Search results

Seems like an expensive option for a road car.

looks in enough to me they can be a pain to seat properly. I certainly wouldnt say thats the reason for a miss fire as both my middle injectors look like that and my car runs fine.

Im sure someone will answer your question but if you put your reg number into eurocarparts website it will show you a list of bits suitable for your car.

BTC replaces local currency.. Nice! https://twitter.com/Bitcoinbeach?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw%7Ctwcamp%5Etweetembed%7Ctwterm%5E1254906193199468546&ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Fbitcoinist.com%2Fbitcoin-is-replacing-the-el-salvador-economy-for-the-unbanked%2F

Im thinking of getting something along these lines when i get back to work. Seems to have most bases covered. https://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/mig-welder-inverter-with-mma-dc-tig-240v-250a/

They'll take 800bhp if you give them forged rods and uprate the valve springs. Crazy motors, you can get them to 330bhp naturally aspirated. I cant think of a better 4 cylinder engine i'd love to have even a standard one in the clio.

I dont think our lives will ever be the same again! (this time next year) https://coinmarketcap.com/halving/bitcoin/

Setup an account with Binance.com and from there you can buy and hold or trade with bitcoin.

Does it cost much money in gas to run a mig or tig?

If the belt was done 9 years ago it will need changing based on age not mileage. Cambelt is 5 years or 72000 miles. If you're not planning on keeping it i wouldnt bother with the cambelt but it needs doing if you are.

Cambelt isn’t too tricky on the Cup’s. I researched the process on here and there was more than enough information to give me the confidence to give it a go. Might as well pull the engine and do the clutch at the same time 👍

No engine mount wont give those issues. I'd say the most likely culprit is a worn bottom end ball joint.

Fitted an oil temp sensor. Then got a chance to test my 0-60 on the dragy. Totally standard just stripped interior and timed to perfection.

Be careful not to over tighten the bolts holding the manifold in place.

Cup drive shafts don't have the centre bearing on the driver side shaft.

Didnt fully read your post!! You could add a second nut. That way it would clamp the one behind it.

Mine looks exactly the same. I ended up bending that nut/bracket bit over with some pliers and pinched whats left of the ecu bracket. Not the prettiest solution but works well enough.

Same thing happened to me. Not fun.

That 10 second pass was just an A to B run

Made a set of pedal to replace my current ones with extra bits to aid left foot braking.

Nearly in the 8's on a questionably prepped surface.

Never knew the Cup ran a cable throttle body! Would love one of those.

https://historicdb.fia.com/sites/default/files/car_attachment/1486828801/homologation_form_number_5659_group_a.pdf

Pretty sure Its a gear selector rod. Dont buy a short shift one would be my advice. https://cliosport.net/threads/gear-selector-rod-help.820510/

I used this kit to refurb m rear calipers. Didnt need half of the stuff but its well worth having it just incase. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-CLIO-SPORT-2000-06-REAR-L-R-Brake-Caliper-Repair-Kit-Pistons-BRKP61-/273961041003?hash=item3fc959bc6b Sliders sold serprately if they are needed...

I recently borrowed my brothers 360bhp k04'd Mk5 golf gti for a couple of months. Felt like a time machine compared to the clio. When i got back into the clio it felt pedal powered by comparison.. it was only when i had it near the end of 3rd gear in the twisties that i realised its not that...

I was thinking break cleaner..

Stupid suggestion but if its clutch sticking could you spray something into the inspection hole on the bell housing in a hope to free it up?

A chisel worked for me when i did mine.

Did this ever get fixed?