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Whats the lens? No point in 2 out of 4 of those so buy one good one you know you need.

Not a problemo to edit the jpeg, unless you've changed the camera settings it'll intentionally shoot 'flat' images for editing after..

That's a great shot but please don't do it a disservice, spend 2 minutes adjusting the contrast and it really comes to life... :)

Extension tubes, there are three in my rig shot: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extension_tube Paid £65 for mine in 2006, flol at £150, not such a cheap alternative these days! http://www.jessops.com/online.store/categories/Accessories/Lens%20Accessories/Extension%20Tubes/Show.html

cheesy gorilla. double post.

I think you went wrong at AUTO ;) some examples might help, dodgy edges could be chromatic aberrations (CA), vignetting or blown highlights but don't know without seeing. Assume these are jpeg shots? You'll find the settings are probably set to neutral for in camera processing, your dads p&s...

A standard zoom can do the job but you don't get super closer, might be ok for one ring shot mind! Tubes are an option with a 50mm, the more you add the trickier it gets, heres a shot of an old set up... And some shots.. old ones infact, feck me 4 years ago... and the shallow DoF is a...

google says it does lol, infact this is what a google and yahoo questiosn threw upp...

Live View is brilliant, I'm lazy and can set up an exposure in seconds with it & can turn on a histogram for good measure.

I'm pretty sure one of your zoom lenses, fully extended, will have a much loser MFD than the 50mm.

I don't own a 5D but I'm pretty sure you'll get the lens cheaper as a bundle & outside of the two on offer, unless you like to shoot primes there isn't anything better. I'd love a 35L. As for 24-70 or 24-105 debate, its a never ending on POTN (http://photography-on-the.net), comes up like a...

Avoid, the IS kit lens is mountains better than the old Non-IS. Although I'm not sure if the IS version was ever the standard package with the 1000d. (?!) Edit: wtf, just been on camerapricebuster and there is now a 1100D! http://www.camerapricebuster.com/Canon_EOS_1100D_Body_pc.html There is...

Mine do the same but only notice when the music is off, if I'm drowning out the gym music its fine. They are great and at just over a tenner, worth a punt.

your in for a shock :o just checked prices and my 3 lenses are up £350 combined.. As for eBay, read very carefully about the warranty on grey imports..

I think the 1000d is comparable to a 350d/400d if that helps. You'll get great shots from either camera. Your paying for the smaller features that make life easier or more enjoyable. For me ergonomics is huge in a body, which is why a XXd wins hands down, especially if your using heavy lenses...

If you have the funds to throw at this buy the best you can first time around, especially with lenses as they'll last a lifetime and don't lose value in the same way as bodies, infact mine are now worth more than I paid 2-3 years ago.

So what are the odds of a 4Gs or 5G in June/July, I can't be arsed to upgrade from 3Gs to 4G, don't see any benefit. Its been pretty annual so far, don't see why that won't continue?

I've kind of lost touch with the canon range but from what I can remember the 550d is a little bigger, has a better focus system a better screen and a few other nice touches. The fact that its bigger would be enough for me! http://www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/ The official canon refurb eBay...

CyberLink PowerDirector! My first effort, might try and do a DSLR lapse sometime soon.. it was super easy to change or modify the times of all 900 pictures in a few seconds. http://www.vimeo.com/17864192

I think you've done a good job at working on the star effect but you need to try and find a point of focus in the images, something around the grounds like an alley way that leads the eye or some interesting subjects. The last shot has the most potential but you need to try and find some angles...

Think I need to learn lightroom, I've only used it for importing and tagging images, I tend to then use Photoshop for processing..

I'm a little limited on what I can see on my iPhone but from the looks of it you need practice, patience, the right time of day, a helping hand from nature to set the scene, a solid tripod, GND filters and some skill at post processing...

Depends what you need more. I'd get the Zoom first as its more versatile. I'm not sure what has a better MFD (minium focus distance), I don't get the numbers bit I think it'll be the zoom. The 50 is great for portrait, shallow depth of field & low light shooting but I don't remember the MFD...

For that price, I'd get the Canon EF-S 55-250mm f4-5.6 IS or Sigma do some nice budget lenses if 300mm is a must, like the Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 APO DG MACRO, make sure you go for the APO version. The Canon isn't spectacular but for the money it'll shoot at 250mm with very low hand held...

A small aperture.. http://www.macworld.com/article/143076/2009/09/snapshot_starburst.html

Portland Bill, Dorset http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portland_Bill Sensor was a mess, sold the camera now anywhoo..

nice nice, that'd be a massive PITA shooting sports mind ;) Ok, so lets play the game, heres an original and an edit, it was shot in RAW so needed processing & I wasn't going to perch on a rock at 6am for a dull sunrise... :)

Who develops your film, its them post processing! I've only shot a lomo a little so don't get the process, assuming someone else does it before you can scan...

*breathes* No. Developing photos is part of photography, always has and always will be. Why is letting a camera decide your contrast, white balance, saturation etc etc doing it yourself?

If you can live without video and super high ISO I see no reason why you wouldn't love working with a 40D or 50D. I wouldn't go as old as a 30D personally, the 40D has a bigger screen and ISO 3200, which I'm still very happy with after a few years use. The 50D has a much nicer screen AKAIK and...