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Really, just he mentions its only 180hp in the vid.

Seem to be going well on a leggy standard 182 cup here. 1:28 laps at Donington. The PH review thread that made my mind up for me. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=1858099&d=0#seperator

In typical CS fashion, I've asked advise about one thing and bought something totally different :D Just purchased a new set of MRF ZTR semi-slicks, 195/50/15 front - 225/45/15 rear for £486 delivered! Cant find any official reviews about them but they are the control tyre of the Civic cup...

1.6 THP ticking time bomb engine?

Sticking with the AR1's! Checked my fronts tread depth and they still have legal thread on them around 2-3mm, so just gonna purchase a pair of 225/45/15 rears at £280. Done a lot of research on the A052 over the weekend and the consensus is they are a fantastic all-round tyre, but do go off...

Anyone used this company for tyres? https://www.tracktyre.co.uk/product-category/road-tyres/yokohama-tyres/15-yokohama-yokohama-tyres/ £580 for the 52's in staggered sizes. Just emailed and they expect new stock next week.

ZZR's are mega, not great in the wet though, ZZS however are brilliant in the wet but are to soft for a dry track.

Slicks would go in, but not sure its the safest option 😬

Think I'd keep the slicks as they're worth peanuts. I can always drag the missus to the local tracks or lob them in one of my mates stripped hatches if they're in attendance, plus it'll reduce wear on the road/track set for dry days. Need a little trailer for the MR2 ideally 😅

Ar1 better in the dry, r888r better in the wet.

Not sure why they state they are not E marked as the 52's are defo E marked.

I'd need a 5th wheel and tyre too. f**k getting stranded over a blown tyre.

Maybe more negative camber needed? Looks like its leaning at lot on the outside shoulder.

With one of those ebay 20% off deals that come up, total cost wouldn't be to bad. Say £535 with the offer.

So whats that in laps. Say 20 laps for 2 practice sessions, 6 laps for 2 qualifying sessions and 2 x 12 lap races, so around 40 laps a race weekend. Rears would last around 4-5 track days, fronts around 6-7 days on mine.

Ask him what wear he gets out of them mate? As the fizzer will be a similar weight to mine.

There's always a draw back, but they sound ideal. AR1's have lasted 2 years with 10 track days and around 3k road miles, the draw back is they're shite in cold/wet conditions.

Haha, TBH honest mate on a more road oriented car I think they would be fine as they grip really well in all condition. Its just on my super stiff track car they are the only thing to flex when road driving, therefore they feel very spongy and lack real feed back.

With my AR1's now shot, i'm in need of some more semi-slicks. I currently have the overkill of 3 sets of wheels and have to rely on others to carry an extra set to track. One set for wets and road with Rainsport 5's, which are only good for very wet conditions, for road they really lack and...

MTEC C-hook discs are decent. I've also used MTEC grooved/dotted with no issues. Stay away from drilled. I've had mixed experiences with Brembo HC so I stay away from them now. However Pagid OE are very good.

At the rear of the car you can use the rear beam. You can also use the chassis rails front and rear, just use a pad or cardboard so you dont scratch away the rubber coating.

Check both front shocks for rebound speed and stiffness.

SC all day, TC track cars are boooooring!

YOLO! R8 all day, it will be infinitely more fun than a RS6 and worth the monthly payments.

I just arrange the freight myself and ask them to pack as above, if they wont then they get told to do one.

Just get 2 square bits of cardboard for each face of the wheel, bin bag over and tape the s**t out of it. Sent lots through Paisley freight this way.

Used slicks can be a lottery. Some maybe relatively new with decent tread but heat cycled out. If heat cycled out they tend to be like plastic and feel rock hard. I always ask the sellers what car and race series they came from and if they still feel tacky and soft enough you can dig a finger...

You can use wheel and tyre sizes to slightly adjust final drive too. If I use 16s with a 45 sidewall at Oulton it means I can stay in 4th down island straight before hitting the limiter at 107mph. With 15s and a 45 sidewall I'm having to shift into 5th at 103mph just before braking. Its...

7J

Go with 15s, there's zero gains running 17s. Plenty of slick tyre choice too. Dunlop, Michelin, MRF, Hankook etc. I run Hankook ventus F200 on my MR2 in 15s and they are fantastic. 200/580/15 but the actual contact patch are nearly as wide as my 225 45 15 AR1's.