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You need someone to help ideally easy then. Dont be too rough with the hub assembly dont want to loosen the driveshaft and spill the oil out your box

missfire on cyl4 then, probably overfuelling by your description, did you check the resistance of the injectors as advised, particularly 4 i had also a sooty plug on 4, needed new injector.

Thats really weird! Id expect to see a missfire Cyl x for example. the only code there which is management related is the rear o2 which shouldnt matter. again shouldnt matter but did you read DTCs while the EML was flashing/on?

I used 800 grit wet and then machine polished with menzerna power finish. Shant bother using higher grades unless you want to spend all day on it (or dont have a machine)

You should definitely get a code with the RSTuner if the EML light is on. I found with my cheapy special I had to check for codes without turning the engine off as the light would extinguish then wouldnt detect. but the RST should be more advanced i would think.

Update for anyone else who may come across. Changed the Lambda anyway last night. cant tell any difference driving but on idle the fluctuations are stronger and more frequent. Also with the old probe it would sometimes flatline for periods of time. Hardest part about the job was the f*cking...

the injectors look ok on that video, i would still check the resistance on them though. set your multimeter to 20 ohms. They should be about 14ish.

funny cos i took mine out my old 182 and had no problem with the light coming on.

Thought it smelt to be running a bit rich when idling, no diag codes to suggest a fault but seems a little slow when switching. Anyone who has experience with the o2 data quick feedback would be ace :) I do have a spare bosch but cba to crawl under the car unless its actually necessary...

The oil will always smell a little "petrolly" particularly if you do a lot of short journeys. But as dan said if its bad a leakdowns a good place to start.

Well done. Still would have just left it if it were me :p

Still got an immobiliser no pikey will be able to deactivate that. You need to remove the scuttle/wipers they are a cunit to remove with out a tool. Then remove wiper mech. The siren is under there. The wiring goes through to the dashboard which youd have to remove also. Bit of a ballache if...

Sorry a pretty unhelpful answer but why are you bothered about a broken alarm they are a pain in the ass. Took the siren out of mine when i did the ac delete usually went off when I jacked it up without unlocking it but I guess I live in a low risk area so wont get broken into ot very unlikely

i know the one he means by the front gearbox mount. just connect a jump lead and see if it solves it, if nothing changes then its not that. If it does happy days and look at a more permanent solution. £200 to diagnose and replace an earth isnt too bad may have taken a few hours.

if its an earth just try putting a jump lead across to the hoist hook and see if that solves it.

pop the plugs off the camshafts and see if they line up visually, to be 100% sure you need a horseshoe though.

mine was spinning like a mofo with a breaker bar, some c**t had already destroyed the hex head so got the trusty 230v clarke on it. didnt take long and she was free.

66 quid for a bit of pipe with a flared end lol. some local exhaust place could probably knock one up for less.

Leave a pipe open or youll get pressure build up.

about 40 amps :) Its a different shape too id assume it has different fixing points.

You don't think i tried that already lol. It certainly would have required more than a "tap" to get it out i was worried about bending the arm since its only ally.

yeah thats right, did mine last weekend, worst bit was burning out the old ones. and the gay ring on the big side. washers were a pain too didnt bother slacking the arm off just hit the washers with a hammer seemed to work :)

Cheers Freddy, part number for anyone searching in future is 7700434126

I though NFP was older and NFJ superseded it. As someone who has used a multitude of oils in the JC5 box (ATF, 75-90 castrol epx 75/80, gl80 way to thick) in various cars i would just stick the NFJ or NFP it works the best, 3 litres is enough.

Putting cup dampers on a trophy I have heard the sachs have a bigger shaft (lol) and the dust boot doesnt fit properly. I wrongly assumed the shock absorbers would come with new boots but apperently not! Any idea where I can purchase two from? Thanks

Just use the tranself stuff. It says on the bottle specifically for use with renault jc units...

Feed it red bull, 250ml per full tank of V-power. Job done.

Its quite a s**t job back of engine by exhaust manifold. 2 hours I would guess at

Yeah thats right sits above the power steering pump.

it doesn't look too old to me but only an educated guess.. which is all anyone can do lol.