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Clutch replaced but Immobiliser light solid and wont start, Help
- Thread starter Leo182
- Start date
Mr Trailer Man
ClioSport Club Member
Have a look in the fusebox, 3 brown relays in a row E, G, J.
J is the immo relay, swap that with the top one E, that's the low speed AC fan so not important at this time.
J is the immo relay, swap that with the top one E, that's the low speed AC fan so not important at this time.
davo172
ClioSport Club Member
TCR'd 172
Bet he's plugged the obd reader in and it says no faults so car must be perfect!
(Today's definition of a "mechanic")🙄
Leo182
ClioSport Club Member
Blk/Gld 182 Cupped
He's a decent guy and he's definitely not like that! some would have give up long ago I'm sure but this lad is one of those who doesn't like to be defeated!!
It will probably end up being something really daft because its French !
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
I’ve been through this Renault diagnostic nightmare too - non-Renault tools spitting out codes left and right. Your fault codes (DF002, DF057, DF135, DF235, DF236, DF152, DF076) are interconnected, likely triggered by the car not starting rather than being the root cause. I had 20+ codes on my Clio, different ones each scan, but none were the actual issue. Renault electrics are a dark art, but here’s what I’d do based on my limited, but similar experience.
I'd start with DF057 Immobiliser System Fault as this is why your red immobiliser light is solid and the car won’t start. It points to a communication issue between the key, transponder ring, immobiliser module, or ECU. I had a knackered transponder ring on my track car - kept removing/refitting the cowling, and it’d start sometimes, and not others. It was just loose.
Then try:
These (air temp sensor, camshaft sensor, injector circuit) are likely false positives from the immobiliser or CAN bus fault. Clear them after testing the above and see if they return.
I found my issue by switching off “smart scan” on my diagnostic and tried connecting to each module. Couldn’t connect to the ECU, which pointed me to a worn wire under the main fuse to the starter motor. Took two weeks and help from @Brigsy , but it was my rough hands disturbing a frail wire during work.
Check all wiring touched during the clutch job - something’s likely been knocked. I've found it's always something that i've done, so start from the beginning.
Failing all that, get it out of his garage and to a Renault specialist who has the right gear and knows what they are doing.
I'd start with DF057 Immobiliser System Fault as this is why your red immobiliser light is solid and the car won’t start. It points to a communication issue between the key, transponder ring, immobiliser module, or ECU. I had a knackered transponder ring on my track car - kept removing/refitting the cowling, and it’d start sometimes, and not others. It was just loose.
Then try:
- Spare Key: Use it to rule out a faulty transponder chip in the main key.
- Immobiliser Module: Look at the module (near the fuse box) for loose connectors.
- Battery Reset: Disconnect the battery for 10–15 minutes to reset the system.
- Check its wiring and connector for damage or looseness.
- Test or replace it (cheap part and common issue).
- Check the fuel pump relay (swap with an identical one) and its fuse.
- Listen for the fuel pump hum when you turn the key to “on.” If silent, check pump wiring.
- Inspect wiring near the gearbox and ECU for damage or loose plugs.
- If wiring’s fine, a Renault specialist with CLIP can diagnose module issues.
These (air temp sensor, camshaft sensor, injector circuit) are likely false positives from the immobiliser or CAN bus fault. Clear them after testing the above and see if they return.
I found my issue by switching off “smart scan” on my diagnostic and tried connecting to each module. Couldn’t connect to the ECU, which pointed me to a worn wire under the main fuse to the starter motor. Took two weeks and help from @Brigsy , but it was my rough hands disturbing a frail wire during work.
Check all wiring touched during the clutch job - something’s likely been knocked. I've found it's always something that i've done, so start from the beginning.
Failing all that, get it out of his garage and to a Renault specialist who has the right gear and knows what they are doing.
Last edited:
lemonnobby
ClioSport Club Member
Check the 12v battery. Any decoder ring faults in uch what does the live data say in uch.
Is the immobiliser light stuck on?
Them faults you have on the screen makes it sound like you have a broken wire with ignition on do you get the throttle body working?
Is the immobiliser light stuck on?
Them faults you have on the screen makes it sound like you have a broken wire with ignition on do you get the throttle body working?
