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use the megane head gasket and it will allow you to keep the rest of the block and head as per the standard clio 172/182

possibly deliberate because its fun?

Luck I suppose. Plus it needs one ?? Going to SMM for it? Full 8 point to the front towers etc?

@vroomtshh proper cage time?

Looks good only comment i would make is that rivnuts would have been better for the fuel pump cover. What if you need in to the plug/ fuel pump in future?

I know all about them, i was more referring to the deal you had managed to get. As its something i'm looking to do but cant bring myself to spend the £££ they advertise for on the website

details on the PDP's?

Have the engine loom built by omex, lights, PAS loom etc either use a cartek PDP as bloke suggests it you could use the car builder solutions fuse board. What are you using as dash?

I have ran mine via bulkhead connectors, as god for bid you have a big off i wouldn't want one of the lines being pulled and fraying/bursting inside the car and spraying fuel everywhere.

did you order the bare one or anodised black?

This R3 rail sounds like what I’m after. Any details on it @NorthloopCup

@JamesBryan helpful yes as it tells me that they read lower than a 182. What do your fronts do? Also interested as to what values a cup typically produces.

@bloke the brakes are plumbed in as per this diagram

a bit of both. Figures are lower than I would have expected, also under braking it pulls left although when I stuck it on the brake tester there was an imbalance across the front which I am in the process of resolving.

Nope standard handbrake. Do you have typical values or a print out of a clio so I can compare? Literally every part of the braking system is new. So I need ballpark figures to work from

Nope cup non ABS master cylinder. Plumbed in as per the R-Sport manual/diagram

@bloke Full rear. Fronts were 280/290

@bloke without going to the garage to check the sheet.....rears were in the region of 120 KGF

For a non cup yes, for a cup I’m not sure. I have a custom brake line set up with bias valve. Just trying to figure out if the rear effort is too low or about right

Looking to find out what values people have typically seen in the MOT brake test for a 172 cup? Preferably in KGF although I can convert to KN if need be.

To some of the comments above. I know he "has a crust to earn". That being said, he is charging for the work on the trophy.........therefore if he spends a day on it he charges his rate for the day. Its not complicated. Also understand this thread is a mere scratch on the surface of what needs...

I don’t think it’s a witch hunt at all. It’s a simple matter of facts, a year down the line and as far as i can tell from this project thread, not much has changed

What a change of tune this has taken! Not looked in a while an regrettably it has gone the direction I always assume it would. As many above have said a serious discussion needs taking place and a proper plan of action needs to be formed and adhered too. You are paying Mick to do the work (I...

Looks superb

I honestly do not have any idea how you can still be bothered with this build. Surely it has to be finished soon!?

Unfortunately not no. You would need a full flat floor, properly designed splitters front and rear and then a ride height that would make use of them. On a clio its a waste of time really

There is a lot of the original wiring that can be removed. heater, stereo, electric mirrors, windows, airbags.......list goes on. In all honesty for what you save weight wise it genuinely isn't worth the hassle.

complete waste of time, purely for visual effect. spend your money on more track time

He is running a DTA ecu and a cartek control panel. So he doesn't have any of the Renault electrics left, completely different set up to your GEN90 set up

Haha i wish! I am hoping its not the sender, but i think it might be unfortunately.