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i cant believe i just sold a set of cams for you fred hahahahahahaha...........PINT!

Who here is actually willing to pay for a box though? Most people cringe at a rebuild bost of £450, which in the grand scheme of box's and the time they take to build, is nothing. Who here is willing to pay over a grand for a stronger, but still not invincible box? And who here is willing...

Dimentionally the the 1.8 clio, 2.0 williams, megane F7 and newer F4R engine and plentyof other renault engines are the same, although the parts differ in terms of quality and design, Newer ones are better. If you want genuine renault williams ones, go to renault, they will be under £300.

was thinking your looking alot younger si.

its a very good idea as even on a stock engine there are gains in drivability to be had. It'll remove flat spots and dull areas.

Alternatively ben@angel-works.co.uk as i know your abroad and phonecalls cost.

you wont have any problems with any of the cams that are designed to run on standard valve springs and retainers, and a remap always helps.

around the headbolts? The core plugs would of popped first.

Will take 2 -3 weeks or so to grind, but they will be sent off to be independantly tested as i do not have time at the moment. ahmet, you dont have to change springs/retainers for any of the road going spec cams available from anyone. Buy from YS if you must buy online as we do not offer...

Maybe so, but i'm not a marketer and that isnt what my website is about and online sales isnt a feature. Good marketing doesnt make good products.

double past tense....bonus!

that runs very nice and cleanly!

i beg your pardon!!!!!!

dude......shush.........

i would if i wasnt in love with you.

Circled is the bleed screw.

no it doesnt help, i should send you an invoice for all my psychiatric help.

the bleed screw is on the side of the thermostat housing. Its a 10mm head and about 10mm long,

run them on the road a few days before, do the proper bedding in procedure and it'll only take you 30 mins or so.

a new profile is soon to be released to stable the idle even more and the cams will be asymmetrical in design to bump up lower end torque even more and produce more peak power.

yes, i will get back to you on them. None of the paper samples suited our needs, i will have to send you a sample.

It should be fine to use as the switch. And the rpm you switch at will depend on the method used to activate the switch.

i'm a r****d when it comes to introducing people. Besides, i know if i did there would of been a big group hug and possibly some tongue, which i wasnt in the mood for really.

just the metals underneath (heat shields & exhaust etc) have differing thermal expansion coeff's and it just ticks when cooling.

thats a bomb.........

yea, you have to be doing at least 110 for the poop and vomit to make an appearance.

when your mum's shat the passenger seat, vomited on your lap and punched you in the gob for being a penis.

get in line, the gory hole is located at...............oh cant post details here.

On the cambelt there are actually 2 idlers and 1 tensioner. On the aux belt there is an idler below the aircon pump, bend down and have a look. I think that is what edde was talking about as that is the part number which it corresponds to.

with your setup a remap will give next to no gains, so i would wait as stan said.