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Decent lap, its class when its quiet as can get loads of hot laps in. One of my mates was there and said there was hardly anybody booked on, i was going to come over but fully booked at work.

I turned the trajectory control off on my old Kangoo and got rid of the multiplex issues with clip. Does the asr still kick in as its only disabling the light on the clocks from memory. Mine was cup setup no abs so did not have any issues in that respect.

Mine was the same with a longlife silencer, headache on a motorway run:ROFLMAO:

90deg spacer works for most of the time. Worth getting it mapped though. Ill warn you in advance that the drone is ridiculous with one silencer though :LOL:

Something like this will get you away, Worked ok on my old 172 Kangoo, only seen the eml come on every few thousand miles...

Mpg seems to be awesome on the blue dci @Mazz it does do a fair bit of dual carriageway driving though. The orange one does around 62mpg with a mixture of street and short dual carriageway runs, so yours sounds about right. Id leave cat off and egr blanked. The blue one is smoking bad from cold...

Chuck a 90deg fitting on the downstream lambda and fit it in the decat, will keep the eml off most of the time.

1380kg with 20kg tolerance on the weighbridge. Heavier than you would think, similar weight to mk2 meg. On the plus side as its got plenty of power its alright😆

Had the Compact on the weigh bridge earlier. Guess the weight😁

Looks awful

Post cat lambda fault due to decat usually puts the eml on solid. A 90deg spacer stops it from flagging up all the time however will come on occasionally. Id be checking the live data on upstream lambda and check the connections for corrosion. You could swap downstream lambda to upstream to...

As above you need can clip hooking up and see what codes are stored, generic obd readers often read a load of shite on the renaults. Have the basics been checked, fuel pump priming? Spark? Might be as simple as knocked a relay in the fusebox.

Updates Replaced upstream lambda sensor and its not had a hissy fit since, runs great again no more rough cold starts. In other news ive been chasing what i thought was a boost leak for the last few weeks. Just before Trax i noted that it did not feel as lively as just after mapping, it still...

I can imagine that being a right cnut of a job to do, did you have to drop the subframe?

Bov not needed, turbo will last fine without. Ive ran loads of turbo cars without any recirc no issues, no downsides.

Hook something up to the obd, torque or whatever and see what charge temps are like when its had a good long pull on boost. If its not much good, could go for a cheapo toyosports bar and plate intercooler like mine. Charge temps are always around ambient.

Well worth doing the ign parts cost nowt from autodoc. What intercooler is on the Laguna? Might be worth upgrading if its the same as stock rs250, as it was terrible at stock power levels. Charge temps of 60degrees on a hot day on stock map.

Updates. Been chasing an occasional rough start on the Kangoo. Maybe 2x in 20 cold starts it fires up then idles rough and sorts itself out when hot. Typically when its happened i have not had access to diagnostics to log the data and no codes stored. Fired it up from cold with clip on to log...

Indeed. Run the blue clio until it falls to pieces then move onto the next banger that will do silly mpg.

Orange one used to be my daily driver a couple of years ago before i got my current job. The mrs then used it to commute for ages but has been working from home since covid kicked off, so its not getting used no where near as much as it was. Did consider selling it at one point but its worth...

141'000 on the blue one and 155'000 on the orange clio. Orange one is sweet as too, prob run forever with regular servicing. Average mpg of 72.8 on the blue one, its amazing. Thats motorway and urban normal driving too, it runs on fresh air.

Warm up is pretty essential to keep them right. My Kangoo engine has an old set of cosworth pistons in that are slappy from cold and needs a good 15 mins warmup on the drive, and it uses a bit of oil due to larger piston to wall clearance when cold. Ive reckoned up that its done 25-30k and has...

Id avoid a forged engine for a daily especially if using it for short journeys. Will be knackered in no time.

16s would kill the power or be expensive for low profile tyres :LOL: If it starts drinking it i might bosh a thicker oil in. Egr failed today. Was stuck when checked when i had turbo off recently, it seemed to free off ok so refitted. Started sticking again resulting in rolling coal last week...

Updates Removed turbo on blue dci and it checked out as good, no oil on exhaust turbine so the blue smoke from cold must be from worn or gummed up rings, valve stem oil seals or dribbly injector (starts too good for that i reckon). Assuming its rings at the moment. Monitoring oil consumption...

Took it to Trax @ Silverstone a couple of weeks ago. Almost did not make it as had a pencil coil fail 2 miles away from the house at 6am. Limped it back to the house sounding like a subaru (bet the neighbours loved that) and quick scan/coil in and back on the road at 630am. Renaults eh cant win...

Updates Had a little bit of sediment in the cooling system from where the engine had been ran on water by previous owner. Done a mega flush with a hosepipe 20 mins or so each way until the water was perfectly clear. Front end off, ten mins work. Give everything a once over and no issues to...

Can clip or Ren0link will do it. Can clip clone is not too expensive to buy around £130. Ren0link is even cheaper but risky if you have no programming experience. StageX should be able to do it, Coventry based iirc.

The coolant will boil over without cap on as the system needs to be sealed. Is it mixing oil into the coolant? Coolant can go black if you mix the two different types together. Give it a thorough flush and refill if compression and header tank sniff tests are ok.

Will be related to fluid level/sensor or wiring to the sensor on the handbrake lever. It wont be handbrake cables as the lever needs to be pulled to activate the sensor. Cant see it being anything to do with abs as a fault in that system should trigger abs/serv lights.