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Tether. End of.

I had to injectors fail didn't notice they were gone until they car was being a pain starting. With the sensor thing just make sure the pipe is still attatched
 
I think your best bet really is to take the injectors out to check them. My offer still stands to talk you through it
 
Thanks a lot buddy, nice to know. :)

I'm going to give it to the garage properly instead of taking it back all the time and not giving them a proper chance to see what's going on after getting insured on her car. Can't find the time these days to D.I.Y.
 
£800-odd quid I've been quoted.

Boost pipework replaced
Fuel pump replaced
Fuel filter replaced
Pump cover (didn't quite catch this bit) replaced
No.2 Injector replaced and re-coded
Timing Belt + Kit
Labour - £250ish
Parts - £550ish
Total - £800ish

= SKINTO

He says this might not even restore it to full health, it'll resolve the glow plug issue but to fully 100% be certain of a proper restoration he says all the injectors need to be replaced, and there's absolutely no point in that. If this work makes the car driveable and keeps it driveable for the next 140,000 miles then I'm happy.
 
No faults anymore guys.

Got two injectors replaced, boost pipework replaced and a new genuine Renault fuel pump.

This cleared all the errors but it's still cutting out when I put the boot to the floor. Strange, but best it's going to get I feel.

Just letting you know. :)
 
well done mate. i would still replace all injectors. when its running can you see air bubbles in the fuel pipes?
 
I thought about it, I really did but decided financially, although I'm financially in a position to do it, our house deposit comes first and the car still works, I just can't boot it.

Will look for air bubbles, what could that be if there are?

Also car is now being filled up using Shell Extra or V Power only. Next service @ 72k (it's on 65k).
 
in the sender unit in the tank. the fuel has to go through a strainer and if that is completely blocked(mine was) it will draw in air from the tank
 
yes your car cant run on air. and obviously the more you put your foot down the more air that gets drawn in hence cutting out. well mine did anyway
 
nope just under the rear bench seat take the cover off the sender unit (3 screws) then with a hammer and a big blunt screwdriver unscrew the ring holing the sender unit in. take the sender unit out and clean the strainer.
 
Also just found out if I put a full tank in it it leaks slightly underneath the drivers seat? Could that be related?

/my dad mentioned it last night, the c*nt.
 
means you need a new ring and seal for the sender unit.£25 from thew stealers. while your changing it you can check the strainer on the sender unit
 
lol no problem. oh yer i would wear gloves when taking the ring off as the metal is sharp if you slip off the screwdriver or something like that
 
What's that mate?

Also got these faults now:

5 faults now.

Minimun fuel pressure
Maximum fuel pressure
Faulty fuel pressure
Accelaration sensor fault
Injector no.2 fault

Work done so far:

New genuine fuel pump
New fuel filter
New injector
Refurbed injector
New boost pipework
New glow plugs
New relay
 
got to be the loom surely?

Broken wires bad connections will throw all sorts of faults. You could replace everything thats in fault 100 times and it still wouldnt be right
 
What's that mate?

Also got these faults now:

5 faults now.

Minimun fuel pressure
Maximum fuel pressure
Faulty fuel pressure
Accelaration sensor fault
Injector no.2 fault

Work done so far:

New genuine fuel pump
New fuel filter
New injector
Refurbed injector
New boost pipework
New glow plugs
New relay

got to be the loom surely?

Broken wires bad connections will throw all sorts of faults. You could replace everything thats in fault 100 times and it still wouldnt be right


Im not an expert by no means, but at the rear of the engine there should/would of been a blackbox that "protects" some ECU wires of some sort. The box rubs and damages the wires throwing up all sorts.

I've read to remove box if there and repair and insulate each wire separately.
 
But that wouldn't physically cause it not to start?

Cause it would. If somethings shorted/broken ecu might be getting wrong info/no signal. Wouldnt take much really. Just a thought, loom faults are common on the 1.2 16v's
 
Interesting! Never considered the ECU itself could be faulty. Once it's cleared it's fine for about 5 days, then it all goes t1ts up again.
 
I realise that this is most likely pissing in the wind, but try replacing the earth straps. I remember having problems with a derv clio we converted from petrol and it turned out to be a crappy earth strap. Therefore throws the electrics out.
 
any chance of a bit more info on the bubbles in the lines problem?
I am having some starting issues with my van, - it doesnt like it
i can see bubbles in the lines under the bonnet.

i changed air filter, glow plugs and cleaned egr valve. no major difference
i bought a fuel filter (to be fitted)

should i take a look at the sender unit. is it a messy job? should i wait until tank is basically empty or will it be fine?

cheers
 
I've got a fuel leak and a possible blocked strainer, going into the garage on Sat. Think this could have been the problem all along.

It's a £45 job, and I may have spent well over £900 unnesseraliy (ffs sp? Too early).
 
Ok so it's going into the garage in two weeks time (the guy's on holiday argh!).

He's going to:

Drop out the tank, check it, replace the f*cked seal, put new pipework on it, and check the strainer.

Still not starting properly and chucking out horrendous amounts of white smoke when it finally starts.
 
I feel for you reading this thread!

But me being me would HAVE to see it fixed for good with no faults for peace of mind - keep at it!
 
any chance of a bit more info on the bubbles in the lines problem?
I am having some starting issues with my van, - it doesnt like it
i can see bubbles in the lines under the bonnet.

i changed air filter, glow plugs and cleaned egr valve. no major difference
i bought a fuel filter (to be fitted)

should i take a look at the sender unit. is it a messy job? should i wait until tank is basically empty or will it be fine?

cheers

its a messy job yes. i would let the tank run to under a quarter of a tank have so cloths ready and have some patience. its an idea to replace the locking ring and seal around the sender aswell.
 
Think disconnecting the battery would do anything?

It's not taking as long to start now, maybe 3-4 seconds but the light is still on.

No loss of MPG, unfortunately I don't know if it's performing 100% because it's never been 100% since it's been in my ownership.

It still pulls even though all the lights are flashing, but whether it pulls like it should, I've no idea.
 
Words cannot describe how utterly furious I am at the moment.

My car gave up the f**king ghost tonight, 25 miles away from home. Pulled up to a junction, and heard BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG on it's idle, whoaps, that's not good but drove about half a mile to my destination anyway. Got there, opened up the bonnet all the while this is banging away fairly rapidly and very loudly, burny smoke coming from what looked the fuel pump, somewhere in that area.

No idea what it is, but looks like whatever has been giving me problems has finally killed itself and/or the engine.

The specialist is on holiday for a week, so no idea where I'm going to get it towed to. Got a lift home from the in-laws.

Any ideas guys? Really feeling sick at the moment considering spent over a grand so far.

:dead:
 
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