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Avoid expensive aftermarket induction kits. Waste of money. Spend the money on better brakes, suspension upgrades and petrol. The engine is already as good as it's going to get without spending BIG money. If you have to get an induction kit, get either a Ph1 172 airbox of Espace V6 box.

PMSL. There should be a metal floor. On a 172 cup, it won't have a spare wheel well as i remember. Must be f**king loud when driving.

Nope seperate bolts. Give Fred a ring- he's local and i bet he's got a few spares kicking about.

He's had more than one go at it, you can see that much. Either way, it's awesome.

Tomorrow? 1. Mike 2. Hallam 3. Bigman possibly. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10

That's just right. Maybe even a touch too low at the front for me, but i'd always aim for go, not show.

It sounds ghetto, but get a small spirit level (even one on the iphone) on the face of the hub. That will give you a rough idea of the camber on the wheel. Either that, or bolt it on loosely, then place the wheel on and inspect.. Make sure both are the same, even if you are running serious negative.

Without camber bolts, you can't adjust, so it should give near on standard camber. Unless the dampers are slotted obviously- if so, just match up left and right as close as possible.As soon as you fit camber bolts it gives you the adjustment option.

I removed the box on this one, couldn't see anything untoward. If memory serves me, Kris fitted it back in himself...

Nope, front shocks aren't sided.

Rustbucket did me proud today! Some other cracking metal about too.

Vibration/knocking at high revs and when backing off was almost certainly the manifold on the subframe if it's been sorted by moving the engine forward. Crank sensor imo is black or white. It either works or it doesn't.

You can also loosen the 4x 13mm bolts that hold the upper gearbox mount to the body and adjust from there. They all have a certain amount of adjustment.

Nothing with a Blue oval on the front does anything for me, however this does look like a tidy example.

Either take the pump out and syphon from there, or remove the feed line from the fuel rail and turn the key to prime the pump and pressurise the system.

41 seconds i'll never get back. Thanks.

Various wires down there in that area. Lambda. Gearbox earth. Speedo sensor. Reverse sensor. Get a pic of the plug up and i'll tell you what it is. (I'm midway through a 'box change atm)

As said, tanks are made of plastic. You'd have to be incredibly unlucky to make it go bang by putting a hole in it. Find someone breaking a car- the tanks usually end up in the bin because they don't sell.

Two plugs/connections that always gets me raging is the starter motor spade connection and the gearbox reverse sensor plug. I've always got cold hands by this point- on several occasions i've talked about torching other people's cars over these two little f*****s.

My bet is engine mounts need changing/adjusting. Could well be the manifold hitting the subframe.

Ring James himself. I'm sure he'll be happy to help you out.

Re: let us see pictures off your old cars you owned I MUST own a CSL at some point.

Meh. Walk past three of these every day. (;

On a 182 it goes (from front to back of car) engine - manifold - cat/decat- centre section- backbox. The centre section and backbox might as well be one section though.

Yep, that car left work late last week.

I fed some ducks at a meet once after a day on the beer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvMGf1u2mOU

Search for Guppy's 182. Best one. RIP and soz.

Did you see what happened when he fitted rear brakes, FFS?

Put one on, count the number of rotations the bolt goes round before it's tight. I'd be happy with five full turns.

The joint between the wiper stalk and the linkage is a bit of a weakpoint, although it's odd for both to go at once. My bet is fuse, relay or linkage. I've got linkages kicking about if you need one cheap.