ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

Renewing Parts



  350z & 16v Maxi


I am coming up to my 72000 mile service and was wanting to do a bit more to it than just the timing belt so on. I want to replace some of the items that would be a bit worn by this time. Can anyone recommend what I should replace. Not on the engine tho, as I will be getting a fully re-built 2.0 for it just other stuff. I will renew the engine and gear box mounts when I change the engine. Anyone any thoughts?
 
  350z & 16v Maxi


I really mean something that would help the car drive like it was a bit newer, not the engine, just the total car. Cheers for your input though.
 


Hi Sir

without changine the engine / box.. nope..

just oil n filters.. flush the cooling system - refill.

if the shocks are original, change them. they will amaze you

Enjoy........
 
  350z & 16v Maxi


Cheers mate, just soon I will be running a 200+ bhp and also 100bhp of NOs I want everything to be in excellent working order before I drop the engine and NOs in.
 


goin to be replacing wishbone and anti roll bar bushes next. To try and tighten front end up. Dont know if you need to consider this?
 


Quote:
"if the shocks are original, change them. they will amaze you"
Captain, Did you mean replace with new original renualt shocks or uprated ones? as I think mine are original and theyve done 100k- Ive know idea if they are worn as Ive never driven another williams before, all I can say is it feels alright and passes the standard test- pushing down on a corner of the car to see if it bounces more than once.I suppose the only way to find out for sure is to test drive another willy thats had new shocks fitted.
 


I meant the original - the ones designed for the car.

it is not really worth changing to not standard shocks without non standard springs.

so, yes, go for genuine reno ones..

nobody has yest developed a suspension kit.. ie - tested it properly and refined it.. so dont bother with the springs either..

even changing the springs to standard new ones would be a teriffic benefit at 100k.

Joe
 


go for a set of poly-urathane (spelling) bushes all round, it will make a big differnce, its something ive been meaning to do for ages but havnt quite got round to it, im pretty sure Nick Read has done his, i dont know what the cost of the bushes are, but also unless you fit them your self then its fairly labour intensive but definitly worth it.

Nick How much for the uprated bushes?
 


capt, oh how i agree with you sooooooooo much. A ca is designed with thousands of hours in all conditions and what they come up with is the result of WORK not just uprated theory of.......harder & harder.

I only by custom made shocks to my own spec now, after buying some real crap.
 


Hi Ben, yep !

Lofty.. the poly bushes are not necessary on a road car at all.

they are a compromise between comfot and handling

handling in this context is defined as minimal change due to bush give.

you may well find that the handling of the car overall is improved by NOT fitting poly ar nylatron bushes. this is due to the comfort factor of the driver being proportional to the overall experience.

Joe
 


Lol

Lofty, dont get me wrong.. the solid bushes reduce suspension movement thereby maintaining a constant geometry.

they are superb on race cars.

on the road, they transmit every bump, shock, force etc to the passenger cab making for a harsh and noisy drive.

it is almost always better to learn YOUR cars characterisdtics then to try to make it into something new.

comfort is important to me.

it may not be to you, however, as said, I personally believe the drawbacks outweigh ANY benefits on road car.

As an example.. loads of people hardly ever check their tyre pressures... I check mine one a week. set them to manufacturers spec.. then play about.. up to 4 psi either way is acceptable on the standard tyres.. to tighten a loose fron or rear.. try reducing pressure on that axle.

the gains in having a known and constant pressure set can be more important than suspension bush hardening. the reason for the gain is purely predictability... if it did xyz yesterday, it will probably do the same today at the same limit etc... let the pressures drift.. and the handling will NOT be predictable.

Joe.
 


i know all abvout tyre pressures mate, and im pretty obsessive about mine too, coudnt agree more,

i just think you hear thing said so often that you just assume they are right,

same goes for these uprated suspension kits that you mention in another thread, i have stuck with standard up to now but just re-newed the dampners with good effect, althoguht i learnt this from driving a fiesta with both rears dampners totaly devoid of oil, i hit a bump in a fast bend and it just bounced out sideways , scary stuff, and it had an MOT too,
 


Top