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bent your trailing arm or wheel.

your engine isnt connected to the ECU anymore, so its not getting fueling information, just the speed and distance. I would assume but at best a guess.

no

Wilder cams will run sh*t with the OE management principals and the plenham chanber....but junk it all and itll run fin with wilder cams, abiet with a higer RPM needed to sustain a smooth idle. cams specs are. inlet 234 degduration, but 1 lobe opens 4 deg after the other. phase advance is...

how big....crescnet shaped or shperical? The cutouts are there to prevent ANY contact between piston and valve. If its not too big there is no problem.

are you asking if they will fit?

not hard no........ a fair bit to do, but not hard. The most complicated parts is making sure your timing is spot on and which method you decide to use.

lost a bit on exactly what you want to know. I dont know of any kit as such available....but each part is available fine.

77 00 801 056 HOSE HD/HEATER CL 25.40 ---3 x 1 From Ren

one in the cylinder head, one in the thermostat housing.

i have no idea why they dephase it. But since your altering timing, not profile its hard to say without trying. You have the same amount of time with the valve open, the same lift everything. So opening it earlier will see it close earlier.

araldite and ducktape.

early la!!!! my native lingo ah ma! where are you from eh! An A/F ratio of 12-13 is good, any higher and you wont be making as much power as you can from a sungle burn. 1. prety good, but not perfect 2. yes 3. yes no long term damage or damage at all from modified std boxes. the...

LOOK AT THE SIZE OF THOSE SEATS!!!!! you really really dont need them that big lol... and the shrouding on the corners....well not too bad. IN reality you should not be going over the lift and valve size that you need to make the power you want. i.e. lifting the valve higher than it needs...

i think the leccy kits cut the ignition when you dip the clutch so its not really full throttle, just lazy shift.

Is this what your looking for? http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/full/1075269346__DS.jpg

a million times and its relaively easy with it OFF the car. It does help reduce temps though. But itsjsut as easy and jsut as cheap to get modern ceramic coatings. The states are particuarly good with some coatings still allowing you to jsut touch the manifold after.

spray pattern isnt really affected, the pintle caps make the difference. IIRC the F3Ps ran a 3.5 bar regulator.

you can mix them yes.

your not blowing boost past the ICV or have a leak a one of the manifold joints are you?

I have had a 172 run 8000rpm or over a year no problems.....but you wont be making any power up there, its falls off cam quite rapidly the 172 and its far more useful for jsut holding a gear round a corner. A chip will allow you to run 8000rpm and should provide the appropriate extra fueling.

not sure of any willy specific haynes.... anyway. TO drain the box get under it, youll see a plastic cover over the selector linkage, take that off. UNder it is the drain plug for the box....drain if you wish as you only need under 4 ltrs to fill it up and new oil wont go amiss and might solve...

Any sealed induction kit is really as good as another, so long as the filter element isnt restrictive, too small or like the viper, prone to tearing when dry. Your only aiming to really reduce induction temps from the 60-80 deg summer temps to as close to ambient as possible, which is rougly...

STROKE OF GENIUS!

ho far down the bore.....or as jay said...on teh piston?

seconded but no point on the std cams.

I would personally move the whole engine aside by undoing the nearside hub and pushing the whole lot (less engine mounts) to the nearside of the engine bay. Gives you a few inches to work with. With that method though, you only have to undo the loom and fuel rail to get the engine out.

just say they are std as your running std sizes, calipers and pads.

its not torque steer. The drive train is almost symetrical and equal length, its jsut reastions to rd surface and cambers.