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Not quite. synth manual box oil still comes in VIS ratings.

The main problem with this engine is the injection/induction system. All you really need to is flow the heads, swap the cams, valve springs, add your downdraught TBs and your away, well over 300bhp. If you want it done...........hmmmm.....PM me

Worth it, debatable, but its cetainly possibly and 120-130 isnt out of your reach. valver TB wont fit. Main restriction on that engine is the injection system and inle manifold.

Where abouts in the engine bay? Your engine uses tappets BTW.

rd, about 1.5 - 2......3 is even too much for the road. If you want to find the optimum youll have to take split tyre temps

Tuning options for the V6 arent commercially abundant. There are hardly any exhaust/filters and piddly crap for it. So when it comes to tuning for cams, headwork, ECU corrections your basically on your own to decide what you want. Not enough V6s out there to make any venture really...

you mean the cold start injector. And how can they alter the oil pressure in your saxo?

i thought he was talking about between the 172 and the CUP, not MK1 and MK2. I found the MK1 more fun it was twitchy as hell and more lively over bumps, the MK2 is solid and progressive. And the extra track doesnt affect handling as such, it only improves feel since you increase the scrub...

or use a funnel with a flexi pipe and it takes 2 mins to fill. trx 75w/80 is whats reccomended, and synthetic box oil really is a must with this box.

nah, suspension wise they are very similar. Spring rates and damping rates arent published though, easy enough to check with a dynomometer though. But i wouldnt expect a massive dfference between cup and 172 dampers/springs. Listed as the same part anyway.

ooops, were talking about drums.....doi to me!

oh, and fuel pressure will have no bearing on a/f ratio when at idle/closed loop. within reason.

Your cams coupled with your CTS and varying MAP values will be playing havoc with the ECUs enrichment startup. BUt it does sound like the 10 sec no lambda search function. Mine hunts heavily when cold, but it doesnt vary the rpm quite like yours. If you havent tried the CTS yet, i would.

yeam arc.

slots straight onto the factory mounts.........well thats the theory.

still dont see all the fuss about this straight line crudd neil......youd fal asleep in anything that doesnt do it in under 10 secs.

its a willy, no high rpms ;)

you can yea......so long as the lock works with your keys.

denotes whether you have a cast ally or pressed tin sump, tin holds a tad more oil. blue = ally

its not 40 years old, and having pushrods has no bearing on the engines capabilities. Most Yanky V8s are pushrods and still going strong, even the NASCARs still use good ol rods. And by cost i mean the amount you would spend getting the 1.7 to make 200bhp. Its design isnt a major problem...

What other welder you gonne use? Oxy-acetalene!!! now that will set it onfire.

Just poke the inlet for the viper behind the front rad grille, you cant see it and there is no detrimental effect of any sort.

Not a fan of the current turbo conversions either, its nothing more than a poor manifold, the rest is and can be sorted in a much more efficient fashion.

MEOW!!!!!! lol

its not really a valver after is it! lol You dont really loose anything, and you can gain alot, but it depends if you can live with a 1.4 turbo being your engine.

No, at no point did i mention any correlation between colour and ignorance. And the coolant doesnt have to be red.

yup, probably potentiometer and speedo sender in that case.

You having any luck with my tyres mate.....or is it too hard? why is this black?

my 172 got 152, so nuegh!