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which brake fluid for 16v +how much





as above,i need new discs and pads on the front of my 16v, (valver)

which dot brake fluid do i need, and how much of it.

the car is standard, so im going to keep the brakes standard.
 


use DOT 4 or DOT5.1 NOT DOT5, it is silicon based

5.1 is expensive. for normal use DOT4 is enough

Quote: Originally posted by cat171 on 13 February 2004
as above,i need new discs and pads on the front of my 16v, (valver)which dot brake fluid do i need, and how much of it.the car is standard, so im going to keep the brakes standard. 
 


no idea, if u want to change all the fluid anywhere betwheen 1 and 2 litres, depending on abs or not

Quote: Originally posted by cat171 on 13 February 2004
how much will i need to buy ??
 


Go to halfords and get some DOT 4 castrol super response synthetic fluid.

The smallest bottle will be fine for jsut the fronts.

Its fantastic fluid, less hydroscopic than others, longer service life and higherf boilng points. I use it on track and never had a problem.

Dont be tempted by any other DOT than DOT4......5 & 5.1 are useless unless your willing to change after evenry track session really.
 


brilliant !! cheers for that mate,

i have to replace the rubber hoses as well, what a great way to spend a saturday !!
 


Get a proper spanner for it from halfords or a matorfactors, it makes life far easier than stripping the unions.

Twist the calipers onto the new lines, it makes it easier.

BUt make sure the lines arent twisted when your done or youll fail your MOT>
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


Quote: Originally posted by cat171 on 14 February 2004


brilliant !! cheers for that mate,

i have to replace the rubber hoses as well, what a great way to spend a saturday !!
the caliper pipe union is a 14m which always comes undone.get a 11m brake pipe spanner for the other end.soak in penetrating oil and give the bracket a few whacks with a hammer.keep the spanner square when applying the pressure and the pipe will come undone.fit the new pipe into the caliper first and fully tighten it up then attach the other end.do it this way and it stops you getting the pipe twisted.
 


Unless the union on the solid pipe is seized on like almost all the bloody rens ive had to do....well, old ones.

b*****d things....those unions.
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


a good soak in penetrating oil ,a few sharp whacks with a hammer and a quality brake spanner always works for me.only have the odd one thats just rusted solid.use a snap on spanner as well.might be exspensive but it fits a lot better than any other ones ive had in the past.
 


got all that, but the union on the solid pipe flange sometimes just twists the copper pipe when you turn it, and bends it when you hit it.
 


i (well my dad mainly, i helped a bit) did them earlier on,

to be honest they were a piece of p*ss to do, so now ive got some brakes & new hoses, just gotta let the brakes bed in now !!

jay & ben, u 2 want to chill out boys !

;)
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


Quote: Originally posted by BenR on 15 February 2004


got all that, but the union on the solid pipe flange sometimes just twists the copper pipe when you turn it, and bends it when you hit it.
hit the bracket that it sits in on the inner wing not the pipe itself.
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


Quote: Originally posted by cat171 on 16 February 2004


i (well my dad mainly, i helped a bit) did them earlier on,

to be honest they were a piece of p*ss to do, so now ive got some brakes & new hoses, just gotta let the brakes bed in now !!

jay & ben, u 2 want to chill out boys !

;)





nowt wrong with a bit of friendly banter.
 


i know, but it mean if the union is stuck to the pipe, nothing you will do can loosen it....itll just damage the pipe
 


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