Show me your stud and nut kits.

[VenomUK]

With stud kit is it still worth having spigot rings still or are they not needed?

 

[frayz]

With stud kit is it still worth having spigot rings still or are they not needed?

Still required. The spigots centre the wheel and wheels always require an accurate centre.
The studs or bolts are only there to stop the wheel falling off.

 

[RSRowe]

With stud kit is it still worth having spigot rings still or are they not needed?

You’ll be fine without them. Just makes life easier when you’re mounting them with the original bolts.

 

[VenomUK]

Still required. The spigots centre the wheel and wheels always require an accurate centre.
The studs or bolts are only there to stop the wheel falling off.

Best place for rings for 15" TD 1.2

 

[1985michael182]

What wheels you on? 2118?
That's what I'm on and the problem is they are on show so dont want loads sticking out like I have now. Bloke before me ran 16mm spacers 🙄

 

[GrahamS]

I don't run spigots when using studs because the taper on the nut centres the wheel. Technically you don't need them, it just makes locating easier when using normal bolts.

 

[1985michael182]

With stud kit is it still worth having spigot rings still or are they not needed?

If you dont get the correct centre bore for your vehicle then definitely run spigot

 

[Jekyll]

Think I'm on 3mm or 5mm spacers.

What wheels you on? 2118?
That's what I'm on and the problem is they are on show so dont want loads sticking out like I have now. Bloke before me ran 16mm spacers 🙄

68mm is the smallest size to get. The problem you have is the rears sit in the hub up to the knuckle, but the fronts sit further in, due to the disc, thus making the rear studs look longer.

Personally, I'd go 68mm rears 75mm fronts.

 

[1985michael182]

Not the best picture

 

[1985michael182]

I see what you mean, the disk on the front acts as a spacer.

 

[Jekyll]

Yes exactly. But those you have look huge. Almost look more like 90mm!

But with your current 3mm/5mm spacers I would say 68mm/75mm would look the closest to them being matched. That company I linked do half sets, so you could drop them a message and they'll mix & match for you. There is other companys too (watfields on ebay) that do it and offer great service too. All are m12 x 1.5 and are high tensile 10.9, which PMS are, just cheaper 👍

 

[1985michael182]

Yes exactly. But those you have look huge. Almost look more like 90mm!

But with your current 3mm/5mm spacers I would say 68mm/75mm would look the closest to them being matched. That company I linked do half sets, so you could drop them a message and they'll mix & match for you. There is other companys too (watfields on ebay) thay do it and offer great service too. All are m12 x 1.5 and are high tensile 10.9, which PMS are, just cheaper 👍

Yea they are huge!!
Think he had 16mm fronts and 12mm rears when I bought it. I binned them. The 2118 are wider track to start with think et35 on the white ones? So with 5mm spacers I'm on et30. Which is plenty wide, wider you go the more strain you put the wheel bearings under and it runs your scrub radius which is no good for track use if you want to get round corners.

 

[Jekyll]

White ones are et38. That's what I have. But I also have 18mm front spacers so use 90mm studs (as per link) and nothing on rear so have 68mm.

But mine is a daily and I've changed the bearings a few years ago for gen ones.

 

[1985michael182]

For stance they look great but it ruins your handling that wide. ET38 I'll remember that. Why dont you have rear spacers then?

 

[Jekyll]

It rubbed slightly when I had the rear spacers on, so I removed them.

 

[1985michael182]

It rubbed slightly when I had the rear spacers on, so I removed them.

You got axle/chambers shims on the rear?

 

[frayz]

I don't run spigots when using studs because the taper on the nut centres the wheel. Technically you don't need them, it just makes locating easier when using normal bolts.

Granted you may have not yet had a problem.... yet.

But, It centres the wheel to a point yes, but why would you ever run that risk of having the studs trying to hold on to lateral loads as well as being in tension? This will fatigue the fasteners and eventually fail.
With the wheel properly located on its centre, the fasteners only have to clamp the wheel on.
Even more so on track, that’s an accident waiting to happen in my opinion. I wouldn’t ever recommend anyone to not have a wheel properly located on its centre bore.

In the case of not having a properly located centre, it’s not a case of if the fasteners fail, it’s when.

 

[Jekyll]

You got axle/chambers shims on the rear?

No mate. I thought that may have been the case when I looked ages ago, but I dont have any.

 

[Louis]

I run 68mm rears and 82mm up front iirc. Using et43 2118s with 20mm front spacers and 10mm rear axle spacers.

 

[Jekyll]

@1985michael182

This is with 75mm on the rears

And this is with 68mm on the rears.

No 5mm spacer was fitted at the time.

 

[1985michael182]

Defo 68mm on the rear then!!

 

[1985michael182]

Even 68mm is too big for the rear really

 

[Jekyll]

I think that's because we have shallow wheel nuts. A slightly longer wheel nut would make it look less. And as mentioned, that's without a 5mm spacer.

But unfortunately 68mm seems to be the shortest 10.9 HT stud there is.

This is with 68mm and a 5mm spacer on the rears. (Excuse the dirty wheel)

 

[Louis]

I think that's because we have shallow wheel nuts. A slightly longer wheel nut would make it look less.

But unfortunately 68mm seems to be the shortest 10.9 HT stud there is.

Angle grinder makes anything shorter

 

[Jekyll]

Angle grinder makes anything shorter

😲🙊😮

 

[1985michael182]

I think that's because we have shallow wheel nuts. A slightly longer wheel nut would make it look less. And as mentioned, that's without a 5mm spacer.

But unfortunately 68mm seems to be the shortest 10.9 HT stud there is.

This is with 68mm and a 5mm spacer on the rears. (Excuse the dirty wheel)

View attachment 1470540

Yea that's manageable. Think I'll go for them.

Angle grinder makes anything shorter

How dare you swear at me! Dont you know who I am?! 😆

 

[RSRowe]

Granted you may have not yet had a problem.... yet.

But, It centres the wheel to a point yes, but why would you ever run that risk of having the studs trying to hold on to lateral loads as well as being in tension? This will fatigue the fasteners and eventually fail.
With the wheel properly located on its centre, the fasteners only have to clamp the wheel on.
Even more so on track, that’s an accident waiting to happen in my opinion. I wouldn’t ever recommend anyone to not have a wheel properly located on its centre bore.

In the case of not having a properly located centre, it’s not a case of if the fasteners fail, it’s when.

I’m sorry. But this is wrong

Friction keeps the wheels on through the tension generated through the fasteners. Absolutely no load is going through the spigot.

 

[1985michael182]

I've messaged that seller to see if he can do me 68 and 75 split. See what he says

 

[Jekyll]

After my current nuts being seized on (I think the tyre place did them up super tight as I cant remove the nut off the stud, but the whole stud comes loose out of the hub) I've decided to buy new studs and nuts.

I've gone for the same AI Tech ones as you as I already have some 90mm ones here. I've just purchased 70mm ones for the rears and am swapping my 16mm front spacer to a 18mm one.

These look great quality. Will fit them all once the rears arrive. I've gone for "normal" m12 x 1.5 short black wheel nuts. I do fancy something better but these was readily available to be sent out for the weekend.

Bimmec ones on left, AI Tech on right.

View attachment 1452948

I forgot to add in here but I bought the A1 Tech ones and fitted them. Cost £60 for 8 (already had the fronts from ages ago)

Dont buy them. This was after 2 weeks/250ish miles.

I changed to the Bimmec ones and used ACF50 as recommended, and they have been spot on. I'll get some pics tomorrow if I remember.

Dont waste your money on others as they are just not worth it. Bimmec ones are fine, just cheaper.

 

[1985michael182]

It's like anything really, maintenance is key to everything lasting. Acf50 is on the shopping list. Need it for my other suspension components aswell

 

[Jekyll]

Agreed it is, but this shouldn't of happened after such a short space of time. Especially as they claim to be the best on the market with a strong durable coating.

Just a little heads up for anybody looking in the future really.

 

[1985michael182]

No they shouldnt corrode that quickly

 

[1985michael182]

Got a stud to measure what's in mine at the minute.

Also of topic, how low my milage is...

 

[JamesBryan]

100mm I'd say.

They're usually measured off the full length. Well they are on Pure Motorsport anyway.

 

[Jekyll]

Thats correct. It'll be full stud length.

 

[1985michael182]

Ok I've been doing some measuring with the 2118's
I put a M12x1.5 nut onto the hub thread side and then a bit of plate from a role cage to sit it flat against the wheel from the back just like a hub flage would.

Then pushed it through the wheel from the rear. Redicolously long studs, you would need like 30mm spacers to fill them!!

From the rear face of the wheel to the top of the wheel nut it 35mm.

So in total....
Hub thread is 13mm
Rear of the alloy to the nut top is 35mm
Probably got 10mm in the stud tip without thread.
So as a minimum you need a 60mm length.
I'm running 3mm spacers on the rear so up to 63mm so yea 68mm on the rear and leaves 7mm play if I go wider spacers.

Same rule applies to the front but I have the front disk thickness to add on which I'm unsure on. Probably between 5/7mm which puts me on the limit at the front so next size up is 75mm to even out the potential 5/7mm play like on the rear.

Which also puts my full ET to 35.

Think 182ff has et43 or something doesnt it so 8mm wider track. But not over kill.

On a down side I've just noticed something has marked my beautiful fresh wheels!!! Nsf alloy. God know what's done it 😭

 

[frayz]

I have 10mm axle spacers on the rear with 68mm studs, 16mm hubcentric spacers up front with 75mm studs. This is the absolute widest spacer you could use as I’ve no thread left to play with.
Wheels are 2118 ET43.

 

[JamesBryan]

That marking is weird!

Almost like the ball joint or something is touching it and rubbing all the way around, but that can't be possible...

 

[1985michael182]

That marking is weird!

Almost like the ball joint or something is touching it and rubbing all the way around, but that can't be possible...

I know, I thought the same thing but I'm running Mark's role centre and bump steer kit which is miles off the wheel in both locks.
Only thing I can think of is something got stuck topside of the caliper for a few revolutions then got spat out!

 

[1985michael182]

I have 10mm axle spacers on the rear with 68mm studs, 16mm hubcentric spacers up front with 75mm studs. This is the absolute widest spacer you could use as I’ve no thread left to play with.
Wheels are 2118 ET43.
View attachment 1471811View attachment 1471812

Car looks well, very clean.
So I could potentially run 68mm on the front aswell then