of you guys ever used the Canon 70-300L?
I've been reading rave reviews about it using the 70-200 2.8L IS II image stabilisation system. Being pin sharp throughout the range etc.. etc..
I had a 70-200 f4, then a 70-200 2.8L but I want something with a bit more reach for my motorsport shots and was convinced the 70-300L was the way to go but a photographer on my facebook yesterday said the ones he'd used were really soft at 300mm..
I'm wondering if it was just a bad lens as the reviews I can find make quite a point of how sharp it is at all lengths.
Bit confused now - can't really afford a 70-200 2.8 IS II and TC, and the 100-400mm is very old and soft.
I've been reading rave reviews about it using the 70-200 2.8L IS II image stabilisation system. Being pin sharp throughout the range etc.. etc..
I had a 70-200 f4, then a 70-200 2.8L but I want something with a bit more reach for my motorsport shots and was convinced the 70-300L was the way to go but a photographer on my facebook yesterday said the ones he'd used were really soft at 300mm..
I'm wondering if it was just a bad lens as the reviews I can find make quite a point of how sharp it is at all lengths.
Bit confused now - can't really afford a 70-200 2.8 IS II and TC, and the 100-400mm is very old and soft.
Jhead, the 50mm 1.8 MKII is a good lens for the money. It produces a really good quality image. However, on your 550D it'll be the equivalent to an 80mm lens, so it will be tough to use in certain situations, such as indoors.
However, if you persevere with it you can take some excellent photographs. It's easily my most used lens now that I've got the hang of it. To begin with, I nearly sold it because I found it so frustrating to use.
It has the tendency to hunt a lot in low light conditions and when using live display.
However, if you persevere with it you can take some excellent photographs. It's easily my most used lens now that I've got the hang of it. To begin with, I nearly sold it because I found it so frustrating to use.
It has the tendency to hunt a lot in low light conditions and when using live display.
I think Flickr is the best, personally.
Have you considered a used Sigma 100-300mm f4 or Sigma 120-300 2.8? Whilst the 70-300L is apparently a fine lens, it's slow compared to what you're used to, and will sacrifice some AF speed. It's not really a tried and tested motorsport lens. Also, the IS is essentially irrelevant to motorsport anyway.
I've never found critical sharpness to be a major factor in choosing a motorsport lens, AF speed and technique will probably have far more of an overall impact on the quality of your shots.
If you still have the 70-200 I would have thought adding a 1.4tc would be the sensible option. If not, a 300mm f4 is super sharp and really makes you think about how you're shooting, that's all I have for motorsport now.
I hate sigma lenses - every one I've owned has had to be re-calibrated or sold on because it under or over focused. Their QA is shocking.
I don't have the 70-200 any more, I borrow one of my friends. Had to sell my camera gear last year to help my girlfriend out - but got a wad in savings again now so want to buy my own lenses again.
The 300mm or 400mm primes are very sharp but I would only want to run one if I had 2 bodies and could swap back to a zoom - as most of the motorsport stuff I do there nearly always ends up being a crash or some overtaking action exactly where I wasn't expecting it.
That's why I was very interested in the 70-300 - as it's flexible but still with reach.
The f4 wouldn't bother me as nearly all my shots are f8-f10, but I do realise it might have an impact on autofocus speed with less light coming in.
You could try a 70-200 with a x2 TC? I did that at the BTCC yesterday and was more than pleased with the results.
@That's your decision to make mate. I used my 50mm more than my WA personally.... The 50mm just requires a lot more effort. The results are worth it though.this is the one... i think i've put it across right, but wanna make sure we're talking about the same lens!!
would i be better off getting a 10-20 then?
This one: http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-...-canon-fit-_-canon-ef-50mm-f1-8-ii-lens_12814
Just get the 70-300, Phil. You have to ask yourself how much these reviews are exaggerated, haven't these people heard of sharpening in post? It's an L lens, so it's not going to be horrifically soft, so don't worry too much about sharpness, if you're that bothered then just bump up the sharpness in camera
Just get the 70-300, Phil. You have to ask yourself how much these reviews are exaggerated, haven't these people heard of sharpening in post? It's an L lens, so it's not going to be horrifically soft, so don't worry too much about sharpness, if you're that bothered then just bump up the sharpness in camera
Yeah cheers mate. I found that pixel peepers website and looked at a load of shots at 300mm. I certainly couldn't see any softness and tbh at 1000px wide who's gonna tell in most web/print formats?
I can get one for £850 brand new - whereas the 70-200 and TC would be well over double that.
Gonna give it a go
F/5 30 seconds, 31mm, iso 400. No editing done. Should I be focusing on the boats or the tower? I let the camera autofocus to the tower, switched it to manual focus and then set the timer to take.
There was a nd filter on the lens but that was on low. I found it helps the light not scattering lines everywhere.
Going to go try it again tomorrow evening and see what I can improve
I should be buying a Canon 500D in a few weeks.
It has a kit lens, and a Canon 50mm prime.
One of it's first outings will be a long weekend in the Scottish Highlands, would it be wise to invest in a polarising filter? I've read up on them, and with the amount of water in the area (lochs and rivers) I'm thinking a polarising filter could be handy?
I'm totally new to Canon, so can anyone recommend me one, or advise on if there is any point anyway?
I've done a bit of photography, so it's not all completely new to me, I'm just new to Canon and filters.
It has a kit lens, and a Canon 50mm prime.
One of it's first outings will be a long weekend in the Scottish Highlands, would it be wise to invest in a polarising filter? I've read up on them, and with the amount of water in the area (lochs and rivers) I'm thinking a polarising filter could be handy?
I'm totally new to Canon, so can anyone recommend me one, or advise on if there is any point anyway?
I've done a bit of photography, so it's not all completely new to me, I'm just new to Canon and filters.
A CPL will help cut through some of the reflections.
A HOYA one is a good bet. If you go to Asia (DigitalRev for example), you can save a lot of money compared to the UK. It just takes a few days longer to deliver, obviously.
If you buy a screw in one, you'll need one the same diameter as your lens. So if your prime is a Canon 50mm f/1.8 MK2, you'll need a 52mm. I can't remember what the 17-55 is, but it'll be on the ring of the lens.
Niall knows more about this than me though. He works at the head office of the global distribution centre for circular polarisers.
A HOYA one is a good bet. If you go to Asia (DigitalRev for example), you can save a lot of money compared to the UK. It just takes a few days longer to deliver, obviously.
If you buy a screw in one, you'll need one the same diameter as your lens. So if your prime is a Canon 50mm f/1.8 MK2, you'll need a 52mm. I can't remember what the 17-55 is, but it'll be on the ring of the lens.
Niall knows more about this than me though. He works at the head office of the global distribution centre for circular polarisers.
What's wrong with this?
Is it focus or the lights making the picture noisy?
It does seem a little underexposed. Here's my tips for that scene. Firstly remove the nd filter its so not needed for night photography. Pop it in the bin just in case you accidentally use it again
. However a nd grad filter would balance exposure between the sky and the shadows of the water. Shoot earlier at blue hour so you get a nice contrast between the dark blue sky and the yellow lights rather than an overall orange tinted image. When shooting boats you do get some movement so don't be scared to bump up iso to keep shutter speeds under 5 seconds.
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