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spacers behind rear disc. whos done it?

And if you have some basic hand tools and a bit of time, not quite finished
Picture-2.gif
 
Id want steel or alloy, wouldn't trust aluminium unless it was good quality stuff.

Suggestion as well for them would be to make centre hole circular rather than square, More support for the stub axle plus it mirrors the stub axle mounting face.
 
I would be well interested in these to. Good idea!
 
Ill be getting a price for each, but there will be no load going through it, so unless it squashes when you do the bolts up (highly unlikely) then aluminium will be plenty strong enough..

And also, ill need to know how big to make the hole then, as my car is a PH1, so the spacer doesn't go over anything.

An exploded diagram of the PH2 hub would be nice???
 
Your looking at roughly £35 posted to your door.
Still interested?

Ill get 5 sets of 10mm and 5 sets of 15mm made for a start, see how that goes...
 
I did this on my cup, had them made from aluminium, which was too soft for the job really. You want them made of steel and no more then 10mm I would say. Otherwise you will get issues with tracking and camber.. As mine were punched to make the holes the material bowed and then I also fitted it with camber shims and I had tons of camber on the rear.

So I would say yes if done properly they are awesome. But in the end I just did a stud conversion and wheel spacers..
 
What makes you say aluminium is too soft?

In compression its very strong, and lets face it under the steel inserts in your wheels, its essentially just the same as this anyway, a relatively thin piece of ally in compression transmitting the load through.

I'd be quite happy to use ally seeing as its bolted through, it would only be if the bolts were thread into ally that I would have an issue with it. (ie I wouldnt use bolt on ally hubcentric spacers for example)
 
Yea these will be taking NO laod, and you wont be screwing into them.
Ill measure up later, but im 99% sure you can fit 15mm ones and still have the bolts come through the nuts...

Just waiting for someone to confirm the ph2 hole centers, then ill get a batch made...

Price will be £35 for 15mm spacers, £30 for 10mm spacers posted in a jiffy bag.
All water jet, so no punching or bent spacers etc..
 
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Yea these will be taking NO laod, and you wont be screwing into them.
Ill measure up later, but im 99% sure you can fit 15mm ones and still have the bolts come through the nuts...

Just waiting for someone to confirm the ph2 hole centers, then ill get a batch made...

Could you confirm that 15mm will fit before I commit to purchase please :D
 
Made from whatever he is making them from.

Alloy preferably, but will take Steel if that's what you go for.

Sorry I meant to quote Ed to ask what material the quote was for.

Could you confirm that 15mm will fit before I commit to purchase please :D

I think different 1*2s have different stub axle thickness. You'd be best to get under your car and measure how much of the bolts are sticking out with you current setup.
 
Put me down for 10mm steel if possible. IMO aluminium would compress after many miles/track work hence why cheaper wheel spacers are no good, same situation. Alloy would be different but then there's the cost. Steel will weigh nothing.

I cant get any measurements of my stub axle just now as Im miles away but I would say phase 2 172 cup stub's are almost identical to the pic on page 1 with the rear mating having a raised circular part. People with 172 cup's will be fine for bolt length with 10mm or 15mm spacers. This is my 172 cup axle and they have the thickest stub axles iirc.

P1000448-1.jpg
 
What makes you say aluminium is too soft?

In compression its very strong, and lets face it under the steel inserts in your wheels, its essentially just the same as this anyway, a relatively thin piece of ally in compression transmitting the load through.

I'd be quite happy to use ally seeing as its bolted through, it would only be if the bolts were thread into ally that I would have an issue with it. (ie I wouldnt use bolt on ally hubcentric spacers for example)

Because it bowed quite easily when I did them up, put the camber and tracking miles out..

Just telling you my experiences of it..

but by all means ignore me and go waste your money..

Steel will be spot on.
 
Because it bowed quite easily when I did them up, put the camber and tracking miles out..

Did you torque down evenly in stages or muller one corner up first?
Very surprised to hear you had that issue if fitted correctly, certainly shouldnt be the case even in ally.


Steel will be spot on.

Agreed, Steel is what I personally would go for as Im not chasing a few grams of weight saving anyway.
 
Did you torque down evenly in stages or muller one corner up first?
Very surprised to hear you had that issue if fitted correctly, certainly shouldnt be the case even in ally.

Agreed, Steel is what I personally would go for as Im not chasing a few grams of weight saving anyway.

Yes I did it all properly, both sides were pretty much the same.. Took them out a week after..
 
Cups are thickest are they not Chip? I might even take 15mm if what someone said earlier in the thread is true. For every mm thick camber shim you fit it moves the wheels outer edge 20mm. So if you fit 2 degree shims shocker contact will be a issue. Mocking up with washers is required I think.
 
Morgan im running a 15mm spacer on the rear and with the pro race 1.2 ET35 I could not go any wider I may actualy take a few mill off the spacer or get a set of these in 10mm as I think on track the rear drivers side will rub.
 
Cups are thickest are they not Chip? I might even take 15mm if what someone said earlier in the thread is true. For every mm thick camber shim you fit it moves the wheels outer edge 20mm. So if you fit 2 degree shims shocker contact will be a issue. Mocking up with washers is required I think.

I was under the impression that cups were the thinnest, and that is why the cup isnt as much wider at the back as it is at the front (from the different offset alloys)
 
The quote was for aluminium.
Ill get a quote for steel tomorrow..

Still cant get anything made untill someone measures the hole centers for a ph2
Its easy, the bolts stick out the back, just measure between 2 of them :)
 
Cups are 5mm thinner than standard 172 as I came across this with p@blo.

Thats roughly what I was expecting, on the basis they are about 10mm wider rear IIRC and 20mm or so front, and the offset on the wheels is about 10mm different.

On our non cup with cup wheels, you can see the difference when parked next to a cup.
 
Put me down for 10mm steel if possible. IMO aluminium would compress after many miles/track work hence why cheaper wheel spacers are no good, same situation. Alloy would be different but then there's the cost. Steel will weigh nothing.

I cant get any measurements of my stub axle just now as Im miles away but I would say phase 2 172 cup stub's are almost identical to the pic on page 1 with the rear mating having a raised circular part. People with 172 cup's will be fine for bolt length with 10mm or 15mm spacers. This is my 172 cup axle and they have the thickest stub axles iirc.


Diameter of the raised circular part?
Ill need to make the hole in the middle the same size..

Anyone got a rough price of a ph2 stub from Renault?
 
Diameter of the raised circular part?
Ill need to make the hole in the middle the same size..

Anyone got a rough price of a ph2 stub from Renault?

Cant help you with measurements mate, im in Jordan the cars in Scotland.

15mm spacers on FF 1*2 will be bordering on unsafe for bolt length going by Chip and Carbonraider's measurments and my picture.

My et 48.5 wheels should be good then I would think with 15's and arches rolled Neil.

Anyone know how close/closer the wheels get to shocker with 2 deg camber on the back by just fitting shims with no spacers of any kind?
 
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