Team dynamics 1.2 fitment

[Barnett182]

Iv just purchased a set of team dynamic pros 1.2 15" and noticed the front wheels don't sit on the hub!

It's like they are to wide for the hub (not the center, the rim width)

Was wondering if hub centric rings would sort this or if there is something iv calculated wrong?

Do the wheels have a different center bore to a Clio 182 or are the wider?

Need help please!

 

[imprezaworks]

Yeah they will need spigot rings, cheap enough to buy.

Centre bore for the clio is 60.1, at a guess the tds will be 70 ish, but measure.

If they are say 73, you will need 73>60.1 rings

 

[imprezaworks]

As an example

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/37417808...cf5T8YnRH8mUOum3aiYMq8Q7MNPu|tkp:BFBMnMSWqcJi

 

[Barnett182]

As an example

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/37417808...cf5T8YnRH8mUOum3aiYMq8Q7MNPu|tkp:BFBMnMSWqcJi

Ok so this should sort it? I will get a picture to show you the space I have between wheel and the hub.

 

[Barnett182]

You were right buddy just took the wheel off and seen where the spacer would sit!

There's are a reason you don't work on your car in the dark...

Thanks for the help mate!

 

[imprezaworks]

No problem at all mate. Most the td's wont be clio specific unless specified when bought new. Just measure the centre bore and order the correct rings.

 

[Barnett182]

No problem at all mate. Most the td's wont be clio specific unless specified when bought new. Just measure the centre bore and order the correct rings. :smile:

Way ahead of you aha

 

[imprezaworks]

73 at a guess

 

[Barnett182]

:up::up:

:wink:

73 at a guess

73.1 to be exact mate :wink:

So the spacers you sent me were bang on buddy! :up:

 

[imprezaworks]

Cool

 

[leeds2592]

I've got spigot rings on my TD 1.2's but I read on Facebook that they aren't needed as they're only there to get it sat on the hub properly when putting the wheels on. Apparently once tightened up, they're fine without the spigot rings.

 

[imprezaworks]

Nope really not. Allways run spigot rings.

 

[leeds2592]

Nope really not. Allways run spigot rings.

For the price it's a no brainer, I'd always run them, just relaying what a few people said.

 

[imprezaworks]

Yeah i've read that also mate, and have tried without, once.

 

[JimF]

Definitely wouldn't run wheels without spigot rings. Wheel bolts aren't designed to withstand shear forces such as the weight of the car multiplied by heavy cornering forces. The spigot ring helps the wheel locate onto the raised lip of the hub (which in turn takes any shearing forces, and the wheel bolts stop the wheel from coming away from the hub.

 

[HarvB]

Definitely wouldn't run wheels without spigot rings. Wheel bolts aren't designed to withstand shear forces such as the weight of the car multiplied by heavy cornering forces. The spigot ring helps the wheel locate onto the raised lip of the hub (which in turn takes any shearing forces, and the wheel bolts stop the wheel from coming away from the hub.

This is a common misunderstanding...

The bolts don't have to carry the wheel loads - the friction from the mounting face of the wheel to the hub is where the strength is coming from, the bolts just supply the clamping force to make it work. This is why spreading copper-slip all over alloy wheel mounting faces is an absolute, total no-no - most people get away with it because there's enough pressure to displace the grease and still supply adequate force, but it's more marginal than the normal joint.

Spigot rings are to help locate the wheel onto the hub evenly, so that the wheel is perfectly centred for tightening the bolts. You can do without them if you've got the patience to get the wheel seated perfectly (i.e. very slow, methodical, cross-patterned bolt tightening to ensure it's central), otherwise the wheel isn't centralised and you get vibration. The tiny lip on the hub is just there to help seat the wheel, it's nowhere near strong enough to take cornering forces!

 

[JamesBryan]

This is a common misunderstanding...

The bolts don't have to carry the wheel loads - the friction from the mounting face of the wheel to the hub is where the strength is coming from, the bolts just supply the clamping force to make it work. This is why spreading copper-slip all over alloy wheel mounting faces is an absolute, total no-no - most people get away with it because there's enough pressure to displace the grease and still supply adequate force, but it's more marginal than the normal joint.

Spigot rings are to help locate the wheel onto the hub evenly, so that the wheel is perfectly centred for tightening the bolts. You can do without them if you've got the patience to get the wheel seated perfectly (i.e. very slow, methodical, cross-patterned bolt tightening to ensure it's central), otherwise the wheel isn't centralised and you get vibration. The tiny lip on the hub is just there to help seat the wheel, it's nowhere near strong enough to take cornering forces!

Pretty much this. If i was relying on a piece of plastic to support my wheels, i'd be very worried.

A mate of mine broke a spigot ring on his vxr, so we just bolted it on without it. Bit of a pain to do but it was fine for 1000's of miles until he could be bothered to replace it.

 

[imprezaworks]

Would allways run rings tbh. Not worth the just in case

 

[eon172]

TD supply plastic rings with their wheels, if they took significant forces in use then I expect the manufacturer would probably supply metal ones.

 

[imprezaworks]

They fit to make the wheel sit snug on the hub. Sounds like a winner to me.

 

[JamesBryan]

If I got some Team Dynamics, I'd get them to make them at the correct 60.1mm bore like a lot of the guys on here do.

 

[imprezaworks]

Yeah that would be the easiest. I was just impatient lol

 

[T.Trophy]

Use the spigot rings. Anyone who says otherwise is plain stupid.

Ive seen people in the past not use them and they've had the wheel bolts shear off.

If you don't use them you have the full weight of your car resting on your bolts, by using the rings your transferring that load to the hub instead. That way the only load your wheel bolt sees are rotational which is reduced due to the 2 mating faces (wheel to hub) being pressed against one another.

 

[Martin.]

Not true^

Do you really think a shitty little plastic ring would support any load. They can melt after one heavy track session.

The spigot ring is purely there to locate the wheel onto the hub centrally. You can do without them if careful.

ANYWAY I was going to say you can get metal spigot rings on eBay too, if you're bothered about them. I use them purely for ease, but I have done without them in the past and know of many others who still do, on and off track.

 

[T.Trophy]

I didn't say plastic spigot rings were the best solution buy it's genuinely worrying how many people think wheels are bored to match the hubs simply to make getting wheels on and off easier.......

If it was me using a set on track where I knew they would be getting hot I'd make the effort and get wheels that had the correct bore. If it's just for road use plastic spigot will be fine.

 

[JamesBryan]

There's 420nm of clamping force holding that wheel on. It isn't coming off, spigot ring or no spigot ring.

As i said in post #17