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Yep down the back on the engine.

IMO dont bother with better brakes etc till you find ouit what you need often people upgrade and havn't found out how to use what they have fully first so the upgrade isn't realy fully utilised.

IMO renault got caught with the 65 and 80's in the MK2's engine can always make more power there a tolerance the 65 and 80's always were top end of the toleracne so IMo they were forced to recheck after all in some countires tax is based on hp so a low claim helps/

As for DCI RAZ comments that renault developes new ways yep its true its a good way of building an engine range make a low power one then add bits etc its cheap and tested. Any tunner pushing the stock boost on the 65 is getting a bit risky the temps are the killers for that engine intercooler...

Low boost turbo then IMO.

I think there more than 3 but who cares. Anyway I'd chnage the gearbox oil say every 72k when you doing belts etc. Just use good oil. If its not leaking out checking its no use realy. Without intercoolers Ive heard calims of approx 100hp but anything over about 85 is IMO fresh air figures...

200NM the 80 had. Your would I guess have about 230Nm depends who mapped it etc. Torque although torque is Hp just not at an expressed rpm will be higher when mapped is the bigest gain people notice. You could remap an engine and get 0 more top end hp and people would think its a wholy new...

Anyway back on topic. IMO not worth the hastle of trying to get a slower or not much more powerful engine to work. Better offf buying a turbo 172 and swopping engines or turboing your with a low pressure kit if your just after an intercooler and BOV.

Get the car jacked up could be a number of things driveshaft possibly or top mounts.

What system told you the fault code?

You realy need to the ccar on a clip etc to see what the fault is could be throttle pedal or any number of things.

Check its oiled /WD40'd up.

I should have noticed that sorry got French specs on my mind at the moment. As for how to replace it its down the back of the engine there probably some pics. Theres only 2 sensors on the gearbox though.

Renault mechanics best of the lot afteer fixing Renaults everything else is boring and easy. 65 has the jc3 vs the 80 which had the jc5 JC3 is the weeker box used on 1.6 16V and the 1.8 valvers. torque warently limit of 180NM from memoery or 160 I forget which. The JC5 had a limit of 200NM...

Is yours a phase 1 or 2?

The fault will clear after 30 clean starts from memory

Could be any number of bits jack the car up get the wheel off and have a look on both sides of the car.

Check the battery for power.

Yes and noone has tried to as far as I know racers usualy dont bother or use different ECU's anyway

Play in the rack/track rod arms/ball joints possibly easy enought to check.

They never did a 65 in this 68 I think its basically a 65 but with an intercooler. Ha ha otherwise delayeed. 80 with a reamp is the best hp and driving version I recon. the 100 has more power but not a nice drivability and doesn't seem IMO as reliable.

Measure the drain on the battery and start pulling fuses when you see the battery drain stopping thatss the problem circuit. Check the rear boot light thoughn common issue.

You can chnage them idealy helps with small hands but there no need to take the lights out.

The more expensive one better but the fiurst is more than enough if your carful and think what your doing,

Drop me a PM with your details I'll try to remember to send it to you.

I'd just change the whole coolent system for the hastle. To beel it one option is just to unplug the bottom rad hose and let it pour out. Then to bleed fill the system up bleed it with the bleed nipple, then run the engine with the cabin heat on.

Fulty injecortes maybe you realy need to see where its failing in the rev range might help diagnose the issue.

Dont have a go at them there keeping oil manurfactures in business and you plus others in business fixing the leaks plus dealers. They should be praised.

Stearing rod ends I'd bet or the stearing rack itself has wear in it However also check bottom ball joints as well.

Keep it unless it goes wrong and they dont realy. Not worth the haslte removing it plus it can stop the car better than you can anyway and if this is a track car then you'll want that