New engine running...however odd noise

[mark123]

When I did my sump first time the gearbox was still on the engine.

So I got all the sump bolts finger tight and then tightened it snug to the gearbox, then torqued up the sump bolts I think.

Last time I did it I had the box off as well and don't remember even thinking about it lol!
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[sonny172cup]

OK, well I only noticed it as i was under the car doing the bolts up and seeing a large gap, and the gap had not mated up fully, I should have pushed the sump fully against the gear box, but using the straight edge when attaching the sump when engine is out should have solved this problem, any of the traders shed some light, you guys must do this on a weekly basis at least.

 

[MG cup]

For the wishbone support brackets, I had the same problem with my 52 plate Cup, nothing had been apart in years and if it had there was no copper grease used.

Get down to B&Q and get a plumbers blue soldering torch, (good ones) heat the broken bolts (takes a while but if you don't have access to oxy accetelane it's ideal) and soak in WD40 when warm (repeat process several times) then get some good vice grips on the back side where the bolt stub is poking through and gently work them free by working back and forth and loads of WD40.

For the subframe support triangle's I wouldn't be to worried about them as they are to do with crash protection and are not essential, as said though its going to be a case of drilling a hole in them and using an easy out with loads of heat and the above WD40 process or totally drilling them out and retapping the threads.

re replacing sump, its simply a case of removing it with gearbox in or out it doesnt really matter how its done, dont use the lower bolts (on the sump) to pull the box in tight to the engine, use the studs ideally or the longer bellhousing bolts. Also have you checked that the new engine doesnt have the little collars or dowels that locate the box to the engine on the bell housing studs. I had this problem, I had a collar on the engine and the box I swapped wit also had a collar stuck in it and wasn't allowing the box to be seated 100%, I would double check this as thinking about it that sounds like your problem. Its hard to explain this dowel/collar without a picture. Send me a pic of the bellhousing on a gearbox that is removed and I will circle it, this is what will be causing the starter to not fit properly and also what broke your sump.

spelling.

 

[mark123]

I have circled the bits Morgan means for you.

 

[sonny172cup]

Good advise Morgan, will try the bolt removal process.

I know what you mean about the dowls, Im 100% I checked this (remember seeing 2)when seating the box and engine together (on ground) So cant see it being that, however Im not ruling it out as I was rushing to get the engine back in. I will let you know if it was a dowel (and hang my head in shame).

 

[sonny172cup]

Thanks Mark, God I just want to nail this demon so I can move on to other parts of the car....

 

[MG cup]

Its an easy one to get caught out with tbh, luckily I noticed it before getting too far with the last one I done. FYI they can be pulled out with a set of vice grips. Having them dowels in the engine and gearbox would explain every problem you have listed, good luck

 

[sonny172cup]

Update, I manage to get the gearbox and engine split with the subframe dropped, what a b*****d of a job manage to shear 4 bolts including 1 front and one rear subframe bolts....

So, I found out what the problem was...I think this is prob one of my biggest mechanical **** ups, I found a washer one the captive bolt on the gearbox, there was no dowel, but the washer was throwing the friction plate out, I replaced the clutch and all is fine...what a drama.

I put all the bolts on the box in the first place from the donor box so I knew where the bolts would go, the washer must have been left behind on removal.

Gutted..

On the bright side it made me do a few other jobs, such as front bush, wishbone, TRE replacement.