182
want to take mine out but did a search for the guide and couldn't find it?
how do i go about it
how do i go about it
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Removing acoustic valve
- Thread starter TooneySonic
- Start date
mk3 golf gti
what is it and what is the benefit of removing it mate??
182
baically its a device which helps the car pass stupid EU drive by noise regs etc, free's up a little more induction snort once vanquished
mk3 golf gti
interesting! i await some kind person's guide!
b/g 182, meg tourer
supposed to get more induction noise and de-restrict airflow. i removed mine with plans to get a larger air feed.
all you need to do really is take passanger front wheel off, and wheel arch, unplug he electrics to the acoustic valve, pull rubber hose out of acoustic valve and block it up, undo bolt on horn/acoustic valve bracket, remove the acoustic valve and shoirt length of pipe, re-fit horn and bracket, refit wheel arch and wheel
all you need to do really is take passanger front wheel off, and wheel arch, unplug he electrics to the acoustic valve, pull rubber hose out of acoustic valve and block it up, undo bolt on horn/acoustic valve bracket, remove the acoustic valve and shoirt length of pipe, re-fit horn and bracket, refit wheel arch and wheel
Also, Print it out and read as your going along if needs be
Or just be a cowboy like me and do away with the cold air feed altogether
Cant really see it but basically as the standard inlet is too big my viper is too far forward at th mo to make a decent caf so just did away with it
Cant see there being much heat soak and it gets cold air through the bumper... havent noticed a difference in sound/performance at all.
P.s like the tie wraps
Cant really see it but basically as the standard inlet is too big my viper is too far forward at th mo to make a decent caf so just did away with it
Cant see there being much heat soak and it gets cold air through the bumper... havent noticed a difference in sound/performance at all.
P.s like the tie wraps
b/g 182, meg tourer
WIP dude
(work in progress!) house is caining the car funds at the mo no but it was connected to the standard airbox at first... then removed just before fitting the viper and didnt notice any sound difference.
b/g 182, meg tourer
WIP dude
no but it was connected to the standard airbox at first... then removed just before fitting the viper and didnt notice any sound difference.
aah, got you.
the valve is quite restrictive, air feed pipe is very small on a phase 2 1*2 also. better to just remove the air feed all together imo. nice sound and more air getting in. not sure performance wise tho. little bit of warmer air getting in. standard airbox with no feeds gets its air from a simelar place to a maxogen tho i guess
b/g 182, meg tourer
yeah, i keep meaning to get some large ducting to run from behind the lower grille to near the airbox with no feeds. was going to go down the ph1 airbox route but its a tight squeeze to get in.
or if you have a wireless laptop, take it outside. i dont have a printer
Thats what i done! White macbook FTL
Where can i get the ducting like that from?
b/g 182, meg tourer
yeah, it does, but i have made a large battery cover out of lightweight plastic that should keep the cool air in the area around the airbox inlets (hopefully). lol. there is a thread on my diy battery cover, i made it today
BMW 330Ci Sport
I got some just like that from Demon Tweeks. They sell it by the metre. It does help working just round the corner though!
182
plagerism ftw!
A short guide
* Remove (entirely) the air box, disconnecting both air feeds (one to the right and one directly under). Air box is held in place by two screws and jublie clips
* Jack the car up under front left, ensure you use a axle stand or similar
* Remove wheel, place neatly elsewhere
* Remove the underside arch-liner, fastened by a few torque screws and some fat looking plastic plugs (these just pull out with a tug)
* Watch for the small ribbed cable (battery acid overflow pipe) as its connected to the arch liner. Let this dangle somewhere.
* You will now have exposed the underside of your front bumper, note the bracket holding both your horn and the acoustic valve.
* Try to unclip as many of the wiring looms to both the horn and the valve, let these looms dangle somewhere
* Undo the bolt holding the bracket in place
* Tuck the horn assembly somewhere out of the way
* Remove the small air feed, no 1, simply turn it to unclip
* Remove accoustic valve by pulling it downwards and out of the wheel arch, if you meet resistance check looms are disconnected and path is clear
* You should be left with a large gap / hole
* Accoustic valve will be connected to a thin black tube, remove as much of the connecting bits, leaving just the tube.
This must be blocked off (or you will idle above 1000rpm) with a screw / bung similar
Tape the screw in place
* Remount the horn, reconnect horn wiring loom to horn, screw bracket back into place
* Tape up all looms and cover ends with tape
* Tape blocked pipe somewhere
* Once the valve is removed make any modifications you wish, i.e place your airfeeds etc
* Reconnect the battery overflow pipe to the grilled bottom of the arch liner
* Replace arch liner, fix with plugs and screws
* Put wheel back on, ensure wheel is flush to brake when placing nuts or you will mark your wheels
* Lower car
* Connect new air feeds to air box, replace air box, ensure jubile clips are tight
* Job done, admire your work.
Start car, check horn, leave to idle for 2mins ish - idle @ 800rpm ish?
A short guide
* Remove (entirely) the air box, disconnecting both air feeds (one to the right and one directly under). Air box is held in place by two screws and jublie clips
* Jack the car up under front left, ensure you use a axle stand or similar
* Remove wheel, place neatly elsewhere
* Remove the underside arch-liner, fastened by a few torque screws and some fat looking plastic plugs (these just pull out with a tug)
* Watch for the small ribbed cable (battery acid overflow pipe) as its connected to the arch liner. Let this dangle somewhere.
* You will now have exposed the underside of your front bumper, note the bracket holding both your horn and the acoustic valve.
* Try to unclip as many of the wiring looms to both the horn and the valve, let these looms dangle somewhere
* Undo the bolt holding the bracket in place
* Tuck the horn assembly somewhere out of the way
* Remove the small air feed, no 1, simply turn it to unclip
* Remove accoustic valve by pulling it downwards and out of the wheel arch, if you meet resistance check looms are disconnected and path is clear
* You should be left with a large gap / hole
* Accoustic valve will be connected to a thin black tube, remove as much of the connecting bits, leaving just the tube.
This must be blocked off (or you will idle above 1000rpm) with a screw / bung similar
Tape the screw in place
* Remount the horn, reconnect horn wiring loom to horn, screw bracket back into place
* Tape up all looms and cover ends with tape
* Tape blocked pipe somewhere
* Once the valve is removed make any modifications you wish, i.e place your airfeeds etc
* Reconnect the battery overflow pipe to the grilled bottom of the arch liner
* Replace arch liner, fix with plugs and screws
* Put wheel back on, ensure wheel is flush to brake when placing nuts or you will mark your wheels
* Lower car
* Connect new air feeds to air box, replace air box, ensure jubile clips are tight
* Job done, admire your work.
Start car, check horn, leave to idle for 2mins ish - idle @ 800rpm ish?
Bloodyell, longest way ever, quicker to take the bumper of than do all that lol. I did mine with bumper off as im doing vearious bits of bodywork.
Im going to attempt this tomorrow,
So after ive got the archliner out and unbolted some bits and bobs... i should be faced with the acoustic valve... does this clip onto the end of the short air feed into the airbox?
So i basically just unclip the Acoustic valve and take off the tube thats attached, just one?
Then block the tube with a bolt or similar and tie everything back out the way... job done?
So after ive got the archliner out and unbolted some bits and bobs... i should be faced with the acoustic valve... does this clip onto the end of the short air feed into the airbox?
So i basically just unclip the Acoustic valve and take off the tube thats attached, just one?
Then block the tube with a bolt or similar and tie everything back out the way... job done?
please read this about cut off acoustic valve http://cliotrophy.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10720
did it make any differance mate ?
