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I hope the sub frame bolts aren't badly rusted, mine look bad so I've done this instead by taking the engine out (it makes it a breeze to get those two 10mm heat shield bolts out when sat on the subframe).
Mine has three wires to it and they're white, brown and purple. The sensor is behind the thermostat housing (simple to tell if you're looking at the right sensor, let the car cool down completely and unscrew it then if coolant comes out it's the right one).
I had mine rebuilt by a specialist, now I wish I'd gone to Agency Transmissions. I've heard some mixed reports about Agency, fair or otherwise. I either need to learn how to do it myself (I have a spare one for practice) or find somewhere with a solid reputation.
Where that strap is resting on the support bracket there is a gap, a slot. Fit one end in there. It then wraps round and clips on underneath the air box in a similar position to the clipping point on top. Your air box will be pulled parallel to that bracket. You need to get rid of that ugly tube...
The easy way to depressurize the fuel system is to take out the 30 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box and crank the engine a few times. You need to use a deep socket to remove the nuts inside the fuel rail guard. Remove the 2, 10mm nuts off the injector rail and spray WD40 or similar...
Great. Can you think about a Samco hose set group buy then please. It may be worthwhile trying to get a group buy for sets of injectors and coils given the age of many of the cars on CS.
I will keep an eye out for the clutch prices. No need to post, I'm in Chippenham too. Do the Samco hoses fit 172 Ph1's (I thought the Samco site say they don't?).
Cheers and good luck with the sales.
I do this (for an engine removal) but I get a slight concern about damaging the pipe. Next time I think I'll just take it off so it's out of the way. PAS fluid is cheap enough any way.
Nice cars. I decided to buy spangly new headlights for my Ph1 given the price, and the faff of refurbishing with less than brilliant results. Hopefully you have no rust developing on the inside side panels (if you haven't done so yet, remove the rear inside panel and take a look where the rear...
Sorry it isn't easy as such, but this will depend on your ability. I take the engine out, many others do it by dropping the subframe and there's one person who can do it in situ though I don't know how he does it. If you can't do it take it to one of the trusted specialists on here although it...
No it's three bolts on the top cover. Mine did that and a helicoil didn't work (tried it twice!). Get a replacement cover from a scrap yard (the part with the three tapped holes!). I have a spare knackered engine for stuff like this and it comes in real handy.
You didn't answer the question of whether or not it's a standard exhaust and cat. If it's not standard (like mine) then like me you'll struggle to get a good fit. I run out of threads on the bolts before it's completely sealed, but I don't mind the noise really. When you say it all fitted nice...
I'm fed up with taking the CD changer out and taking it all apart to put the worm gear drive back into the right position (that's what stops the CDs from loading up, easy fix but mine must be worn to much after 15 years of use. So is there a direct replacement 6 CD changer I can buy - common...
See page 07-03 in the attached, going off the cuff isn't a good way to do things. I undo the alternator top bolt, move the alternator forward a little and put the belt back on that pulley last - then push it back in place and refit the bolt. In addition to using a tensioning tool I hold the...
It depends where it's broken. Check the pipe first, where it passes over the gearbox is one area to check (I suspect it will be leaking close to the lower gearbox mount at the front of the engine - to see it better remove the air filter box etc, it's below there). On one track day I lost a...