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If they are a bit reluctant to come out, a little spray of WD40 helps and some silicon grease on the o-rings helps to refit (the grease is cheap bought from a scuba shop).

But the leak is tiny, why bother?

How much! Just buy one from GSF plus a spare and save £50.

Worth replacing if advised with OEM ones.

No, you haven't got a Ph1 172, Ph2 if it's a 172 in which case add sensor on the pedal as something to check.

There's a small screw on the throttle body.

Where to start? How old are the steering and suspension parts - what parts have you changed, etc?

After 12 years on the car I changed the old thermostat for a new one. Needle now sits in the middle of the temp gauge and car is feeling a bit better for it. Shows how small changes make a difference. Cost £15 from Renault (comes with a gasket fitted so don't let them flog you it separately).

All sorted. Got my tensioner tool and new belt kit - thanks Dan@519. My current belt wasn't on right. 'Tis now.

There were none available from Renault last time I asked.

To fit a genuine Renault clutch cable (and just don't even bother trying this if it isn't genuine) this is what I do: pull back the soundproofing, look very carefully at where the existing cable is fitted to the bulkhead, remove cable at the clutch, remove cable from the pedal (I used a small...

Thanks folks.

I got one from laser - the hex bit doesn't fit (T50 I think, too large)!

I spotted some in Hobby Craft - marble effect! Big range and for use on metal.

Here's a photo of my aux belt showing markings on it where it rubs between the tensioner and the pulley. Is is because the is pulley fooked?

Plus you need to drain the gearbox and refill after fitting the new shaft.

New is £130 ish for the full set (the right parts!), ask Tom at Wests Renault via the Traders section. Can be bought for £100 second hand, but buyer beware of bent parts!

If it's 155 HP ATF that's not far off normal power. Normal is just above mid 160 so it's only 5 or 6% ish down on power. Modifications add almost zero extra power overall especially matched inlets (depends what the finish was before the work).

You don't need to whack anything. Just remove the caliper, turn the steering wheel, big spray with some oil, breaker bar on and just twist the pinch bolt head to get some oil round the shaft, nut back on the other end and a gentle tap, tap to release it. Mine were 12 years old. Lemforder is the...

Pro-speed, Cardiff. Had these on my 172 Ph1 and Subaru Impreza. The owner is Charlie and he will make it as quiet or loud as required.

Ok, some good replies to my OP, great info here and hopefully some useful guidance to fellow CS members. My conclusion is that it's not worth it for my daily car and for the number of airfield time trials I do/did. I have owned my Ph1 for about seven years and done my share of SW Area airfield...

I may join up with you to compare notes. I'm in Chippenham so a nice Gloucs countryside ride!

Agree to silicon - I use Loctite's high temp copper coloured stuff (they even sell it in Halfords). The more prep you do to clean it before use the longer it seems to last. Mine usually lasts for six months with plenty of hammer down!

Ok, so it's looking like good gains of about 15% are achievable with 438s on 1*2s. I'm tempted, but I'm not going down the mythical road of matched inlets again (waste of £50 in fuel driving to the Flat Lands to give a Man called Ben and his angels some money for no noticable gain). So is there...

Mine's done 175k (second engine though as first one had lost @5% power by 165k). You should expect to parts to wear so factor that in your budget, for example I'm now on my second set for suspension and about fourth set of brake discs.

It didn't work on my Ph1 - F and R Cup shocks and Eibachs. Squeeled like a 70s American car going round corners. Took lots of effort to get the alignment right (at Protyre) and just never felt v.good. Eventually changed it all back to standard shocks and 182 Cup springs and it felt so much...

I take out the 30 amp fuse if I'm going to depressurise the fuel system so I thought it controls the fuel pump.

Cheers. Just wish I knew the way it had gone round! It's a 165000 mile engine that's down on compression and made below 160 hp and below 140 lb/ft at Surrey RR so a little old on its legs. I'm just messing with it before I work on the better engine. The rocker cover got damaged exposing a cam so...

Thanks for confirming this.

If I move it off TDC it should turn easier?