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3M comes in 122cm wide rolls, from memory I needed about 165cm to do the roof and have enough spare to hold onto you need a few cm’s spare to fold/wrap around all the edges.

2.3 rear, 2.5 front, on 888's. Tried over 3 (3.5 i think it was) on the front but it understeared too much, its pretty perefct for me now.

As Fred said, try Track-Group, that's where I’ve had all my engine work done, they're the best in the business.

My 172 is running 202bhp and 175ftlb, but that’s after spending quite a few quid on ITB's and other bits and thanks to Mr Faulks. I believe 220bhp is possible, but with cams, larger injectors and some head work on top of this.

The 3m stuff can take quite a bit of heat, so if you have a heat-gun use it. Start off on say 1/3rd power and see if that's enough. Don’t hold the gun too near the wrap, start off from say 8 inches and then either move the gun nearer or turn the heat up as you get used to working the wrap...

Wickid man.

Thanks. I didn’t say I was going to, was only asking if it’s safe to do so. I could've sworn there was a light, or alarm sensor or something there before I removed everything, therefore wondered if it was purely there just to hold the light, or whatever it was.

Great thread by the way. Sorry to highjack the thread a bit it, but does anyone know if it’s safe to remove the bar across the inside of the roof left once having removed the lining. I’m not sure if it’s structural or just there to hold the interior light etc.

If anything, I would imagine removing the lamps and cutting the ducts would add drag rather than creating lift therefore should theoretically add down force. This is all immaterial on a ‘heavy’ Clio surely!?

I assume you’re talking about when on track, otherwise if you are creating that much heat on the road something is definitely faulty/broken. I’m running Willwood 4-pots with 1166 pads, plus also 888’s on Speedline 2118’s and have no problem with excessive heat. I’ve removed the fog-lights and...

Mr Faulks remapped my 200 when I had it, was 190bhp before and then depending on which map we went for, increased to just below 200. These were bang on the numbers for all the 200’s he’d seen. Can’t say I noticed any difference, it was just a bit of fun but probably could’ve done something...

Wocka, I have an as-new (professionally reconditioned) set of 15” OZ F1’s with as-new (500 miles) Yokohama Parada Spec 2 tyres if you’re interested. See my for sale post, they all do literally look like new; let me know if you’re interested.

Thanks guys, much appreciated!!

That's a big decision, I’ve used them twice now and apart from the higher wear rate have been happy as Larry, they really are that good!! But if you are doing high miles then would stick with the T1R's as a happy medium - but wouldn’t be as good on track...... Then you aren’t pushing hard...

Thanks, any idea if this is the same for the rear?

Does anyone please know the correct torque needed for the single large nut that holds the hub on? I just want to take the nut off and clean it up along with the inside of the ‘cup’ around the nut as my 2118’s don’t have centre caps. It’s for a 2000 172, thanks.

Not wanting to sound argumentative but I gave mine the full beans around Brands in biblical rain and they were great, I was lapping R8’s and Exiges etc, probably more to do with the confidence they gave me than anything. The common thread here is don’t drive like a wally with them on in the...

Just to put my 2p in, I ran 888’s on my 200 on the road and track and in all weather and they were great, lets not forget they came as standard on the R26R. As previously mentioned they’re not great in standing water but just slow down and don’t brake suddenly. I’ve been running 888’s on my...

Re: Ollie's Silver Cup - JMS RS2/428s/Wilwood/2118 Ollie, the car looks great, have been following the thread. I’m going to spray mine using the Wrinkle Plus paint too (red though), did you need to use a primer first?

See my ‘for sale’ post. They have a set of almost new Parada Spec 2’s on them and all wheels and tyres are immaculate therefore am looking to get a good price. I’m advertising them at £500 and am not in a rush to sell.

Thanks guys, I’m sure I wouldn’t bend them, but just my luck...... Am going to keep the 2118's and have just posted the F1's for sale.

I’ve read a few other posts on here and apparently the F1’s are not that much lighter than the 2118’s but the 2118s are much stronger, so it’s six of one, half a dozen… I think the 2118’s look a bit more ‘race-car’y and it will be a lot easier just to stick them on with the 888’s already...

To be truthful I’m not too bothered which looks better, if I kept them I’d probably have the F1’s done in dark grey or black with the 888’s on. The F1’s are definitely easier to clean after a day on track!!

At present I have a set of immaculate (refurbished) F1’s on my track 172 and a set of 2118’s for the track. The F1’s have Yokohama Parada Spec 2’s on them and the original plan was to use these on the road and to get to the track and also for the track it was wet. The 2118’S have 888’s on...

Curtis supplies so many bespoke kits that there is’nt a set spring weight, each kit is specific and mine originally was what Tom at JMS ordered. Regardless of whether the measurements are in NM, or lbft etc my original post to Oggers was to check the spring weights before ordering, he might...

TDF advised the front springs were too hard and when we checked noticed that the fronts were actually harder than the rears, they recommended I went for 60NM front and kept the rears at 80NM. TDF set up race cars so when they advised to soften the fronts I went with what they suggested and now...

Check your spring rates before you order, I recently bought the Sportline 2 kit for my stripped-out track-day Clio 172 (still road registered so not full-on race-car) and it was supplied with 80NM rears and 90NM fronts??!! The front was understearing everywhere. We’ve since swapped the...

It is'nt a big job, therefore if you can have it done while the geo is being done then go for it. As Tony says it will be out again if you have a passenger with you on track, but if you don’t it will be out with only you on track anyway.

I’ve since spoken with Mintex who confirmed that the 1144's are for circa 500kg cars such as Caterhams, the 1155's would be a good fast-road/track pad but the 1166's are track/race specific and are what I’m after. And they do them for the Willwoods.

Thanks guys, not sure what to do then. If I stick with Mintex because they definitely fit the callipers it’s either the 1144, 55, 66 or 77. It seems then as mentioned the 44's are more road focused, therefore I need to go for something more track focused, but if the 66' wear down so quickly what...