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Re-aligning steering wheel position sensor



Being an idiot I removed the OEM wheel and didn't mark the position of the rotating switch.
Needless to say the ESP now throws up a fault, and if you push on in a straight line the car thinks you're trying to turn and activates the ESP!

It is a Valeo steering assembly.
The workshop manual says align the '0' on the rotating part with the 'fixed point' on the static sensor part.
These marks are not really obvious on my car.

Any help appreciated
 
Thanks for all the help.
The yellow-blue indicator thing is quite clever once you know it's there.

Sadly that wasn't the main issue!
I have the same problem as one of the members in the thread that @JamesBryan linked to.

I have an OMP boss supposedly for a 182, but it doesn't have the lugs on the wheel where it fits over the spline.
These lugs on the OEM wheel slot into the steering position switch and rotate it with the wheel.
Without the lugs the only thing that pushes the switch round is the airbag wiring squib which is not really very positive.
The flashing ESP must have been really confused when I went round a roundabout.....thinking the steering was straight ahead but the direction sensor saying it was cornering.

With all the fiddling I've discovered the OEM wheel without the airbag is actually lighter than the OMP wheel and boss.!
I'll stick that back on until i can figure out how to fabricate some lugs.
 

Looks interesting, might give that a go.

What I haven't mentioned in this thread is that the OMP wheel I bought is 300mm diameter. As it's for racing I thought I'd try a smaller diameter wheel, the car's a bit like a Go Kart anyway!
Thing is it's a bit too small for me as the race seat is so low in the car, and I'm so short, even on the lowest steering column position I still have to reach up, and it just doesn't feel right. One of the few things I've learnt from 6 years racing is that if you have to think about the seat, pedal position, steering wheel, mirrors etc. whilst driving they are not right. They are also some of the simpler things to put right.

I think I'll probably look for a 330mm wheel. So if anyone's interested in a brand new OMP Trecento at £60 plus P&P let me know. Cost £ 105 plus carrige from Demon Tweeks just a few weeks ago!

Cheers, Andy
 
Just to round this thread off I came up with a rather pikey but cheap solution to my lugless steering boss problem.
Surprisingly pleased with how it worked out.

Basically cut out the metal centre of the OEM steering wheel and drilled out bolt holes to match the OMP wheel to make a new 'boss'
Used long stainless countersunk bolts and nuts to both fit the wheel to the boss, and to adjust the spacing as shown in the photos.

I could have ordered black bolts, I had the stainless ones already and looks don't bother me that much if it works.

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So if you want to save the cost of a steering wheel boss, and have adjustable reach, but don't mind looking a bit odd !
 
Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahabab

This is a wind up surely?

Literally pissing myself sat on a train here so thank you for that.

This HAS to be a joke. It has to be? Hahahahahaahahhahahaha

Not at all ! You should have seen some of the Heath Robinson stuff we got away with on the Subaru race car.
Although I'm very pleased to have brightened your day?

The bolts are M6 stainless, so a bit stronger than the ones which OMP supply with their boss.

However, always conscious of Health and Safety, particularly my own, I would be really grateful if you could point out the actual issues......many thanks
 
The M6 stainless are stronger than the omp ones.... How did you work that out?

OMP ones are 12.9 high tensile. The ones you've used will have a poor shear load.

Thank you James, I must admit I was just going on the increased diameter of the M6 bolt, but it probably only has 8.8 shear strength. So not sure how much load a 12.9 M4 bolt will take compared to an 8.8 M6 bolt, but will check it out, unless you can tell me, which would be really helpful.

So if we upgraded to 12.9 bolts what then would be the issues?
In what scenario is the steering wheel likely to take a really high shear load, and how much torque can we actually apply to the wheel?
I would have to have the strength to break those bolts before they fail, nothing else is holding the wheel against the shear applied to the bolts except my hands.
I would respectfully suggest that if such a force was applied back through the wheel it would be ripped from my puny grasp.

Please be assured I am not looking for an argument at all here, and given logical scientific reasons for why this unsafe I will ditch it.
 


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