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My cheap(ish) 172 Cup

There’s a lot for me to look into here. Thanks for the links and advice, guys. This problem has been the worst issue with the car as it’s taken a lot of effort and attempts the solve it. I won’t be doing the job but I’ll probably be the one ordering the parts.
 
Maybe one job has been sorted out today. I had a look at the top of the carbon canister from inside the engine bay and when I touched it it was just sat loose. I undid the clips that hold the wiring and the vent tube and lifted it so I could blow into the end to make sure it was not blocked. I cleaned up the seal as best I could and lubricated the very small old ring. Everything looked okay except for that big seal being very worn. I placed the top back over the canister and gave it a push down with a long screwdriver and it seemed to click into place. Hopefully this has solved the problem, but I will keep an eye on it just in case it comes loose again.

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Even though I have had the gearbox linkage repair carried out, and this made a massive difference to the noise and the gear change, there is still a knocking noise. I know to change the bushings under the gear stick, so that is ongoing. but if you listen to the sound that needs two videos you can clearly hear there is still something touching underneath. I’m not putting too much force on the engine to rocket back and forth but just enough to get it to wobble. It sounds like something is touching the exhaust or the exhaust is touching on something else. It’s going to need some further investigation into this and that means it needs to be up on a ramp.

I will post a video later because I’m below ground level at the moment and the signal is terrible.
 
Right, first up is the gear linkage . Even though this has had work done you can see on this video that there is still play in this joint. The nut is tight and after I took this video, I put a little bit of copper slip into where the gap is. The car changes gear really well and there are no issues with the gearbox (Mark rebuilt it so we know that it is 100%). Is this amount of play in this joint normal? If so, I can forget about this end and just focus on sorting out under the gear stick.
Ignore the leaf blowing noisy t**t in the background!
 
I’ll also post here the video of me rocking the engine back-and-forth and hopefully you can hear the noise that I can hear. It could just be that this was the girl in cage before I added a bit of copper slip into that joint. Christ only knows!
 
And finally for today is the wonderful carbon canister. So, I’ve reattached it, took the car for a drive and when I came back I can hear this clicking noise from the fuel tank area when I switched the engine off. I’m guessing that this is excess pressure being released somewhere and because it’s making a noise that is why the carbon canister was disconnected. What are my options on this? I’m guessing that I can’t just blank off the rigid black plastic pipe that leads from the engine to the canister itself so should I change the valve that pushes into the carbon canister? Or should I leave it as it is now or just do the whole delete thing?
 

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What exactly was changed on the gear linkage? and was it like-for-like? I have come across different versions that are not compatible. To answer your question no that amount of movement is not normal.

Regarding the engine knock when moved, it shouldn't do that either. To me it sounds clonky metallic - could be loose fuel rail guard or a loose engine mount assuming its definitely in the bay.

And I have never heard a fuel tank vent/pressurise like that, the carbon canister should click but that's the wrong end of the car.... I would start by removing the canister and blocking the sensors holes and see where that gets you to troubleshoot. At least that way the tank is venting to atmosphere and can't pressurise.

Might be quicker to list the things that do work on the car
 
What exactly was changed on the gear linkage? and was it like-for-like? I have come across different versions that are not compatible. To answer your question no that amount of movement is not normal.

Regarding the engine knock when moved, it shouldn't do that either. To me it sounds clonky metallic - could be loose fuel rail guard or a loose engine mount assuming its definitely in the bay.

And I have never heard a fuel tank vent/pressurise like that, the carbon canister should click but that's the wrong end of the car.... I would start by removing the canister and blocking the sensors holes and see where that gets you to troubleshoot. At least that way the tank is venting to atmosphere and can't pressurise.

Might be quicker to list the things that do work on the car

Yeah. My blower works well :ROFLMAO: which was another item that I changed myself !

I'm going to pull the top of the canister again and see if the noise stops. I only noticed this issue when it was very warm recently as I could get a whiff of fuel every now and then. I'll be back.....

Ok. I popped the valve out of the canister and just left it so that the rubber o-ring is loose on top of the hole, so i that it's not in fully. After running the car for about 2 minutes I switched it off and there's no sound from the back.
 
Carbon canister open to air should throw an EML light if not plugged (I think) - maybe the solenoid is goosed hence it not venting and pressurising the tank.

No idea if that's true but it sounds plausible.

 
Carbon canister open to air should throw an EML light if not plugged (I think) - maybe the solenoid is goosed hence it not venting and pressurising the tank.

No idea if that's true but it sounds plausible.

I've read through a lot of posts on here about it. I agree that it could be the solenoid but I don't have an EML on and have never had that. I think the easiest thing to do is to get a new solenoid and fit it as all the other parts look fine. I think this car was owned by people who when they found a problem just disconnected or removed it.

My parts cannon is fully lubed!
 
If no EML then just remove the canister and zip-tie the faulty solenoid out the way 👀 Think how much faster it will be with the weight savings
I'd rather that it works and I don't want to remove parts that are original. I'll get a new part, try it and if it doesn't work i'll sell my arse to get a GR Yaris.
 
Carbon canister open to air should throw an EML light if not plugged (I think) - maybe the solenoid is goosed hence it not venting and pressurising the tank.

My solenoid was hanging in mid air and no eml :LOL: usually only comes on if valve faulty or removed.

The clicking was annoying with no canister so i removed it and fitted a resistor to keep ecu happy.
 
My solenoid was hanging in mid air and no eml :LOL: usually only comes on if valve faulty or removed.

The clicking was annoying with no canister so i removed it and fitted a resistor to keep ecu happy.
It seems that if the electrics to it are ok and it's left hanging you'll never know there's an issue unless you smell fuel.
 
I’ll also post here the video of me rocking the engine back-and-forth and hopefully you can hear the noise that I can hear. It could just be that this was the girl in cage before I added a bit of copper slip into that joint. Christ only knows!
View attachment 1799038
'Gear linkage' There were no girls in a cage during filming :ROFLMAO: Fcuking iPhone can't understand English!
 
Looking at my video of the gear linkage again I can say i've no idea what was done. I can only guess that there is a bush inside that fits better than the previous one simple because the gear change is better and there's less noise than before. It's still not perfect in that the noise it makes is not what the car should be doing.

However.....I have an idea. I am going to buy some brass washers and fit one of each side where there is movement. There is enough thread on the linkage to allow for that and it should stop all of that movement. I'm going to try this first before going onto the gear stick bushings as that will be a job someone else will do (Birchdown won't thank me for it lol). The photo is obviously not from my car but it shows where I'll fit the washers.
 

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I’ll also post here the video of me rocking the engine back-and-forth and hopefully you can hear the noise that I can hear. It could just be that this was the girl in cage before I added a bit of copper slip into that joint. Christ only knows!
View attachment 1799038

I could rock my engine by hand before replacing my top engine mount - now it's solid - but It didn't make that noise.
 
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