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Won't be the body unplugged, car will idle normally(ish) with the body unplugged. Certainly won't do 3krpm anyway. Yep, because the ECU can't see the throttle pedal.

Throttle pedal isn't plugged in or isn't being seen by the ecu. This is standard behaviour with the pedal disconnected. Fault light(s) on as well i'm guessing?

Re: Poll: 172 Oil light going out after 2 sec with ignition on but engine not running Nope as long as the level sensor thinks theres oil in the thing it'll go out until starting.

Sounds about right.

Front ones are behind the disc on the front of the hub. Rear ones are on the back side mounted to look at the trigger ring on the back of the disc. Just follow the wires you won't go far wrong.

I'd go with ignition related here all day long. Either plugs or a weak coil pack.

Where abouts are you? Clip ready and waiting for a small fee ;).

Whaaaaaaaat? ;)

Is it threaded? If not then yes for the F4P/R.

None that shouldn't be missing on purpose. They are not connected to the rear beam from the factory, its pre set as said previously.

£1.07+vat

Ah getcha, although i'm always of the opinion that a little extra work to save something being far less awkward is work worth doing. Sod struggling with things.

You don't loose the box oil doing the drivers side shaft though. Or do you mean messy due to having to drop the wishbone out the hub etc to the get shaft out in the first place?

If they are 77 03 033 155 then he's ordered the right ones.

Don't bother imo.

Yes it does.

Its just a normal rear bias valve that they fix to a set position and don't fit the arm to at the factory. Shouldn't really be touched but some of them have had the arm fitted in error by garages trying to get the rear efficiency up. Tieing the valve closed simulates having weight in the back...

Pedal probably. Could do with clip really thats a bit vague, doesn't say whether its the pedal signal or the readback from the body. Noise from the throttle with the ignition on is totally normal.

Nope something wrong, usually the pump. Awkward bleeder to change. Does it completely quiet down when it warms up?

Don't worry about the resistor yet, the interior fan lives under the drivers side skuttle panel with the cabin filter etc. Get it off and test the supply to the fan plug on the various fan settings, if you're getting a varying voltage there then its 99% the fan. You could test the resistance of...

Exclusive is a Ph1 so different setup.

1. Get a regulator complete and just swap it. 2. Probably the fan as the resistor is shorted out on full speed, can test with a multimeter at the fan terminals to prove. 3. Minefield. Check the antenna first, i'd need to look other things up.

Mk1 Megane

Did you even sand them down at all? I can see the texture still on them from here.

Diesel specialist is the best idea I think.

How weird, one to tell the grandkids.

Found the Moytl 75w80 stuff to be pretty decent, used to use the castrol epx but I believe its been discontinued now.

? I'm no diesel expert but I believe they leak back to tank by design to cool the injectors.

Clean the sender connections up under the rear bench. Bet the gauge is still reading fine yes?

150+