Where should i put the axle stands ?? Picture inside

[Austin-182]

Afternoon,

In the middle of trying to change lambdas. I dont feel compfortable using just the jack, plus the sills are badly bent which is what i have used to jack on at the moment.

Where can i put 2 axle stands to allow me to move the jack out the way to get under?

 

[Ads29]

I normally put them where the subframe meets those plates held on by 4 bolts in your pic, never had a problem myself

 

[jesus]

Couple of options:

 

[Austin-182]

I normally put them where the subframe meets those plates held on by 4 bolts in your pic, never had a problem myself

On the actual plate itself mate?

 

[Austin-182]

Will this be ok? Cant get it on the other part as the jack wont go high enough!

 

[Ads29]

Only where it's held against the subframe (where the two bolts are virtually next to each other) or where @jesus has used arrows, basically you need something that's more structural that the sills/floorpan and won't bend with the pressure of the stands

 

[Ads29]

Will this be ok? Cant get it on the other part as the jack wont go high enough!
View attachment 149632

That'll be fine, just make sure the stand is pretty central across there as it'll support better then

 

[jesus]

@Austin-182 my axle stands have rubber pads on that the bolt sits on, if you're using that bolt then once you've dropped the car central onto the axle stand give it a bit of a rock side to side for absolute peace of mind that it's going to stay where it should. I'd just use the big beam thing (I've never known what it is) with those stands.

 

[Austin-182]

@jesus @Ads29

Thank you for the advice.

Put 2 new lambdas on. Right hand is cut and bleeding but i have got it done at least, ha.

Not sure if you can help with this one.... The lambdas i have put on were 2nd hand from someone on here breaking a 182.

I started it up and cleared the eml light with my fault code reader.

I then re started the car and it was making an awful thudding sound. Took it for a drive and it was limiting around 3-4k and would let me go faster unless i changed gear. After about 10 minutes drive it seemed to run like normal. I have just parked up on the drive and it now seems to be running normal with no strange sounds and idling at the correct 7500 ish.

Do you think it was just because they were new that it was acting strange at first? Could it be that the exu needed a good 10 minite drive to pick things up or am i talking a load of rubbish in thinking that?

I will take it out again later and see if it is still fine.


Also, any ideas what this is?

Long thin bar? Should it wobble easily because it does. Feels as though its loose?

 

[Crybert]

Roll bar?

 

[Yosemite Sam]

That's the gear box selector rod.

Yes they wobble.

 

[Tony Hunter]

Lol rollbar. As Dan said, gear selector rod.

 

[Crybert]

Can you tell I know my stuff

 

[Austin-182]

Lol rollbar. As Dan said, gear selector rod.

Thanks Tony. Haven't seen you post on here for ages.

 

[Austin-182]

Just took it out again for another drive. Idling and running perfect, pulled up on the drive and mpg was reading 42 so feeling very pleased.

 

[Tony Hunter]

Just needed to get hot and let the ecu figure out nothing is wrong anymore.

 

[Austin-182]

Just needed to get hot and let the ecu figure out nothing is wrong anymore.

The car appears to have a missfire but not all the time. When i first drive, it gets stuck at around 3k revs and then all of a sudden kicks in and goes like normal. Then does the same again etc.

However, after a mile or so, it feels like it is running normal. Although i do still feel like its down on power.

Like i mentioned above, the sensors were used and the pre cat appeared to have been fixed at some point as the middle of the wire was electrical taped up.

Do you think that sounds like the sensor and i should just replace with brand new? Or could this have created a different issue causing the missfire?

 

[Tony Hunter]

Well, I would fit a new one anyway to start with.

 

[ilovewilly]

Couple of options:

View attachment 149630

I wouldn't recommend the larger arrow area to the right. You'll probably crush the rails, knock the under seal and eventually end up with rust.

 

[dann2707]

I wouldn't recommend the larger arrow area to the right. You'll probably crush the rails, knock the under seal and eventually end up with rust.

Have to massively disagree with this. Been using this point on the car for two years now and it appears to be the strongest part to jack. Sills just bend whereas this is the actual chassis of the car.

I thought mk2 ph2's chassis were zinc galvanised so they won't rust.

Been using the arrow on the right thus far and not dead yet.

 

[Austin-182]

Well, I would fit a new one anyway to start with.

Bought 2 brand new today. In for major belt service on Wednesday this week so them with me as dont have the time to fit myself between now and then.

Lesson learnt, not to worry it was good experience anyway.

 

[Tony Hunter]

Not saying it'll cure it, but I'd want to eliminate that area, before going any further.

 

[Budgie]

Yep, I've had cars on the driveway for five years using the chassis rail, and only ever even slightly bent one once.

Strongest part IMO.

 

[Cup1/2Full]

I'm searching these threads so I don't bend anything with my new axle stands, especially the chassis

 

[MRBILLYUK]

I use the chassis rails for the front as @dann2707 @Budgie say. Jacking up the rear i drop the car onto axle stands under the rear beam. Never had a problem this way.