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Replacing Engine on 182



  Arctic blue 182ff
right as embarrassed as i am already, here goes...

I lost all my engine oil, due to a leak, in one journey, and basically the big end has gone :(

I've bought a 2nd hand 182 engine, is there a guide on here on how to swap the engine over (which order to go about on what to take off etc...)

I cant find anything in the search.. Please help!!

Jack.
 
There's no guides for engine conversions unfortunately. I'm in the same boat as you though, lost my Clio due to the engine pissing oil! :dapprove:
 
No! It came up a few times but when you got to over 2k revs it went away. Always said 'OIL OK' when I started it too.
 

Gally

Formerly Mashed up egg in a cup
ClioSport Club Member
Pisser mate, not pally with a mechanic who can help or know a friend who does homers?
 
  Titanium 182
I assume it was a problem with your sump ?

Best way is to probably just get stuck in mate you can't make it much worse. :rasp:
 
  330i. E30 Touring.
Airbox off.
Battery out.
All plugs off head. Loom out later.
For simplicity, bumper off, slam panel off, rad out.
Exhaust mani off.
Fuel lines, heater pipes, etc.
Jack and block of wood under engine to support.
Undo mounts.
Gearbox off. (maybe).

Away you go. Ish. Probably some stuff i've missed.

Don't forget to drain the gearbox oil & coolant into a bucket, or you'll have a messy driveway.
 
  Arctic blue 182ff
Thanks everyone! my old mans going to help me do it, although he's an aircraft engineer, he'd like to know where to start.

Thanks Budgie

Jack.

Oh yeh, he's got an engine lift/crane
 

Scrooge

ClioSport Moderator
  E55 AMG
If you have a crane unbolt the gearbox from the engine, do as budgie says above then lift ot the top save you taking the subframe and everything else like the bumper and slam panel off. Take the bonnet off tho
 
Airbox off.
Battery out.
All plugs off head. Loom out later.
For simplicity, bumper off, slam panel off, rad out.
Exhaust mani off.
Fuel lines, heater pipes, etc.
Jack and block of wood under engine to support.
Undo mounts.
Gearbox off. (maybe).

Away you go. Ish. Probably some stuff i've missed.

Don't forget to drain the gearbox oil & coolant into a bucket, or you'll have a messy driveway.

Id drain gearbox oil and remove the driveshafts first, then go down that list :approve: Id leave the gearbox on and swap them over out of the car, then put the new one in. Far far far far less fiddly.
 

Scrooge

ClioSport Moderator
  E55 AMG
Id drain gearbox oil and remove the driveshafts first, then go down that list :approve: Id leave the gearbox on and swap them over out of the car, then put the new one in. Far far far far less fiddly.

If you leave the gearbox in the wheels don't even need to come off it. Its only bell housing bolts, manifold bolts,mounts and wiring loom stopping you from taking the engine out. Surely you find that quicker?
 
I find it quicker just taking the driveshafts out....out of the 9/10 times its been in and out this year ended up being quicker (the bottom bell housing nuts on the engine are the fiddly-est.

I just drain box oil, pop shafts out and lift the whole lot out. I had it out, gearbox off and clutch swapped and back in running in around 2 1/2 hours.....personal preference I guess!
 

Scrooge

ClioSport Moderator
  E55 AMG
I find it quicker just taking the driveshafts out....out of the 9/10 times its been in and out this year ended up being quicker (the bottom bell housing nuts on the engine are the fiddly-est.

I just drain box oil, pop shafts out and lift the whole lot out. I had it out, gearbox off and clutch swapped and back in running in around 2 1/2 hours.....personal preference I guess!

Fair enough matey everyone has their own ways. May try and do it you way next time. Last time I did it that way was in a fiat coupe absolute c**t with no crane
 
  Renaultsport 220T
If you don't know the history of the replacement engine, it is worthwhile doing all the belts while it's out of the car. You can leave the rad in place with some cable ties. Also worth putting a new clutch in too.
 
  Astra van,Mk1 nova
If you don't know the history of the replacement engine, it is worthwhile doing all the belts while it's out of the car. You can leave the rad in place with some cable ties. Also worth putting a new clutch in too.

+1

It will cost a wee bit more mate but atleast its piece of mind :)
 
  Arctic blue 182ff
right, so thanks to everyone for your help!!

What does everyone suggest i change before putting the engine back in,

i.e; clutch, cambelt, gaskets etc...
 

The Chubby Pirate

ClioSport Club Member
  Golf R
Cambelt change is a bloody good idea whilst the engine is out.

It makes it about 50% easier with the access you will have..!

Performance camshafts aswell perhaps? 428's? ;)
 
  BMW M5 & E36
Cambelt, aux belt, waterpump are 100x easier with the engine out. Some will say not to bother with waterpump but for the sake of £20 it makes sense to do it for peace of mind.
 
  ValverInBits
dont I need a timing kit for the cambelt??

Yes, you need to borrow some tools from somewhere

How close are you to KTEC? Maybe they'd have someone come over and do it with the engine on the floor for you?

edit, similar question was asked the other day
i'd tend to go out the top. get a crane, remove the rad to give you extra room to manovre, and lift engine and box out the top. Swap the box over on the floor (new clutch). The back in again.

A few notes:
Make sure you've got belt history on the new engine, or preferably, get the tools and do the belts before starting the swap.
If your clutch has seen any kind of reasonable use, you'd be mad not to replace.
You'll need a smooth floor, for jacking, and particularly for the engine crane.
You'll want a mate to help, even if they are quite inexperienced, it will help.
Have a good ol reccy the day before you start. Decide how your going to disconnect PAS+AC
You'll need the AC regassing after your done, and be aware that releasing the AC gas to atmosphere is technically ilegal.
As far as the engine loom goes, it can be usefull to have a few photos. But normally, for refit, just lay the loom back over the engine how it went and it should become fairly obvious where everything went.
You'll need a 30mm(iirc) socket and a massive breaker bar to get the hub nuts off. It can be avoided, but it's really not easy. - also it recommended you have new hub nuts for refit.
You'll need gearbox oil. You'll need coolant. You'll need PAS fluid.
Don't just give yourself a day. Make sure you have some free time the day after, even though you may not need it.
Hope that helps
 


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