Search results

Have it plugged in

It's not 1960 anymore - Instead of guessing, why not just have it plugged in for a proper diagnostic session and then know what is wrong? Personally i'd not suspect any of the above suggestions: Coils/Leads and it's more likely to be H02 or CTS related

Sounds like a coolant leak. Any competent garage should be able to tackle this for you but i'd guess at Radiator or water pump leaking myself.

It'll be too late now. Whenever something goes wrong with the cooling circuit the first thing to go wrong is the heater output.

Coolant level okay? Heater temp output still hot?

Jesus, I had heard it was bad Tony but I can't believe this has happened and to such an extent. I wouldn't be able to look you in the eye of that were me.

If you're worried have the cars rear brakes tested by a local MOT station (Foot brake and parking brake). They should record *some* effort as people seem to think the VOSA note on this subject indemnifies them from having a functioning rear brake circuit on the 172 Cup but the actual figure...

I have one for the wife and I love it but don't expect any Turbo like traits in standard form. It drives like an NA 1600 and you wouldn't really know it's a Turbo. Ours manages 43mpg and we're only getting rid as the family is growing so we are looking at the 1.6dCi Scenics

I believe it would be an H plate Mk1 Nissan Micra in Gold with matching beige bumpers and fetching brown velour interior. My bike has wider tyres

Lucky! I'm just average hehehe

Is that what the wife says?

That'll be my Ginger locks ;-)

But the electronics in the car are still standard (UCH, Instrument Cluster)? If so you need something basic that can do VVC

172 Cup or X65 Cup racer Andy? Is it standard electronics or completely barebones?

What car is it going in?

Nope, no reset required. Just clean it!

It means you have an electronic fault and really ought to have the car looked at.

They are still there as I ordered a set last Sunday which arrived on the Tuesday - Pretty good service I thought

Just remove the FPS

From memory: White - 5v Black - Earth Yellow - Signal

That does indeed seem high for a standard car but it's not about the numbers. What does the graph look like?

You are using the correct14mm Dia tool?

Posted this earlier for someone else... After its all been tightened and the engine turned over by hand this is how it should go: https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=683120918421608&id=115299135203792 You really need to see what it's doing electronically or on a Dyno to gauge whether...

That BMW looked fun!

In reality you only NEED the camshafts to be free as the belt tension will still equalise with the crank sprocket seized so don't panic if you cannot free it off. Hitting it will damage it and that would be a massive ballbag. The later F4R's found in the Megane II/III RS and Clio III RS all have...

It's not what the results should be but the effect the wet test has on the dry test values. I suspect a head gasket issue

Assuming that's a dry test, did you follow up with a wet test?

Pop in to my place and we'll regas it for a lot less than £50

Is have to go with both 8 and 12 as I genuinely cannot decide between the two. The depth and tones in both are just beautiful

It's either dropping it or burning it as above. The question is how fast and is it acceptable "use"