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The solution... https://www.fensport.co.uk/parts/toyota/celica/t-sport-190bhp-vvtli-zzt231/wheels/long-comp-wheel-stud-65mm-toyota-m12x1-5/

Yep press in studs mate. Yeah longer wheel studs seems the best solution. You've just got to remove the stupid hardbrake shoes and backing plates on the rear, and I've read the spline sizes are different front to rear on Celica's. Nothing is simple.

Not sure how I'll convert to a stud and nut kit when my hubs aren't threaded? Looks like longer hub bolts maybe the cheapest option.

Wheel holes and nuts in question...

Had an issue were my wheel nuts were coming loose on track after only 10 minutes, they were literally hand tight which is not good. The issue is the alloys are very wide at 8j so the bolts aren't protruding enough so i can only get 7 turns on the bolt. So do i use something like this to drill...

Could be your technique were you're not being progressive enough coming off the brake, or I've had similar when a front ABS rings was slightly cracked therefore slipping, causing and inefficiency in the front braking leading to the rear trying to overtake me. Check free stuff first like tyre...

Good progress, love to see something a bit different than the norm at track days. All you see these days is Clio's, Meg's & Type R's.

Easy 10hp gain £30 collected for my 182 mani ?

Remember grooved/drilled discs make a warring sound under braking which would annoy the s**t out of me for the road. Brembo HC discs and Mintex M1144/1155 is a good budget road/track option IME.

Well my review of the ebay one has changed dramatically. The fuckin thing struggles to even undo 108nm tight wheel nuts. Bought it to tackle the rusted Celica I'd purchased but its just not up to the job. Maybe its a duff one as others have had better results.

Shite for the road as you're constantly correcting the wheel but comes into its own on track as you know it wont s**t itself like hpas can, even though the feedback is poor in comparison. Would i do it again...nope!

See one if these at Oulton. In fact its the same one, lol!

Standard delamination of a road tyre on track due to overheating. Bet they were screeching like mad? They'll be fine as road/wets.

Worked in the power coating place mentioned above and the process wont weaken alloys of good condition. From what i remember the process consists of shot/sand blasting, acid dipped (if required) degreasing, powder coat and bake. May have changed a bit over the years but thats how it used to be...

Sand them down yourself or take them to be shot blasted. Hitec coatings in Rainford will do it cheap. Saying that if you've paid for shot blasting and they're ok then you might as well get them powder coated.

Strip them back and look for cracks and if OK plasti dip them as its a piece of piss to do and it comes off really easy if you want to do them again or change colour.

It will be the shoulder straps that will be the issue as they will be way to high.

Always knew you were a crossdresser.

Decent all rounder @Danith. Need a bit of heat on the road but no real issues, grip of a decent midrange tyre cold and really are good with heat on the road. My real suprise was how good they where in the damp/light rain on track, no drama whatsoever. For me they lacked on a dry track where they...

I've just bought the ebay £70 one recently and used it on the Scenic to change a wheel hub. Spun the hub nut off no problem and everything bar the damn lower hub/wishbone pinch bolt which it just rounded. Seems a decent buy so far.

If its bumper to bumper motorway traffic for 40 miles then i really don't see the point in keeping the Clio. If its a mixed drive with not much crawling traffic thats a total different story. Try it and see first. I've been using my new toy for work and I'm loving it, but i know it will become...

Sounds like the lambda yeah or coolant/thermo sensor maybe. Mine did it, didn't bother me as once warm it was fine. Try swapping the lambda's around and see if it stops.

Mate, just get a used box out of a breaker. I sold mine for £150, just get a local indy to fit for £150-200 max. Sod paying £800 for someone else to enjoy a nicely rebuilt box and new clutch for you not to make a penny in profit from all the hassle.

Totally agree mate, rubbish commute car. I'd just sell as is and not mention the gearbox issue...oh wait, lol.

Could you not keep as a weekend toy on a limited mileage insurance policy and just buy a cheap derv for the daily commute?

Had the same issue with the horrible standard seats and stupid angled steering wheel. Changed to a Corbeau Clubsport seat and OMP WRC (mid dished) wheel and it was 10x better.

Brilliant!

I had this on my 182 after having the belts and 197 cams fitted, never got to the bottom of it. It showed itself more when left to idle for prolonged periods where like yours it would just start to rev really high then drop to 3-4k rpm and more worryingly going around very tight right hand bends...

Maybe not for you, but drive hard on a brake heavy track and OE pads will fade sooner rather than later no matter how much you bed them in, they're just not designed to withstand the heat that prolonged heavy braking generates. If they were then there would be no need for track/race pad compounds.

SGS v Draper 2tonne jack stands, Draper wins! I've just replaced these with Silverline 3tonne jobbies at £17 a pair. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000WTHL42/?tag=cliospnet01-21