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Thanks, had already searched but couldn't find my answer. I know the Cup has a different set up because aftermarket suspension fits the PH1 and PH2 172 and then the 182, but not the Cup. I am asking if there was any suspension/track width differences between the PH1 and PH2 172 because as...

Is any one apart from Fred actually reading my post?? – I’m referring to the differences in track width, not whether the engine is different or whether the Cup is the top of the range?! Thanks anyway though.

Thanks, so it is just the rear track width that should be different?. Conversely, my rear wheels look to be the same overal width as the PH2 172 I mentioned, but it’s my fronts that look to be narrower??

Thanks Fred, do you happen to know how much by, and which parts are different? I’m not referring to the different track width created by the different offset in wheels, but the actual mechanicals themselves.

Thanks but I’m not referring to engine differences, am asking about track differences.

Re: Differences between 172, 172 cup and 18 Does anyone know if the track width altered at all over the life of the 172, or from the 172 to the 182? At the moment my 2000 PH1 172 has the OEM OZ's on with their ET43 offset, James at JMS' PH2 172 has Speedline 2118's on with an identical ET43...

I realised that, I was pointing out that the T1Rs are primarily wet tyres, but for the track R1-R's would be better. And also that they wont wear out THAT quickly as my 888's are still holding up ok after 1,000 miles with track use.

I’ve been running 888’s on my 200 for 1,000 miles now, including two hard track-days at Brands, I would say they’re approx. half-worn. A friend had an R26R with the 888’s as standard; he didn’t do any track-days on them and sold the car with 4,500 miles on the clock and tread left on the...

I removed said pipe & box at the weekend and the box actually says "Resonator" on it, so at least we now know what it is!! I can’t see that the box actually does a lot as the mouth of the pipe running from the main CAF to the resonator box is only say 1" wide. But theoretically as I have...

The plastic CAF on my 200 runs from the back of the grill, it connects to a rubber hose about 12" long (see picture attached) running along the right-hand side of the engine which then connects to the air-box. The rubber hose has a spout on it facing down, to which is connected another thinner...

Yozzasport/Readyforthetrack and now K-Tec are selling big disc (330m) upgrades for the 197/200/Megane (all use the same 312m disc and Brembo calliper). They both do standard (312m) sized separate bell/rotor set-ups, but they also do the kit with larger 330m rotors to fit on the bell and...

....its just fun tinkering with them is’nt it. I’ll take a look at the weekend and report back.

I didn't think to turn the ESP off, but will try it with and then without next time. It is not possible to turn the ABS off - not that you would really want to!! (Noted re pad back padding - thanks)

I don’t believe one minute I’ll make a gain, that’s not my aim - but want to minimise the amount of hot air the valve is sucking up.

Noted and agreed. I’ve always advised others not to fit Induction-kits, but to keep the standard air-box and just replace the filter. Which I’ve done with the 200, its just that the acoustic valve is in such an illogical place and almost seems backwards in its operation, in that it closes...

Thanks, but 5 word-answers not that useful. Why wouldn’t it?

The valve closes once a vacuum is made in the inlet manifold when the engine is under load so as to quieten the induction nose for some silly Euro regulation. By disconnecting and blocking the vacuum pipe the valve remains permanently open. Side effect is a little more induction noise under...

Thanks, noted. I’ve just spoken with a mechanic at Ktec who advised to upgrade the rear pads when doing the front so as to keep the same pad material and heat range front and rear. So I’ve ordered a set of RC5+’s for the rear as well. Will be able to fit them all and test at the weekend...

Thanks. I have been advised by a couple of garages to leave the rear brakes alone (other than hoses) as it can upset the rear too much under hard braking.

Has any with a 197 or 200 run a CAF from the passenger side fog-lamp to the acoustic valve? I’ve disconnected and plugged the vacuum hose to the valve actuator so it is permanently open. It just seems a strange location for the valve as it must just suck up hot-air. Was thinking about...

I’ve got a set of 2500’s in my 200 at the moment (along with Brembo HC discs and Goodridge hoses) and took them on the track last Thursday. To be truthful they are a great pad and offered loads of fade resistant stopping power on the track and feel OEM on the road. But I would like some MORE...

Yes it was a novice day, I has a couple of instructor sessions in the morning, but the 997 GT3 driver apparently was a regular to the track in bike form and the 996 GT3 RS driver had a Le-mans race-driver ‘friend’ as an instructor. I’m not going to make out I’m a fantastic driver as I couldn’t...

I took my 200 to the MSV Brands Hatch track-day last Thursday and was lapping M3’s Elise’s and Caterhams and….. a 997 GT3!!, the only car I couldn’t catch up with was a 996 GT3 RS but that only gained ½ a lap on me after a 20 minute session. Now admittedly it was the shorter Indy circuit and I...

I’ve fitted OEM sized (215/45/17) 888’s to my 200, you have to go onto the Toyo site to find approved motorsport dealers that stock the 888’s. So it can be done. They are amazing on track!!!, admittedly not cheap and with track use will wear down quickly, I’d say in 600 miles including one...

As above. Find a quiet straight road and do 4 or 5 repeated heavy breaking stops from 70mph (more if you can) down to 20mph and then accelerate and repeat straight away. Don’t lock-up or stop in between and then drive say 5 miles with no or just very light braking afterwards to let them cool...

My wife used to have an ‘old’ Supercharged JCW and it was a great little car, quick, loads of grip (had the LSD), looked good etc etc. It had to go back to the garage for a week once and on loan we had the new Turbo JCW – they were like chalk and cheese!! – The new turbocharged version...

Am going to get a 2nd set of wheels and therefore need to know the correct offset, does anyone please know? (I don’t yet have my 200 so cant look on the OEM wheels.)

Did this ever get resolved? - as I too need to know the offset.

Not on a 'heavy' Clio, but on a race-bike then it all adds up.

Can’t say for certain whether they’ll do them, but speak to Pro-Bolt and let them know the torque you need to tighten them to. Alloy is relatively soft so probably wouldn’t cope, I ended up having anodised titanium nuts and bolts on my motorbike - costs an arm and a leg - but very light.