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Perfectly ok for track use. Car builder solutions do a similar item for less than half the cost

@scullyg40 I'll be watching with interest as to how much you save from the doors by gutting them and going poly/lexan windows.

Looking to see what others are using and if they could tell me the overall depth of the boss, ideally looking for as shallow a boss/hub adaptor as i can get. Never really been happy with the placement of the steering wheel, always been too close. Currently use a generic adaptor for a clio and...

I think if you want to get anywhere near 5k, never mind 7k you will have to break it. I may be wrong but i cannot fathom why someone would pay 5k for a clio with a broken engine. Running and driving turbo or high spec NA clios often sell for less.

I priced up the ecu, dash, GPS module etc last year an was over 2k! Not cheap but the features are awesome

I had looked at those membrane panels before, opted against it as from memory each channel could only handle 10amps

Engine bay looks soooooo much better with ABS, power steering, battery, fuse box etc removed.

If running an aftermarket ecu and dash it simplifies the wiring no end, or go PH1 ecu etc and delete the UCH entirely then create your own wiring loom for lights etc.

Worth noting, not all laptops can communicate via the serial port

Contemplated selling as i have an itch to build a classic mini.

Out an out track car for the bare minimal electrical items needed beyond ecu, look at a switchpros SP9100. Less channels than the cartek but does the same job

I honestly don’t know how you can be arsed with it anymore. Parts taking 7 months is absurd, not being able to figure out what’s to be done is ridiculous. Also not being able to put a fixed date on when it will be together an ready for mapping is crazy. More power to you for keeping going

It will be fine even without heat shielding

Dash looks good. Where’s it from?

Speak to dave at SOS motorsport in falkirk, he can map it for you.

Looking for a complete wiring diagram for a PH1 172. I have a copy of the diagrams for a PH2, but would ideally like to see the diagrams for the PH1. Anybody have a copy they can email me or a link to them? Thanks

The torque spread is great. above 150 from 2600rpm to 6700rpm

#scrapper

Try Reis motorsport insurance

I set my AST top mounts to full castor, and used camber bolts for camber.

KAM racing do a top mount that is essentially the same as AST for half the cost

@scullyg40 does your speedometer not work?

Older PMS shifters didn’t centre and were stiff. Revised bearing design and mine self centres and isn’t stiff

@bloke which wilwood caliper would you recommend? they have so many 4 pot calipers available. I had a set on a previous clio and tbh i wasn't overly impressed with them.

Alot of the project has been over engineered tbh

I thought the same when they were doing the wiring. Although it will all have to come out again when they strip it for painting, assume they want to do a complete dry build before stripping it all back again for finishing

Where did the F1’s go?

Removed AST's so i can sell them

How would you propose fixing it or at least improving it to an acceptable standard

@neil a switch pro do a decent panel. SP-9100 i’m Sure is the model