Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
+1, I'm not really sure whats being achieved that can't be done in the camera.. its probably so subtle that its not worth doing IMO.. maybe its for huge prints? but a 5D + 85L/135L would produce a very similar image.
Thanks guys.. as for the Rhino picture, bit of a forced composition with a road cloned out after :)
Oh & forgot to post my first ever panning picture! Not bad for 1/8th second... :clown:
Can't give a long explanation at the mo but check this.. explains well, apart from aperture the freaking size is a start! IS, USM, cost (especially with the price rises, bad time to be buying)! better glass elements etc...
If your learning and on a tight budget get the 18-55 IS + 55-250 IS combo. Should be a great start for holiday snaps, then add the 50mm f/1.8, teaches you a lot about big aperture lenses.
If the 18-55 IS isn't wide enough on your travels learn to photo stitch before you go. You don't need to...
look on eBay and http://www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/
and f*ck me prices have gone up, you could easily get back what you paid for the 17-55 if you sell it on its own, maybe more than you paid for it? Paid 580 for mine, now sells for 770+, you could start at 600-650 in good condition.
The 400D...
thanks for the help so far!
They are fronts, the shot it taken from inside the wheel arch looking outwards, you can see the top half of the caliper, bottom half is the same.
The bolt at the top came off easily (was 14mm) but doesn't seem to have changed anything, seems like its the big ''allen...
Hi,
Trying to remove the brake calipers for my 1.4 1997 Clio Phase 3 but have got as far as getting the wheel off!
Have tried metric allen keys but no luck, is it an imperial fit or a renault tool of some sort?
Welcome, this one is from Adobe but again lots of American droning, if you can work out how to do it and not need the Illustrator part its very good..
http://av.adobe.com/russellbrown/BrandingSM.mov
Undercut the Canon xxxD range.
Anyway if your after a value for money prime that will AF, look at the new AF-S 35mm f/1.8, looks fantastic.
http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/lens/af/dx/af-s_dx_35mmf_18g/index.htm
http://www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/prod1013.html
If its an EF lens it will work.. which is very likely as the 300V has an EF mount... it won't have a similar field of view though, will be longer and not as wide on the digital body.
Simple concept, your best picture from your crappiest camera... not about the IQ but everything else... something you'd caught with everyday gear..
..start the ball rolling with a shot of Wembley..
Maybe consider getting a refurb and getting a better model for the money..
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Canon-Outlet
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Canon-Outlet-Digital-EOS-30D-Body-Only-Refurbished_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ30033QQihZ012QQitemZ220400365850QQsalenotsupported
30D Body only, well worth...
Would like a decent p&s to accompany my 40D as well and this ticks a fair few boxes, would be hard to decide between this and a G10/IXUS 980 IS or SX10 but I think the optical zoom and price would win.
That last picture is crazy!
thankfully not, prefer welsh valleys to deserts!
No videography section yet but here's one I just knocked together... would love a bullet cam!
http://www.vimeo.com/4232397
Took my rents p&s with me on a trip to Afan, decided a hydration bag was better than several KG's of camera and lenses!
Wish I'd taken more Pano's to be honest, some stunning views to complement some awesome single track downhills...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pete-eos/3456997630/...
Look up the custom function that moves focus to the rear * button, find it really helps for sport.
Manual Mode, aperture f/5.6, Shutter above 1/600, preferably closer to 1/1000, balance the exposure with an appropriate ISO and Ai-Servo focus mode to track the players.
Oh and I find shooting...
ISO 1600, 1/100, aperture wide open so f/5.6, then bring the shutter down until you get a half decent exposure or resort to ISO 3200 if have it or your shutter gets to slow. If that leaves you overexposing bring down the ISO or up the shutter depending on how much you want to freeze the action...
Second body? I'd not bother with the TC (not that I shoot weddings).
It ultimately depends on your style but as a Canon shooter people generally use the 17-55 f/2.8 or 24-70 f/2.8L as their work horses depending on FF or crop. Whilst others choose to shoot with two primes like the 35L + 85L...