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Valver not starting when it is wet out





had a post up about my car not starting a few weeks ago.

now i have worked out that it only doesnt start when it is wet out.

even when the car hasnt moved off the drive it will not start when its raining, or been raining!!

anyone got any suggestions on what i t could be? know that things can get wet and then subsequently not start, but this is happening when the car hasnt even moved.

it wont start when wet out, the next day when it is dry again it starts no problems!

really startin to p*ss me off! any help much appreciated

cheers

Pete


[Edited by Pete-W on 11 May 2004 at 12:43pm]
 


Water in your spark plugs too? You may want to cover the bonnet in a plastic sheet until the prob is sorted and see if that works. Its surprising that water is getting in with a closed bonnet tho?
 


get some WD40 on the case mate. had a very similar problem with mine after renewing the dizzy cap and rotor arm(which were well buggered after 90k miles). left the car to stand overnight, it rained and wouldnt start the next morning. couldnt see any problem with water/damp at the spark plug end of the leads but bit of WD40 anyway. WD40 in the dizzy cap although no sign of damp there, then disconnected the lead to the coil (which was damp) and sprayed the end and all round the coil. right as rain after that. you can notice condensation on and around the coil if it is damp outside irrespective of wether the cars been moved or not.

hope it helps

smithy
 


cheers guys will have a look this eve. know there is no water in the spark plugs, and couldnt see how would get into the dizzy, will deff check in and around the coil 1st.

how do u go about gettin to the coil?
 


Righto.

Test for fuel after a few turns by looking at the plug tips for wetness, then look for a spark by placking a hooked up splug onto the engine lifting hook.
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


i would check the dizzy cap. older clios like your valver used to suffer from corrosion within the ecu due to water getting into it from it being sat in the scuttle panel. if you remove the ecu you can remove the casings and have a visual inspection of the chip board. the casing/chip board will be covered in a white dust looking stuff if its got corroded.
 


mmm first thoughts would be water down plug holes but if its not catching at all sorta puts pay to that ecu is good idea to check although if it rains once water has killed it would of thought you will be getting lots of probs
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


the ecu was a commen problem and normally created non start problems but operated ok once it dried out again.
 


so on the ecu im looking for corosion in form of white dust?

if it has corroded i assume i need a new one? how much is that going to be?

cheers

Pete
 


they not sealed as standard then, or when i go to look at it will i break the seal?

will let u know if i need an ECU

cheers
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


you can get inside the ecu by removing the four gold 20 torx screws. this way you can look at the chipboard.
 


looked at the ecu last night it is looking fine. as if moisture has not got in there and no whites dust or any signs of corrosion at all!
 
  None


sounds def like a distributer cap prob - had the same prob on my R5. Thankgod they dont make cars with them any more :D
 


mine used to do this, and it was the cap and rotor arm! got the Hillpower ignition kit (magnecor leads, rotor arm, dizzy cap and new platinum plugs) with club discount it was about £70 odd which is quite good since the leads are expensive on thier own. however a cap and arm wont be much from likes of eurocar etc
 


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