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Rojer's 200T

Did a buy from AutoDoc £66.44 delivered. Not bad to be fair, now hoping it arrives un damaged! 🤞🏼🙏🏼
 
Looks like @Sash was right. Changed the pipe to the silicone one and it now seems dry. Must have had a pin hole as it always felt quite dry. I'll keep monitoring it and I have a rocker gasket now in case I need it.

PXL_20260626_202801811.MP.webp
 
It's been one of those days. Started full of hope, but the Clio loves to piss on it.

Took it to get it's AC refilled. Told it was all good no leaks. I get in and its roasting hot, go back to the garage, they test it and its hot. Plug it in and no codes. It has gas in it still and they are adamant it was working. Get it home to test the compressor and can hear/feel/see it working. Can also see the clutch engage but still hot. Check the bottom pipe and it looks like it has a pin hole leak. Not sure if that is enough for it not to work, but I will replace it and go from there. The top pipe is cold though so it must be doing something and I can see pressure in the system.

1783020655112.webp


1783020540699.webp



Whilst I was messing around I noticed the undertray was wet so pulled it off to find a nice gearbox leak. Traced it back to the fill plug.


1783020691406.webp


Cleaned it all up and managed to get another quarter turn on the plug at least. Took it for a drive and its now bone dry so that's sorted. I seem to have 3 different part numbers for the AC line so if anyone could confirm or offer any advice on why it might not be working that would help.

I know @charltjr fitted a new flap motor and every time i get in the car I can hear it clicking. Not sure if this is normal @Adey. @Sash if not is there a certain process to fit it, or does it have to go in a certain position?
 
Do these suffer with the same issues as the MK2s with the flapper box and cog that strips itself so stuck on hot?

If you had a leak that equalled hot air, would be a very obvious oily mess with dye.
 
Ant1 said:
Do these suffer with the same issues as the MK2s with the flapper box and cog that strips itself so stuck on hot?

If you had a leak that equalled hot air, would be a very obvious oily mess with dye.
Click to expand...

The leak is very small and slow, so I don't expect that to stop the whole system from working. I think it's possibly the flap motor 🤔
 
Rojer said:
The leak is very small and slow, so I don't expect that to stop the whole system from working. I think it's possibly the flap motor 🤔
Click to expand...

Looks like there are two flap motors, because of course there are. The one I replaced controls air direction and looks like this:

1783026529679.webp


Heater blend door actuator 277429948R​


But there is also this one

1783026677952.webp


Which has different OE part numbers

1783026801284.webp


With the advent of AI slop it’s a bugger to find anything really useful, but it looks like that second motor has something to do with temperature control.
 
Rojer said:
The leak is very small and slow, so I don't expect that to stop the whole system from working. I think it's possibly the flap motor 🤔
Click to expand...
If the AC system is leaking there’s no way it’ll be holding at 22 bar.

Have you got any pictures? Where’s your ‘leak’ on the system in terms of schematically?

IMG_6847.webp


If it had a leak, most systems would cut out on low pressure, compressor wouldn’t turn on etc.
 
He's just had it filled up, if its a small leak it will hold decent pressure for quite some time. One of my cars had a small leak and the AC would work for most of summer.

@Rojer is it worth doing a fluid level check on gearbox? Looked like a fair amount of fluid and I can imagine these gearboxes are a bit fussy over levels.

As for AC - you're probably right about the flap however some cars have a coolant bypass valve for the heater, this could be the blend flap on yours? But on other cars they have a solenoid to fully bypass the hot coolant going through the cabin heater core - if thats stuck the AC won't be cooling anything.

Edit - seems your system just has a flap and an expansion valve. If the compressor is spinning, and the flap is working then I would suspect the expansion valve which is solenoid controlled.
 
Rob said:
If the AC system is leaking there’s no way it’ll be holding at 22 bar.

Have you got any pictures? Where’s your ‘leak’ on the system in terms of schematically?

View attachment 1793894

If it had a leak, most systems would cut out on low pressure, compressor wouldn’t turn on etc.
Click to expand...


Its the pipe at the bottom of the condenser.

Touring_Rob said:
He's just had it filled up, if its a small leak it will hold decent pressure for quite some time. One of my cars had a small leak and the AC would work for most of summer.

@Rojer is it worth doing a fluid level check on gearbox? Looked like a fair amount of fluid and I can imagine these gearboxes are a bit fussy over levels.

As for AC - you're probably right about the flap however some cars have a coolant bypass valve for the heater, this could be the blend flap on yours? But on other cars they have a solenoid to fully bypass the hot coolant going through the cabin heater core - if thats stuck the AC won't be cooling anything.

Edit - seems your system just has a flap and an expansion valve. If the compressor is spinning, and the flap is working then I would suspect the expansion valve which is solenoid controlled.
Click to expand...

Looking at the diagram, its showing this.

10 and 9 are the same, but different part numbers and it matches what @charltjr replaced. 5 and 12 also have the same part number so maybe there are two of them. Number 11 is the blower resistor and the fan speed works fine so doubt its related. I will have to attack the dash later and see what I can find. @Touring_Rob any idea where the expansion valve could be?

1783062517587.webp




@charltjr When i search the part numbers you gave for the other actuator, it seems to come up with this one 277322711R and shows it as 15 on this diagram.


1783063077894.webp
 
Last edited:
Just ordered an OE Denso 277322711R for £17 on Ebay, seeing as it's called the AC actuator flap, I reckon that's what the clicking/problem is so worth replacing is as it so cheap.
 
Just had a look mate

So
3 and 5 on the screen shot are a definite no go as they are for left hand drive models.

1,2 and 4 left over and the difference between 2 and 3 is the type of gas used. If you check under your bonnet there will be a sticker and fingers crossed it's 2,to make it easier.

What I can't understand is the difference between 1 and 4 as they use the same gas and there's no obvious difference to what I can see.

tmp_74f42cdc-ea3d-43fb-a3e7-637a6b2615c4.webp
 
dann2707 said:
Just had a look mate

So
3 and 5 on the screen shot are a definite no go as they are for left hand drive models.

1,2 and 4 left over and the difference between 2 and 3 is the type of gas used. If you check under your bonnet there will be a sticker and fingers crossed it's 2,to make it easier.

What I can't understand is the difference between 1 and 4 as they use the same gas and there's no obvious difference to what I can see.

View attachment 1793935
Click to expand...


Thank you for checking. It would be 1 or 4 as it's the older style gas.
 
Two different Renault dealers confirmed it's the one ending in 851 and it's 211+ vat and needs to come from France.
 
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