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My 1.2 sounds better with a cone filter but it's a 16v and I've done some injection tuning as its my practice model. Can't say it will sound a dream but it will sound better than the usual flat high sounds you're probably used to.
Don't spend over £40 on it. Not worth it imo
The 60mm centre bore not worth the extra money. Structurally, if it doesn't have the extended hub lip, it's not going to strain the bolts. You might as well buy the annoying little ripspeed shims you see in halfords chav ailse. As opposed to spending £10 extra for easier fitment
There's plenty of adjustable shocks to go with lowering springs but together they'd add up to at least 250-350.
With that in mind would it be more cost effective to you to get some coilovers. The extra £150-200 is worth it if you're tracking it
You won't find 5mm hubcentrics. Your standard bolts still reach with plenty of thread so there's no need for the extra support. The extra hub lip is for +10mm spacers. As for the camber shims I'd try before e buying. Get solid proof that they work with your set up before asking someone who's...
Last week on autotrader there was a 62k 182 trophy with all belts done going for £3k.
A 197 of the same quality would go for about £7-8k
personally is go for a 182 purely because it's one of the last hot hatch models to actually be the size of a hot hatch. (As opposed to a smaller family car)
I use dot fluid. As is usual with most cars. And it's well known for stripping or distorting paint. What are you using?
No you don't but it's good to get fresh fluid all round for diagnostic purposes.
Other way around is safest. Depending on the car and fluid delivery, if you bleed the...
Bleed and drain the brake fluid completely before you take the caliper off. Then you can replace the hose without any risk of fluid taking off the paint on the chassis. You don't need to keep the cap on for this.
Fit the new caliper with the new hose connected. Bleed the brakes in this order...
Insurance companies have been writing off cars for tiny little things for years. Could be because the car was rolled. Could be because the word c@nt was Keyed into the side of it. Find out why it was written off before you start advertising as cat d.
Nothing worse than advertising as written...
H back when I was green, halfords charged me £144 for a new head lamp. Apparently my headlight had a bad light image out put and the replacement headlight that I provided with bulbs was coincidently putting out a bad light image.(and they charged me £40 to fit it).
When I got home i refitted...
If wasn't originally a black gold then that's one nightmare you can cross off the list lol.
But seriously, previous owners isn't really a bad thing. The undeclared white paint IS. I'd do a full and thorough inspection on a white or non standard colour mk2
If you're sure its confined to the relays try replacing them one by one and test firing each of them. my bet is one of them has been ruined by the weather or heat internally. When you get it running again check for excessive electrical heat in the box
May be wrong here but I think I recognise the reg. Dig through the paperwork and see if it used to be a black gold and if it had damage to the rear &passengers side.
1.2 don't have a big market for coilovers but these are the cheapest I can find
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=245891
Always go coilovers if you can afford it. But be careful with lowering springs. They're cheap but can ruin your ride quality.
In answer to your question. Yes it probably suits white better because of ge contrast. If it's just paint your looking to do id stick to the White/black mix
I ended up machining my own spacers after using H&R spacers for several years. But for longer bolts id go for a proven seller like h&r themselves, performancealloys.com or larkspeed.
For 15mm spacers longer bolts will be fine. I've got 20mm on long bolts atm. You only want bolt to hub spacers...