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Along with a few other bits I’m upgrading the standard 172 callipers to some Willwood 4-pots. The car is a 90% track-car so I don’t mind the poor cold performance or the squealing etc. Its currently got Brembo HC’s and Carbon Lorraine RC6 pads in (along with hoses and uprated fluid etc)...

You could do, I just think it would be easier and tidier to do behind the dash and you wouldn’t have to splice into any of the wires in the loom. Either way would work though.

The rear light circuit board inside the lamp units with the fixings for the individual light bulbs are identical on both sides, as are the two looms that run down either side of the car to the plugs that then connect into the circuit boards on the back of the light unit. If you look for a guide...

Its ok, they're meant to be like that. Too much hassle to make it work.

Did it all last night, only took approx. 5 minutes each side. Fantastic guide as I thought I would have to chop and splice the individual wires in the loom. The PH2 lights look so much better than the PH1 and really suit the silver colour of my car.

I bought a set the other week from Demon Tweeks, cant remember the price exactly, but £115 per wheel sounds about right. The 15” Anthracite is only available in the ET43 offset (as well as silver); if you want ET38 then you can only have them in white.

Thanks, had already found the guide, looks fairly easy to swap the wires over.

If there the ones I’m thinking of you will need a big Torx-head socket bit. Pick yourself up a set from Halfords – useful to have in the tool box.

A fuse I could understand if it happened to the whole unit, but it only happens to the bulb that switches on when the front headlights are turned on. It doesn’t happen to the stop light or indicator bulbs. I’ve bought the bullet and purchased a new set of the later model light units, will...

You don’t get rear HID lights – you would blind the people behind. HID’s, with ballast-packs are for the front, as per the thread title we are referring to the rear lights.

I have turned my PH1 172 into a track car and removed the headlight height adjuster switch in the dashboard as I knew I would never need it again and also needed the space for something else. I am replacing the headlight units themselves with identical OEM units as the old ones are a bit...

Coincidentally I have the exact same problem. Its not that the bulb has gone because the bulb works perfectly if swapped over to the driver’s side unit. Plus if I plug the driver’s side unit into the passenger side loom everything works perfectly. I think it must be a problem with the actual...

I'm no expert, but you can get high temperature Loctite, that's why I recommended it.

I’m not sure how anyone would actually measure it, because the most the difference will ever be is circa 10mm in total, which is nothing really. And camber etc would throw the measurement out. I’ve fitted 5mm spacers all round and am think of replacing the fronts with hub centric spacers...

Sorry, I should have stated that PH1 172’s are definitely ET43, I’m not sure about PH2’s. I’ve a feeling that the PH2 172 might have had a wider mechanical track (if that makes sense, i.e. the hubs or suspension etc is actually wider before you even put the wheels on) but then a higher wheel...

Why not put some Loctite on the thread and nuts, it’s kind of like superglue and will stop them coming loose. You cat get it at Halfords etc.

The 172 OZ's are definitely ET43, so if you put them on would give you a little extra track of 3mm per side. Nothing to write home about but also nothing to worry about with regards rubbing. I think the 172’s had a narrower mechanical track without the wheels but then the lower offset wheels...

Thanks, Ok, nothing to worry about then. Blimey -3 on the rear, I was thinking that -2 on the rear and -3 on the front was hardcore! For the time being the car is still road registered and will have to travel the odd 100 miles to the track so want to still be drivable on the road.

Ah I see. Although as part of the track preparation it has new Renault OEM discs (and pads) on the rear which included NEW bearings, so theoretically the bearings should be perfect.

??

The 200 was only ever a 2nd car and only ever got used once a month or when I took it on track. So I thought I would have some fun and ‘build’ a track specific car, save a few pennies and ultimately hopefully have a better car for the track. So I sold the 200 and bought a 20,000 mile PH1 172...

The rear looks fine with the 5mm spacers, perhaps ill look into some 15mm or 20mm hub centric spacers for the front. I’ll be able to increase the camber on the front as well if I do. Now this thread has definitely gone off topic!!

Thanks, I understand about different ET’s, but as mentioned above I’m suggesting that the PH1 must somehow mechanically have a narrower track without the wheels.

With standard wheels I can understand that, but as we both now have the same wheels and with the same spacers and the same suspension & settings the only thing that could be giving the PH2 an increased overall track width must somehow be mechanically through different suspension or hub parts etc??

While we’re off topic - I’ve since fitted my 2118’s with their ET 43 offset, and as thought the standard OZ’s must definitely also be 43’s. As per the other thread I’m now certain I must have a narrower front track than a PH2 172, but from the other post you were saying that it’s just the rear...

I bought the wheels & tyres from the motorsport section at Demon Tweaks as they actually did the best deal and already had the tyres in stock. They mentioned that the tyres would be filled with nitrogen I and don’t know for certain that they didn’t vacuum out the air before hand. To be truthful...

Thanks Fred I’m already familiar with pressure rises on track tyres filled with normal air so will obviously keep an eye on them. If the Nitrogen helps then it helps, if it doesn’t it doesn’t.

Thanks guys – much appreciated, so I’ll aim for 30 both front and rear when hot then. (The wheels and tyres were brand new and were inflated with nitrogen free of charge, wouldn’t have gone for it normally but for the time being hopefully they’ll have a little less cold-hot difference than...

I’m quite capable of using the search function and also the internet, but couldn’t find my answer – hence posting my question. Thanks for your constructive help.

I've searched through all the past threads and truthfully there is so much conflicting advice and the Toyo guide itself is a bit vague - I know it lists a range of pressures per weight of car, but is this for front or rears, or both??? I've a set of new 888's 195/50/15's on my stripped out PH1...