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power cable





does anyone know where in a 2002 1.2 16v Clio i can squeeze 0-gauge power cable through the bulk head without actually having to make a hole myself

i made that mistake in my old saxo, and vowed never to do it again
 
  Lionel Richie


Follow the bonnet release cable back to the bulkhead, here youll find a rumber grommet that goes through to the passenger footwell.
 


Forget the bonnet release cable, the hole will not be big enough to squeeze a flys dick into it, let alone a 0 gauge cable! What you want to do is jack the front left of the car so you can access the mud guards above the wheel, pop it open and youll see a rubber grummet, make a hole in the center and feed the cable through. Easier said than done!
 


cheers for your help,



this sounds like it could be a mission to get the cable through, may just be better if i get a 2nd battery and mount it in the boot
 


im planning

2x JL Audio 500.1 Amps

2x JL Audio 10" W6v2 subs

1x Alpine MRF-P320

a set of Boston 6.5 Components (not sure which model yet)

and a 1.0 Farad Power Cap
 

Tom

ClioSport Club Member
  EV (s)


what are you doing?

o-gauge?

explain?

(i know what 0-gauge is before you get cute)
 

Tom

ClioSport Club Member
  EV (s)


holy sh**

ok your going to need a battery too

why 2 10s? isnt that overkill with a clio

i have 2 10" hifonics in mine and its too much
 

Tom

ClioSport Club Member
  EV (s)


you can use the bonnet gromet and re route the bonnet cable to the driverside or use a smaller gromet for rerouting
 


in the saxo i had 2x10s and loved them, but i decided to change the whole lot and ended up getting a single 12"

although i loved the volume, the bass just wasnt tight enough, i couldnt be bothered to change it all again so just put up with it

the builds were specific for the saxo, so i couldnt just take it al out and transfer it all over, so it was sold with the car

now its come to ICE up the Clio, i want to get the punchiness back into the bass, hence the 2x10s

i was going to change the battery for an Exide deep cycler, but i may aswell try and incorporate a battery into the boot install and run a split charging off the alternator
 

Tom

ClioSport Club Member
  EV (s)


there isnt much room

i have 2 10s in seperate boxes 1 hifonics 200w amp for the fronts (ddd drive alpine units 5inchers) and a hifonics colossus 2000w x1 amp for the subs (hidden under the false floor)

i have a custom dry cell battery running on a splitcharge system the battery is also under the floor where the spare is/was
 


ive got no problems in removing the back seats to create more room, i hate being a taxi driver for my mates, with no rear seats that would solve the problem

or possibly even mounting the JL amps in the rear footwells as another option
 

Tom

ClioSport Club Member
  EV (s)


yeah that would work loadsa room just dont hole the fuel tank!!
 


i wouldnt drill through the floorpan anyway

to earth them ill use the subframe bolts, that way there will be no drilling, and no fears of me bu**ering it up (as usual)
 


as impressive as that looks - i want to keep to my tried and tested manufacturers

Alpine, Boston, JL Audio, Kicker, Pioneer and Stinger



when you consider the W6v2s are 350wRMS and the 500.1 produce 500wRMS, it means i wont be over working the amps, which usually preserves the life and improves SQ
 


Quote: Originally posted by bambam on 18 November 2002


cheers for your help,



this sounds like it could be a mission to get the cable through, may just be better if i get a 2nd battery and mount it in the boot
If you get a second battery in the boot, wont you still need to route a cable through?
 

Tom

ClioSport Club Member
  EV (s)


my sq subs are 1000w rms so they need alot of juice

but i cant get the boxes airtight so im having problems

of course i have an old faithful Alpine 7865r HU and my trusty ddd drive components (going soon for some alpine F1 status components)

wouldnt touch pioneer kicker make good bits and bobs (grilles etc)

i may get a single w7 to replace my 2 10s
 


ive never had any problems with Kicker equipment,

as for pioneer, ive always had a thing for their HUs - if money was no option id buy a Nakamichi HU, just for the superior SQ
 
  Cupra K1 & Clio 200


I got 2-gauge through the little grommet hole in the passenger foot well. Bit of a tight sqeeze, but im use to it ;)



Hon
 

B 8

  Black Mk2 172 [ B 8 ]


I fitted O gauge cable in my Clio 172 Mk2 by running it from the battery, under the wheel arch plastic mouldings, underneath the car and in through the rubber grommet that hides the hole for getting to the bolt that takes the front left seat out.

Hope I didnt confuse you..
 
  Revels Mum & Sister


I agree JL are excellent.



I am running 2 JL 12W3s in my Clio. Along with a set of JL XR co-Axials and JLVR components. 3 Amps running this set up. I am using 2 gauge power cable mate and it is fine.

Was looking in the Autoleads catalogue and 4 gauge will take up to like 250AMPS so 2 gauge will take a sh*t load. We ran 2 12"W7s in a 106 GTi at weston wheels with two gauge.

So you shouldnt need 0 gauge biy off overkill.
 


its not that i need to, its that i want to



ive started the boot build and come to the conclusion that im not gonna get both subs and all ther amps into the boot



so plans change, now for sale are 1xJL Audio 500.1 Amp and 1xJL Audio W6v2 Sub 10" (see for sale section)
 
  Revels Mum & Sister


Will take some and get them up mate.

It isnt anything special just two subs in a box for now. Although am thinking of going for 1 Polk MOMO very soon! Bit loud really.

If anyone is interested I have a JL 12W7 used for about an hour. £550
 


Just to help people with any problems that they may be having with getting a amplifier power wire form the battery to the boot.

I, with a little help from my dad did this in about an hour (not knowing where to go to start with...!)

Id read somwhere that the best place to go through would be under the windscreen washer so we decided to go under that.

PLUG WIRE INTO BATTERY LAST

1. siphon all water out of washer bottle

2. take off both windscreen wipers

3. take off black tray thingy from bottom of windscreen

4. get one person to put ignition on and move wiper mechanism so there is the maximum gap for the washer bottle to come out (you will have to IMIDIATLY turn off the ignition when other person says stop).

5. unplug and pull the washer pump out of the bottle (just pulls out upwards).

6. you will see a clear plastic tube that goes down into the car interior (can be seen from pasenger footwell as well) and goes to the rear wiper. unplug the 2 tubes from the pump and blow through the pipe that goes into the car until it has all come out of the rear washer-you wont want anything to get wet...!

7. pull the rubber protector that goes round the pipe out of bulkhead and remove from the pipe altogether (you will want this to go round your amp wire).

8. pull pipe into car interior (thats why you blew through the pipe...!) drill a hole/enlarge the existing hole and push rubber sleeve over amp cable-some WD40 can help you get it over larger cables, or even some KY...! (could be very nasty if it were to get snagged and short out...).

9. then basicly it is up to you what you were to do next but using some silicone sealant or mastic once you have replaced the pipe and cable on hole to stop leaks is STRONGLY advised.

10. cable tie amp wire over rubber sleeved wiring loom towards battery and:

11. put all things back in reverse order (reset wiper mechanism as soon as you have replaced washer bottle-wiper position when you put them back on will be a pain...) the tray will sit slightly high on the cable but it wont cause any harm (plastic and rubber).

Cable can be tucked up under the door trim all the way to the boot.

hope this helps you all.

let me know how you get on with it if you take my advice.

I did all this with a 10mm diameter wire (60 amp)

msnow2@postmaster.co.uk
 


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