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Possibly a fuel or ignition related issue, maybe even H02 but without plugging it in and seeing the live data when it's actually happening it will be a tricky one to accurately finger i'm afraid. Has anything been done to it prior to this issue (Someone hasn't been washing the engine bay for...

Widen the search then but really you need CLIP to really speed things up as it'll tell you exactly what isn't on CAN. From there you can start to understand the problem and then fix it. It may not be fuse related and be a broken wire or poor earth.

You would have to go a long way to actually destroy a Sirius 32/34 as they're tough mutha f*****s! I've seen someone put the battery terminals the wrong way and it survived that and actual failures, whilst they happen, are extremely rare. What problems are you actually having to make you...

Impossible to say really now you've been at the wiring. The car needs CLIP and a network test to see what's not happy as it's most likely going to be due to your "mods" hehehe

Beanie is in MK, Fred/BTM is in Birmingham, We're in Nottingham. Beanie will hook you up

just this one wheel? Off the bat and without seeing the car, I suspect bump stops and the tyre is rubbing on the bumper bracket

Put it back to standard and see if it fixes it

Don't worry about the cams or the followers/lifters, they look ok and only get damaged if a rocker is flipped off and then becomes jammed under a lobe. Stop messing around and pull the head off it... it's going to have to happen so come to terms with it lolz. Then take the valves out (Enjoy...

That's simply saying the clockset is missing fuel level information. Check your fuel pump is getting power and if not, go to the fuses in the engine bay.

Most likely an open circuit on the CTS wiring rather than the sensor itself causing it to default to -40 BUT try wiggling the sensor first and see if the data stream updates. I've seen a few non-genuine items do similar things before.

And you need the tools to be able to re-time this engine - Many have tried without and most have failed.

The engine has no compression... the valves need replacing. Remove the cylinder head in situ, leaving the bottom end and gearbox in the bay. Easy enough and a couple of hours work

Just because the diff is a bolt in doesn't mean the heads haven't snapped off. Also, as above by @loggyboy the speedo wouldn't rise on a 182 due to the speedo being driven by ABS signal. You need to check all CV joints, inner and outer. This means remove them from the hubs. If they're all good...

it does sound very much like the belt has slipped the timing - Who did the belt change and do you have the receipt/invoice detailing the job?

Or just solder on a two pole PTM and it'll work again perfectly without any need to f**k around.

Yes, that you can do to IF you can get the card open of course. But we're not talking about a Scenic or Keycards here are we? Officially though, you're not supposed to do that.

Old keys used a clip in chip and these were easy to move/lose. Newer keys, as per the 1*2 are soldered to the board and cannot simply be moved over.

Yes, that works if you move the original S3 from one PCB to the other but using a 2nd hand key won't let your car start as you cannot re-program an S3. The vehicles security code is stored and that's it, its in there for good

You 100% cannot use the method above to sync a virgin key as that's not how PIN security works. You will need a new key i'm afraid OR as above, solder a button to the PCB. Its very easy and if you take your time will win.

manual adjustment on the D7F IIRC

That should be doing around 43mpg but it depends how you're driving it. No, an inefficient HO2 wouldn't ping up an MIL but this is where live data helps fill in the blanks. Needs a proper check up by someone that isn't just doing a code reading session I'm afraid. When we're plugs last changed...

They look like V-Maxx - terrible

We would be able to see realtime misfire % rates per cylinder along with average misfire rate, actual knock correction and timing advance values fella. I didn't mean for that "Don't clear the codes" line to sound like I was singling you out either, it was intended to the OP

I was at Race for Life yesterday with the wife and I saw my first Apple Watch in the wild. Looked properly s**t with the fashion band, was not impressed.

You need to check the dimensions as already mentioned above: 1 - Piston to Bore clearance 2 - Ring gap

Don't clear the codes! I cannot stress this enough as generic readers cannot see what we refer to as "contextual Information" This is snap shot information of key live data streams which the ECU uses to class the issue as a fault and raise that fault. Clearing this info makes it harder to track.

Reading fault codes is like looking at a fit woman in a night club... And she wants you. You know she's a f**king bunny boiler with sever daddy issues but you don't know the full story and she will infact cut your c**k off and shove t in your arse whilst you're sleeping! You need to understand...

Diagnostics > Misfire detection > Specific cylinder misfire?

As above already, it is perfectly normal chap.

Afraid so unless the old UCH was doing exactly the same