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How old is your aux belt? When on full lock the system pressure is at its highest and puts most load onto the pulley/belt, so it can slip if tension isnt high enough or the belt is worn and slick.

if your boosting upto 130bhp then you wont have to worry much about exhaust design. Sufficient bore size is 2.25". A quick calc for primary bore size is Area of Primary Pipe = RPM × Cylinder Size ÷ 88,200, where RPM is point of peak torque. Cylinder size has to be given in cubic inches and...

Though we were talking about a stock engine when i wrote the post. Whats the curve like sub 4000rpm?

Thats quite high considering that you'll ideally be using the tail side of peak power for at least 500-1000rpm. What point is peak torque?

depends how much time you spend up there, fatigue is the main point, but instant failure can be seen by high rpm such as 8000-8200rpm. If you spend alot of time at high rpm you need good oil, good oil supply and sufficient viscosity at the average working oil temp you'll be seeing. Apart from...

Rotrex indeed, its the most easily available charger. But it was at BenP's initial choice, i wanted to run another item, but we've stuck with it.

Mechanically the engine is able to withstand alot more than 200bhp. The majorty of issues occur with poor installation, excessive rpm and poor oil supply.

Not without redesigning the camshaft to be of a hollow oil pressure carrying design and installing a complex dual constant vvt management. Feasible, but highly pointless.

aircon is gone. Had to make a choice of junking it or increasing costs exponentially for the complexity of a remote drive system. A conversion will be expensive, but there is expensive, and there is so expensive that they will never sell.

Still here and too expensive for anyone, retail cost was above £2k. Nobody made any orders or put down any deposits, so didnt really owe it to anyone.

Its super tight, generating belt sufficient wrap and rigidity are all issues. Not really willing to give anything away, but mount kits will be available if people want to do the rest of the setup themselves.

charger setup is all done, still working on his engine though. Here's a nice blurry image for you, i wont be showing mounting or belt routing until its done. A bolt on kit for a stock engine is on its way.

an 8mm punch tool does the job. And i whizz off the crank bolt before i put anything on, then when i need to move it i've got a spacer to put on the bolt. To do the job well you'll need a crank locking tool, a cam locking tool and a cam pulley locking tool, also we made up a special tool...

The F4R engines do not use any locating keys. Take it apart and do it again properly, part of the tensioning procedure requires you to cycle the belt over without the engine turning over and you wont do that with a locating key on the crank pulley.

Your problem is unloading the inside wheel and an open diff. Your problem is worse than normal as slicks generate higher G loadings and affect weight shift more. You actually lighten the inside wheel more, and eventhough it is a slick you have less grip on that wheel and it spins up. LSD...

You wont have to reduce CR for a small size shot like that. Since a simple N20 setup is just a constant flow system, you can eliminate any damage by not firing the system before 3500rpm, this will minimise torque at lower rpm where damage can occur. If you have a progressive system then...

Its not expensive. To tension the belt properly you will need to undo both pulleys to rotate the cambelt whilst the engine is locked.

i got mine from ren, so i've not looked anywhere else.

If your certain that cyl is getting a spark, then check for fuel. Check the injector plug is getting 12v first (unplug all injectors to test), if it has check it is being triggered with an LED. If it is, check the injector.

There is no 'cooling' airflow in the engine bay considering that all the airflow first passes through the radiator. Basically your stuck with a hot thing in a hot place. Unless your plannig on a composite inlet manifold with an external air pickup, i wouldnt worry too much about...

I'm not stopping anyone, just remember that alluminium is an excellent heat conductor, which is why all aircooled engines and radiators are made from it. Just as easily as it sheds heat in cool airflow, it absorbs heat. I would argue that the contact points contribute but a small...

For all the good intention, does the fact that the manifold forms a giant blanket around the engine, and that the contact points make up about 5% of the total surface area, not raise a flag to anyone? The only time i have seen insulating gaskets work is when thier thickness is sunstantial and...

yes, pico is a style

Just post it, he enjoys the attention. Pico ARE OEM injectors on clios, so they will of course fit....i'm not sure of the question.

shhhhh

I highly doubt it. Maybe we can place me in a perspex cage with Ben's car and people can throw bananas at me and i can throw s**t back.

yes

All this paranoid delusion, are you all from hollyoaks or something? or is it just a trait of simple minded folk? This build isnt something i'm doing for CS or anybody's entertainment, this is something i'm doing for Ben and thats it. I dont have to answer to any of you, give reasons for...

pics.

Now your just an ass who can say whatever he wants....woo hoo! lol