I used to have a grinding noise on hard left hand cornering. It was a sticking caliper grinding the disc apparently. A local garage added WD40 and it was fine. 4 Weeks later and its back. Can i add WD 40? If so what do i do? If i have to get some new calipers i will, but i need a temporary measure so i dont wear away my new discs and pads.
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WD 40 on calipers Williams
- Thread starter king.stromba
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- williams
I used to have a grinding noise on hard left hand cornering. It was a sticking caliper grinding the disc apparently. A local garage added WD40 and it was fine. 4 Weeks later and its back. Can i add WD 40? If so what do i do? If i have to get some new calipers i will, but i need a temporary measure so i dont wear away my new discs and pads.
leave the wd40 alone as u dont know where u need to spray it
your calipers (probably the carrier with the 2 pins in, has 2 little black rubber protective boots) needs to be stripped, cleaned and reassembled
they seem to need a lot of care and attention, ive had to do mine several times, it has a MASSIVE effect on performance, i cant begin to explain.
I had to do mine again last weekend, the initial bite now is amazing! if your calipers are sticking, it will lead to poor performance and premature failure of the discs, by means of warping
Is it hard or can i do it myself?
Well im sure i could do anything, its just a case of someone describing it well enough. I deal with some pretty complex machines at work, but then ive been properly trained on them.
ok fair enough
http://www.btinternet.com/~weightspalace/caliper.jpg
the bottom red circle is the lower carrier pin, as i said theres 2 another at the top
the caliper bolts to these pins with 2 x 13mm bolts (one on either pin) that u cant see on this pic (as there on the back of the caliper)
unbolt the caliper from the carrier
And where the caliper bolted into the carrier (those 2 sliding pins with black rubber boots on) need to be pulled out, if there stuck fast then this further proves there seized as the should slide in and out easily, they need to be extracted completley (give them an almighty tug) when ther out they need to be cleaned of any rust, dried out copper grease etc and re greased and reassembled
goes without saying but.........dont get any grease on discs, as this will contaminate ur pads and they will never work again
was wd40 used in the original development and oiling of the williams caliper in the first place though??? dont want to ruin the brakes they spent all that time developing!
It is a piss easy job consisting of 2 bolts, its not a complex machine so if you can handle them you should be able to rebuild the simple slides.
As weight says they corrode, mainly the front one and sticks in its bore.
Copper grease makes rubber components hard and brittle and specialst rubber grease for brakes should be used.
WD40 is a water dispersant, not a lubricant and should not be used on braking components.
Cheers guys.
Rob - remember that I had sticking calipers at the rear when we met last week? You recommended the WD-40 thing to me, but I just let my garage use their own rememdy, which is basically as people have described here. It worked very well and saved me the price of new rear calipers.
Im very sceptical about applying WD-40 to anywhere near the brakes. On mountain bike disc brakes, any WD-40 or similar penetrative lubricant will contaminate the braking surface and the pads. This really buggers up the braking performance. As you can imagine, this is common as people often spray a lubricant onto the chainweel, which just is on the other side of a relatively thin hub from the disc and caliper - and they get all the overspray. Like Maff says, WD-40 also thins the grease.
OK, so you can take the pads out, but removing the disc is a lot of effort and I can see the WD-40 contaminating it. So even if it does cure the problem, itll create another problem! Apply with care!
the rubber seals and the slides are avaliable in a kit if the slides are heavily corroded and wont clean up.the slide rubbers are also avaliable separatly as well if thats all you need.normally the rubbers perish and lets water in.the water creates corrosion and the slides seize.
