Pressure washer and rotary advice!

[chris_p]

After much deliberation I've decided to go all out and detail the M3 myself.

Here's the technique I was going for:
-Pre-rinse with pressure washer
-Snow foam
-Rinse again
-Wash with wash mitt using the 2 bucket method
-Then a full correction detail using a rotary.

What pressure washer should I be going for? Thought this looked a good buy http://www.valueland.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=40011170&src=froogle
I heard the earlier models couldn't be repaired but these ones can?

The same question goes for the rotary, I know I should probably start out on a DA but tbh I think I'll just go all out with a good rotary and just be careful, practice on scrap panels etc first.
I saw this is one of the better models on DW http://www.powertools2u.co.uk/Sande...Polisher.htm?gclid=CJrSyq-xv6gCFQod4QodPFpypA
...only it's a little expensive. If they're all that much for a good one then fair enough though.

What pads etc should I go for?

I know this is a fair amount of questions, but I'm totally going for it! Cheers for any advice x

 

[RussZS]

Okay, pressure washer wise, Karcher yes, but not that POS. You need to go for one of the newer X series models, which have a 3-5 year warranty and water cooled pump. I have X5.700. It's awesome. Don't get caught up in the Nilfisk hype. Sure C110 is good, and C120 is okay, but once you're up to E130/E140 money, then you are better off with Karcher X Series.

The Makita is a great rotary, solid, reliable, all you ever need, but it's a tough rotary to learn with given it's size. I recommend you buy a lighter machine (your arms will thank me for this on vertical panels!), such as the 3M Rotary (£175 form I4D with their discount code).

Also, look at using 4" pads to learn with, as a rotary can be quite tricky to 'steer'. The 4" pads allow you much greater control than 5-6" pads. I'd recommend the Meguairs 4" pads. Once you're used to the machine, get perhaps some CG Hex Logic pads, or the newer Lake Country ones from PB

Also DO NOT skimp on the backing plate. Buy a decent cushioned one, such as the Gloss It or 3M plates, which again allow much more control over the machine.

Some people will buy the Silverline rotary, the cheapest, thinnest, shittest backing plate ever conceived, and moan about how hard using a rotary is... don't.

 

[chris_p]

Okay, pressure washer wise, Karcher yes, but not that POS. You need to go for one of the newer X series models, which have a 3-5 year warranty and water cooled pump. I have X5.700. It's awesome. Don't get caught up in the Nilfisk hype. Sure C110 is good, and C120 is okay, but once you're up to E130/E140 money, then you are better off with Karcher X Series.

The Makita is a great rotary, solid, reliable, all you ever need, but it's a tough rotary to learn with given it's size. I recommend you buy a lighter machine (your arms will thank me for this on vertical panels!), such as the 3M Rotary (£175 form I4D with their discount code).

Also, look at using 4" pads to learn with, as a rotary can be quite tricky to 'steer'. The 4" pads allow you much greater control than 5-6" pads. I'd recommend the Meguairs 4" pads. Once you're used to the machine, get perhaps some CG Hex Logic pads, or the newer Lake Country ones from PB

Also DO NOT skimp on the backing plate. Buy a decent cushioned one, such as the Gloss It or 3M plates, which again allow much more control over the machine.

Some people will buy the Silverline rotary, the cheapest, thinnest, shittest backing plate ever conceived, and moan about how hard using a rotary is... don't.

What price am I looking at for the x series? I'm not really looking at spending mega bucks, tbh looking at the reliability of the cheaper units I'm thinking I may skip the pressure washing stage in favour of normal prewash routine? I can't see a pressure wash being essential.

As for the rotray, how's this? http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis...r-ep800-compact-rotary-polisher/prod_854.html

Thanks for the reply mate.

 

[Steve]

Mine cost £200 from costco

 

[Chris_786]

I have that exact same pressure washer and it's been great so far! No complaints at all.

 

[willy_kev]

One thing i will say mate is if your going to invest in a rotary, the spend £100 on a half decent PTG ( paint thickness gauge ) take readings of every car pannel, top and bottom, i think that on the clios they use clearcoated. Clearcoated is primer and paint but with a layer of protective coating over the top. On these, the thinnest snip of paint is used and a thicker layer of clear. I can't quite remember the figures, but when read with a PTG, assume 50/50 primer to paint on single stage and 50/50 primer AND paint to clearcoat on clearcoated cars. If you're seeing more than 200 uM on single stage, presume a respray - this is good since you'll have more paint to work with ... BUT ... if the car is clearcoated, assume a respray but don't assume it's been prepped well. You might have primer, paint, clear, more paint and more clear rather than primer, paint (thicker than factory) and then clear.
When working with a machine, you'll achieve good correction inside about 5 uM. This is great if you start with 120 uM. You will have nipped off 5 uM of 60 uM off the top of the clearcoat or paint (if single stage) and have left a lot to go.

If you're seeing readings under 100 uM take care! Take a lot of care! In fact, go all over the car and see if the readings are sporadic - this will tell you if the car has been polished before and/or resprayed. Conversely, if you see 500 uM or more ... take care! You might be polishing over filled areas that will crack with too much heat from the machine.
It is normal to see more depth on the top panels and to see a gradually lesser amount of depth the further down the doors you go.

When selecting polishes and pads, start with a system - 3M is a great start, especially with a rotary, which I would encourage you to go for. DAs are for girls In seriousness, the rotary is a great choice, smoother to use and achieves results more quickly - either polisher will wreak havoc if you're not concentrating, so the argument about the DA being safer is not strictly true.

I would kick off with the 3M yellow top and blue top polishes with the yellow and blue pads. You're unlikely to need a compound ... and if you do, try these lesser abrasive polishes first. The yellow top/yellow pad does the work and you finish to a high gloss with the blue top/blue pad combo.

Another great choice is the Chemical Guys Hexlogic pads - the white and black pads offer similar to the 3M yellow/blue and for polishes, Meguiars #105 and #205 are a neat alternative.

But take time to gain accurate readings! hope this helped.

Kev